Installing Energy Suspension Motor Mounts
#2
I have not done it myself but briefly looked into it. I believe your old one mounts need pressed out and new ones pressed in. If you cant do it yourself you may be able to just remove the mounts and take them to a shop with a press and pay them to swap them out then you could re install them. Maybe someone who has done this can chime in.
#3
I have not done it myself but briefly looked into it. I believe your old one mounts need pressed out and new ones pressed in. If you cant do it yourself you may be able to just remove the mounts and take them to a shop with a press and pay them to swap them out then you could re install them. Maybe someone who has done this can chime in.
Once your done with this I took the energy bushings along with the whole engine cradle to the machine shop and had them press them in
oh btw... you don't have the electronic motor mount do you?
#4
No, I have a MT. I think I will cut them out and just have someone push them in. Now to just re-seat this damn CV joint...pulled it out too far while changing the lower ball joint and now it doesn't want to go back in.
#5
Better luck to you tho
#6
I had mine pressed out and new pressed in, and installed with the Subframe Bushings also, got one out was a ****ing pain, so just took to my Mechanic and like 10 minutes both were ready .....
#9
Thanks, yeah I just took the boot off; the little ***** slid down and that's why it wouldn't go back in, so just pushed them up and it slid right in.
#10
If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those
#11
The only problem I see with that is over time they might start to come apart leaving a void in the middle of the mount. May not be quite as solid that way.
If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those
If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those
#13
I bought the side/trans mounts from Maxima_Joe, which were shipped straight to Red Lion. Red Lion presses the bushings into the mounts for free (with the purchase of his bushings of course). Total came about $145 shipped (for the trans/side mounts). Pretty cheap if you ask me. Now I just remove the old mounts and bolt-in the new ones. Less hassle to find a shop to press them in. Just my 2 cents.
Oh and OP, Maxima_Joe sells the ES bushing mounts for the front and rear for $200 shipped. (Bushings already pressed into the mounts)
#14
That's great it you have money, but I'm in college so I don't lol
$25 polyfill ftw
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ontent=6012418
$25 polyfill ftw
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ontent=6012418
#15
That's great it you have money, but I'm in college so I don't lol
$25 polyfill ftw
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ontent=6012418
$25 polyfill ftw
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ontent=6012418
I'm a college student to
#16
I filled my motor mounts in my 00 Civic hatch with 3m window weld. They did the trick alright they were so stiff they vibrated my dash. Of course thats to be expected since oem motor mounts are meant to absorb vibration. But for under $20 you cant beat it if i didnt have to drive mine everyday id just fill them.
#17
I filled my motor mounts in my 00 Civic hatch with 3m window weld. They did the trick alright they were so stiff they vibrated my dash. Of course thats to be expected since oem motor mounts are meant to absorb vibration. But for under $20 you cant beat it if i didnt have to drive mine everyday id just fill them.
#19
^ haha
I burned mine in a old BBQ grill. Used to hacksaw to cut the metal ring inside and then put grease on the Ed mounts and pushed them in myself with just my hands. Worked great for the 6 months I drove it before I sold the car
I burned mine in a old BBQ grill. Used to hacksaw to cut the metal ring inside and then put grease on the Ed mounts and pushed them in myself with just my hands. Worked great for the 6 months I drove it before I sold the car
#20
The only problem I see with that is over time they might start to come apart leaving a void in the middle of the mount. May not be quite as solid that way.
If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those
If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those
#22
The only problem I see with that is over time they might start to come apart leaving a void in the middle of the mount. May not be quite as solid that way.
If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those
If you really wanna go easy on yourself you could just polyfill them (thats what I'm doing to my side MM and tranny mount since energy doesn't make a direct fit for those
#23
Can somebody double check if I got this right? I'm going to do this myself and I'm going to try to hack the old motor mounts out. One thing I'm not clear on is which metal ring/sleeve needs to be removed? I'm planning on putting in some ES inserts. Should I hack the metal ring/sleeve marked with the yellow arrow in the picture below?
#24
There are three layers shown in your photo. You need the cut through both inner layers. I used a hacksaw from the insideout and hammered a screwdriver between the layers to loosen the inners. I was then able to put the old bushing out by hand.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
#25
Oh man, what a job. I did this about 7 years ago and it was so much work and didn't make much difference except to make the car vibrate a little bit more. Maybe there was some benefit, but even if so it's probably the lowest yield mod I've ever done.
