trommel

This problem goes back months but I think I'm getting closer to a solution. Basically when I bought this 97 Maxima it's harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) had come apart and damaged the crankshaft position sensor (REF) below it. It rubbed through the outer casing, exposing the copper core beneath it. When I tested it with an ohm meter it indicated an open circuit with no conductivity between the two prongs.

Originally the car would eventually start after a long crank....The service manual indicated that with a bad CPS (REF) the engine needed to go through two complete revolutions before the 2nd crank sensor (POS) would read it and start the engine. This is exactly how it behaved and the other CPS (POS) tested out fine.

Ironically after buying a new CPS (REF) from Autozone the car would then intermittently either start right up or go through long cranking which now included misfiring which, over time, eventually fouled the plugs.

Thinking maybe I bought a defective part from Autozone (even though resistance values were correct) I then went to a local junkyard and took a factory original off the same year car. This sensor behaved the same way as the one from Autozone.

As soon as I re-installed the original damaged sensor the car would go back to starting after one long crank but never misfire in the process!

I also heard that the problem may be bad engine grounds between the mating surface of the engine and transmission so I added a jumper ground wire to bridge the engine and trans. I cleaned all other engine ground connections from the battery and also the starter. I even ran a ground wire directly from the battery to the 10 mm bolt on the CPS think that might help but none of this made a difference.

I just don't understand why with new, seemingly good crank sensors, I get intermittent perfect starts (1 or 2 seconds) and horrible long starting (with misfires) while with the bad sensor there are no misfires but just one long crank to start it. I'm now wondering if (1) the car's computer (ECM) could be defective, (2) if I still have an engine ground problem or (3) if I simply had the misfortune of buying two bad crank sensors (REF).

If anyone has a suggestion I would greatly appreciate it, since I've been trying to figure this one out for months, spending many hours going through all related threads.

andrewmac

iTrader: (2)

Have you tested the harness? When I was going through all my sensors and testing them I did resistance/continuity tests between each ends of the wire. I believe it's covered in the FSM. Basically just take a speaker wire and hook it to one end of the wire, then unplug the ECU harness and check for continuity between the proper pin and the speaker wire that's attached to the other end.

Also, the 98 max I'm working on right now had a similar start issue. First time it won't start without a fight, after it's started everything is happy. After taking the drive belt off I found out the alternator bearings are essentially frozen (due to powersteering fluid leaking all over it). With enough force they start spinning so after a good crank the car gets going. It may not be related at all but just check the A/C, Alternator, and idler pulley and make sure they're all spinning. Perhaps when it came apart it bent or damaged one of the other components. Just a thought anyway.

trommel

Your first suggestion sounds like a possibility. I'll just need to find the proper point on the harness. I did check the ground wire to the CPS (ref) and that is good.

I was however thinking that if the other harness wire to the computer was open then it wouldn't make a difference which CPS I installed because the computer would still get the same input (basically no signal). But that is not the case since it definitely starts differently depending on which CPS I put in.

Thanks also for the tip about possible belt slippage. Since I don't hear a squeal when I crank the engine I'm guessing that's probably not an issue. Once again, if it was a belt slippage problem it shouldn't make any difference which CPS I try.

dnyc3st89

Bumppppppp im. Having this problem now helpppppp

tandecycles

There is a plug that contains injector wires and the crank sensor wires. Look on passenger side just past the timing cover toward the rear coils. Its gtrey and has I think like 8 wires going to it. Pull it apart and look for corrossion. Also while youre there check the bottom half. There are the black wire and white wire across from each other. See if the insulation pulled back on them or any of them for that matter. If it is then repair them.

My 95 has a similar problem and I found this situation on mine. I am going to pull the wires out of the plug and reconnect them outside of this main plug. it contains the subharness I guess so you can service just part of the wiring.

I too had the same sensor from autozone. the way my car was attempting to start made the code for this to come up. I went to dealer and bought a new one. just a few bucks more but I have been reading on here that some parts from autozone dont like our cars.

Maxima 97 SE

You need to buy an original sensor from Nissan or online that's original and made by mitsubishi because thats the only part that works with our car no aftermarket will work because I tried it from auto zone and all the other aftermarket brands it does not work same cranking problem with misfire. It either OEM or nothing.

Ernesto

My beloved Maxima 1995 out of the blue sky refused to start. Tried like 4 times, pushed the car to a safe place, tried once again and it started. This was enough to drive it home and into my driveway for observation.

The engine light had come on, and I read the code P1335 Crankshaft position sensor (REF) (Thank God for having these codes). Went to the left side of the car, close to the oil filter, and took out the two screws that hold the sensor. Cleaned with a rug the abundant dirt and oil attached to the sensor, connector and cable during 23 years, had to make a lot of force to remove the connector, and checked that the wiring in spite of all that oil is strong and well protected.

Took the sensor inside, checked continuity with my DVM and found out that the winding was OPEN. This explained the failure. My local O'Reilly had the part in stock and I bought it, even if it was more than twice the price of one online, because I didn't want to leave my car disabled for several days. Replaced the sensor, and the problem was solved.

Conclusion: This problem should not have happened. Solenoid winding should be made well enough that it does not break, especially in such an important sensor that the car will not run without it. I cannot complain about this wonderful car which has served me already for 23 years, but over the years I had to change four injectors for exactly the same reason: broken winding (open circuit) of their solenoids, which were Bosh, a brand that should perform better.

On the positive of this incident is my feeling of satisfaction and yes, gratitude to this noble car that lets me repair it successfully without having to fall in the hands of greedy and sometimes incompetent professional mechanics. And I am thankful to forums like this one that are useful guides when in need.