Greetings earthlings!

Okay so, it's a 1999 5MT SE-L, 150k miles. There are many things I need to do to restore it to a condition I want it in but first I need to make it safe to drive considering me and my dad drive this thing a lot now.


Currently, the main problem is how the car is handling. The steering wheel has a mean drag to the right, the tires are worn but I already ordered 4 new tires, they will be here during the week. Today when I was driving to work I was making a ramp turn and the car was trembling and skidding as if the tires were flat (the psi was adjusted properly) I guess it could be the combination of bad tires and ice cold asphault but my question is could it be a suspension problem? What would bad control arms or tie rods do? My driver side sway bar link sounds like it's shot, could that make such a difference in turns?

Power steering fluid is a little below max, and I know why. I have a leak at the return line, as well as the main line but the leak seems to be due to bad clamps. Do I switch the clamps or just clean the hose ends to clear any residue?


My brake fluid bottle is very wet at the cap as if it has occasional pressure bursts, is that possible? What do I do about it?

When I sit at the front with the car running in silence, I can hear water trickling in the engine bay closer to the cabin, I'm not familiar with how the water pump operates, but could that be it? Or am I just hearing something normal..

My top 3 coils are only held by 1 screw each! Coils 3 and 5 are missing a the top screw and coil 1 has a stripped screw sitting in the metal. Is it okay to ride around like this? I have a CEL with p1320 (and also the knock sensor) and I have yet to figure out what exactly is causing it.

The A/C compressor line to the radiator is missing.. does it need to be welded to the radiator or do I just get one from a junk yard and plug&play? Also, is it okay to ride around like this?


When I got the car it wasn't really rideable.. I changed the pads and rotors, put it on used tires that were better than what it had, the rear struts were blown and I rode around like a basketball until I stopped by a junkyard and got used KYB struts and springs for $50 for the time being. Now all the suspension is making noise (due to rusty mounts and worn bushings I guess) but I've decided I'm going with the Sensen shocks, and I will probably pair them with OEM springs. What I need to also know is what other suspension parts would you recommend I change that matter to the ride?

Sorry for having so much to write (and I wasn't even finished lol) but I would like some input on my issues, and my goal is to have the car riding comfortable and safe! Fyi, I baught the car for $1,000 but I don't mind putting money into it as I know this car will serve me and my family well. Thanks so much for checking out my thread and I hope you can help me turn this car into a Max it deserves to be.

Once again I appreciate it and am looking forward to your input!

 

1 - Your front end alignment is way off for whatever reason. It could be bad ball joints, bad tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings or a front end accident. If you can't check all this stuff yourself, you need to take it to a collision frame shop, not someplace like Sears or Firestone.

2 - Power steering fluid level below the max line isn't a problem. The leaks are. The power steering uses Dexron type auto trans fluid. You can try changing the hose clamps but I doubt that it will help. Unfortunately the Maxima hoses have to be replaced. AND - the ATF oil dripping on the lower control arm rots the bushings.

3 - I have never heard of the brake fluid leaking like that. Is the fluid level below the max line?

4 - Maybe you have air in the cooling system. A lot of times the cooling system doesn't get bled properly. The heater core is at the center of the dash and is also the high point in the cooling system. Get the car so that the front end is up higher than the rear, either jacked up or parked on an incline. Higher is better. When the engine is cold, take off the radiator cap and start the engine. Let it run until the thermostat opens and coolant starts to circulate through the radiator. The air bubbles may push some of the coolant out at first but then the air escapes and you can fill the radiator to the top.

5 - One screw in each coil isn't a problem. You could run with no screws. Worst case is the coil backs off the spark plug and the engine develops a miss. The P1320 code could mean that ALL the coils need to be replaced. DO not replace them with the crap they sell on e-bay unless you like replacing your coils every 6 to 12 months. But code could also be a bad crankshaft sensor on the pulley by the oil filter.

6 - The a/c lines screw into the condenser coil. It's not the radiator they attach to. But you can't just put a hose on and charge the a/c. Since it has been running with an open hose, the the inside of the lines and the compressor will have to be cleaned and evacuated so that there is not dirt or water in the system. If you get a line from the junkyard (which I don't recommend), make sure it comes off the same year car. But it is not dangerous to drive the car like it is.

 

Wow, sorry for the big *** pictures, I resized them.

Thanks for taking the time to explain, I will keep doing research until I feel comfortable going forward with repairs, for now I will be ordering parts.

One more question is if I'm getting struts, it would probably be fine to keep my springs? Do springs get ruined somehow from riding or will they perform just as well?

Thanks!

 

When I replied originally, the photos didn't display. Now that I see them, I have to re-comment on the power steering hose leak. Those are all low pressure lines for the oil cooler. So new hose clamps will probably work. My original comments were in regards to the high pressure hoses that run along the firewall.

As to the springs & struts, you can replace the struts and re-use the springs. Springs do wear out, but are supposed to last for several hundred thousand miles. You can check and see if the springs have weakened by parking the car on a level surface and doing some measuring. The car should be empty, no extra stuff in the trunk or the passenger cabin. Then you measure from the ground to the wheel well arch in the fender.

Download this section of the FSM and go to page 27 for specs and diagram.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/FA.pdf

 

damn thats a dirty vq, clean that block up and you'll be able to see what's leaking alot easier