How did you get out the old ones and how did you get the new ones in?

I have not done it myself but briefly looked into it. I believe your old one mounts need pressed out and new ones pressed in. If you cant do it yourself you may be able to just remove the mounts and take them to a shop with a press and pay them to swap them out then you could re install them. Maybe someone who has done this can chime in.

I did this about a year or more ago, but if you wanna save a few bucks (provided your pretty handy) you can remove the old worn out rubber from the steel part of the mount yourself by burning/cutting/mutilating it. Once you get the majority of the rubber out you can use a dremel or hacksaw to cut out the steel sleeve that used to contain the rubber and bolt sleeve. Just make sure not to cut the part of the mount you need.

Once your done with this I took the energy bushings along with the whole engine cradle to the machine shop and had them press them in

oh btw... you don't have the electronic motor mount do you?

No, I have a MT. I think I will cut them out and just have someone push them in. Now to just re-seat this damn CV joint...pulled it out too far while changing the lower ball joint and now it doesn't want to go back in.

That sucks, I actually did the same thing. You can pull it apart and re-seat it and re-grease it, but I eventually had to replace mine. I prolly didn't read up enough and re-seat it correctly.

Better luck to you tho

I had mine pressed out and new pressed in, and installed with the Subframe Bushings also, got one out was a ****ing pain, so just took to my Mechanic and like 10 minutes both were ready .....

Man why does everyone keep pressing the ES MM in? Cut them in half and insert the bolt bushing and call it the day!!!!

This doesn't seem like such a bad idea actually...

Thanks, yeah I just took the boot off; the little ***** slid down and that's why it wouldn't go back in, so just pushed them up and it slid right in.

The only problem I see with that is over time they might start to come apart leaving a void in the middle of the mount. May not be quite as solid that way.

If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those

ES doesn't make sidemounts, but knight_yyz and red lion racing make polyurethane (among other materials) side mounts for our cars.

well ****, wish I woulda known that lol

Oh well, polyfill should work just fine for me. Thanks for the future reference tho!

I just bought some bushings (Side/trans) from Red Lion. Getting them hopefully in 2 weeks due to back-order

I bought the side/trans mounts from Maxima_Joe, which were shipped straight to Red Lion. Red Lion presses the bushings into the mounts for free (with the purchase of his bushings of course). Total came about $145 shipped (for the trans/side mounts). Pretty cheap if you ask me. Now I just remove the old mounts and bolt-in the new ones. Less hassle to find a shop to press them in. Just my 2 cents.

Oh and OP, Maxima_Joe sells the ES bushing mounts for the front and rear for $200 shipped. (Bushings already pressed into the mounts)

That's great it you have money, but I'm in college so I don't lol

$25 polyfill ftw

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ontent=6012418

I'm a college student to

I filled my motor mounts in my 00 Civic hatch with 3m window weld. They did the trick alright they were so stiff they vibrated my dash. Of course thats to be expected since oem motor mounts are meant to absorb vibration. But for under $20 you cant beat it if i didnt have to drive mine everyday id just fill them.

Thats why I didn't mound up the window weld, I just kinda filled in the gaps a bit and made it even on both sides. That and if it is way too much vibration I can always drill a couple holes into my window weld but not through the stock rubber

You evidently haven't had English yet.

^ haha

I burned mine in a old BBQ grill. Used to hacksaw to cut the metal ring inside and then put grease on the Ed mounts and pushed them in myself with just my hands. Worked great for the 6 months I drove it before I sold the car

How ?????It has nowhere to go in between the bracket....just like your shockeye bushings or ES LCA bushings pivot....

I see what you did there

So these ES LCA mounts are built the same way 2 halves and a bushings....So they're dangerous as hell according to your comments right?

Can somebody double check if I got this right? I'm going to do this myself and I'm going to try to hack the old motor mounts out. One thing I'm not clear on is which metal ring/sleeve needs to be removed? I'm planning on putting in some ES inserts. Should I hack the metal ring/sleeve marked with the yellow arrow in the picture below?