#26
I did mine a couple months ago. Amazing difference. I have a couple pics up on the .org of my doing it. I did it all myself. You have to cut through everything but the outer metal layer. After I burned/cut out the rubber and plastic (one of the mounts has a metal bar as well you will need to cut through). The inner metal ring must be cut our with a hacksaw. One its cut, use a flathead to pry it out. It actually pops out pretty easily once its cut.
For putting the new ones in. I trimmed the outer ring slightly, lubed it with some wheel bearing grease, and pushed it in. ( I know, thats what she said)
No press required.
From what I heard the underdrive pulley is the lowest yielding mod
For putting the new ones in. I trimmed the outer ring slightly, lubed it with some wheel bearing grease, and pushed it in. ( I know, thats what she said)
No press required.
From what I heard the underdrive pulley is the lowest yielding mod
#28
I did the poly fill with a lower priced 3M windshield adhesive, not "window weld". Absolutely pleased with the solid feel and positive shifting.
However you do it, poly mounts are definitely an essential mod IMO.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
However you do it, poly mounts are definitely an essential mod IMO.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
#29
Glad you guys have found it to be worthwhile. I noticed a difference right away, and I suppose I still do even though it soon seemed to loosen up: when I let off the gas in gear, there used to be a lot of play in the shifter--could feel the engine moving through the shifter. For a few days after I installed ES motor mounts the play was gone, but then it seemed to come back. In the absence of quantitative data showing more power going to the wheels, it's just a "feel" thing, and the feel difference to me is not worth what I put into it.
My car is N/A; if you're boosted or race your car then I would agree that this is a good mod, as are other things like traction bars.
My car is N/A; if you're boosted or race your car then I would agree that this is a good mod, as are other things like traction bars.
#30
People here seem to be OK with spending tons on lip kits, headlights and other goodies, but people keep bringing up how much cheaper Window weld is over the $79 ES ones. With the added down time required to do the poly fill ones, it seems to much easier just to press them in. Granted, one could get an extra set of mounts from the junkyard so no downtime is required. Just wanted to point out something I noticed when I was doing research on doing my mounts.
End of rant
#31
Not to rant, but I don't get this,
People here seem to be OK with spending tons on lip kits, headlights and other goodies, but people keep bringing up how much cheaper Window weld is over the $79 ES ones. With the added down time required to do the poly fill ones, it seems to much easier just to press them in. Granted, one could get an extra set of mounts from the junkyard so no downtime is required. Just wanted to point out something I noticed when I was doing research on doing my mounts.
End of rant
I'm glad you can afford es, and are able to judge everyone else.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Last edited by asand1; 12-29-2014 at 01:19 PM.
#32
you can purchase some $20 junkyard mounts and burnout the rubber mounts, remove the sleeve and install yourself some cheap ES mounts...Cutting the in half makes them even easier to install! They aren't expensive!
#33
I'm not going to start a pissing match over this. Its a matter of opinion in which we disagree.
ES mounts - $79 + 5 hours of work, drive car same day
Window Weld - $35-$55 + 5 hours of work + weeks to let it cure or trip to junkyard to pick up extra set
I don't get the big advantage to doing it yourself
ES mounts - $79 + 5 hours of work, drive car same day
Window Weld - $35-$55 + 5 hours of work + weeks to let it cure or trip to junkyard to pick up extra set
I don't get the big advantage to doing it yourself
#36
I'm not going to start a pissing match over this. Its a matter of opinion in which we disagree.
ES mounts - $79 + 5 hours of work, drive car same day
Window Weld - $35-$55 + 5 hours of work + weeks to let it cure or trip to junkyard to pick up extra set
I don't get the big advantage to doing it yourself
ES mounts - $79 + 5 hours of work, drive car same day
Window Weld - $35-$55 + 5 hours of work + weeks to let it cure or trip to junkyard to pick up extra set
I don't get the big advantage to doing it yourself
Don't bother responding to me, as you are now blocked. I hate distractions caused by members with nothing intelligent or constructive to contribute.
Last edited by asand1; 01-02-2015 at 12:31 AM.
#37
I see I struck a nerve
I don't care what you have on your car, I just want to know why?
Usually people will use an aftermarket product rather than make their own, unless there is an advantage to making it yourself. Wondering what it is besides the $$$
Thats all
I don't care what you have on your car, I just want to know why?
Usually people will use an aftermarket product rather than make their own, unless there is an advantage to making it yourself. Wondering what it is besides the $$$
Thats all
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