There are three layers shown in your photo. You need the cut through both inner layers. I used a hacksaw from the insideout and hammered a screwdriver between the layers to loosen the inners. I was then able to put the old bushing out by hand.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

Oh man, what a job. I did this about 7 years ago and it was so much work and didn't make much difference except to make the car vibrate a little bit more. Maybe there was some benefit, but even if so it's probably the lowest yield mod I've ever done.

I did mine a couple months ago. Amazing difference. I have a couple pics up on the .org of my doing it. I did it all myself. You have to cut through everything but the outer metal layer. After I burned/cut out the rubber and plastic (one of the mounts has a metal bar as well you will need to cut through). The inner metal ring must be cut our with a hacksaw. One its cut, use a flathead to pry it out. It actually pops out pretty easily once its cut.

For putting the new ones in. I trimmed the outer ring slightly, lubed it with some wheel bearing grease, and pushed it in. ( I know, thats what she said)
No press required.

From what I heard the underdrive pulley is the lowest yielding mod

This mod helps put the power to the ground no doubt!!!!

I did the poly fill with a lower priced 3M windshield adhesive, not "window weld". Absolutely pleased with the solid feel and positive shifting.

However you do it, poly mounts are definitely an essential mod IMO.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

Glad you guys have found it to be worthwhile. I noticed a difference right away, and I suppose I still do even though it soon seemed to loosen up: when I let off the gas in gear, there used to be a lot of play in the shifter--could feel the engine moving through the shifter. For a few days after I installed ES motor mounts the play was gone, but then it seemed to come back. In the absence of quantitative data showing more power going to the wheels, it's just a "feel" thing, and the feel difference to me is not worth what I put into it.

My car is N/A; if you're boosted or race your car then I would agree that this is a good mod, as are other things like traction bars.

Not to rant, but I don't get this,
People here seem to be OK with spending tons on lip kits, headlights and other goodies, but people keep bringing up how much cheaper Window weld is over the $79 ES ones. With the added down time required to do the poly fill ones, it seems to much easier just to press them in. Granted, one could get an extra set of mounts from the junkyard so no downtime is required. Just wanted to point out something I noticed when I was doing research on doing my mounts.
End of rant

I don't spend money on frivolous things like "lip kits, headlights, and another goodies", I simply maintain my car and drive it. In my case I had wrecking yard mounts and a serious shortage of funds.

I'm glad you can afford es, and are able to judge everyone else.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

you can purchase some $20 junkyard mounts and burnout the rubber mounts, remove the sleeve and install yourself some cheap ES mounts...Cutting the in half makes them even easier to install! They aren't expensive!

I'm not going to start a pissing match over this. Its a matter of opinion in which we disagree.

ES mounts - $79 + 5 hours of work, drive car same day
Window Weld - $35-$55 + 5 hours of work + weeks to let it cure or trip to junkyard to pick up extra set

I don't get the big advantage to doing it yourself

Mounts pressed in as easy as 1,2,3!

Lube mount and ES insert.
Jack car up and place under tire.
Lower jack using weight of car to press them in.

Jsutter, where were you two months ago? That is an awesome idea!! I used a sledge after my small press broke. I might use that idea to remove my LCA bushings

There is no pissing match. I don't have the disposable money you have. I DIY'd for a total of $32.00 and my car was on the ramps for less than an hour. I don't give a rats @$$ about your opinion, just stating fact. You can also take your disagree and your 149 posts, and keep it to yourself.

Don't bother responding to me, as you are now blocked. I hate distractions caused by members with nothing intelligent or constructive to contribute.

I see I struck a nerve

I don't care what you have on your car, I just want to know why?

Usually people will use an aftermarket product rather than make their own, unless there is an advantage to making it yourself. Wondering what it is besides the $$$
Thats all