1995 max with 135K. Threw many new parts at this car and cant figure it out. Some needed to be replaced others were put on for the sake of having a new part. I have air/fuel/spark. At this time no CEL.
Heres the new parts...
Plugs...NGK Plat
MAF
Crank POS sensor
Crank REF sensor
Cam sensor
3 O2 sensors
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Drained all gas and replaced with Sunoco Ultra
Over killed the grounds and cleaned original grounds
New battery cables
Starter
Battery
Ignition condensor
FPR
Injector seals
Harmonic balancer
Checked all wires in harness for voltage and ohms as per FSM
One concern I have is that while old fuel (4 years) was in tank it would pop in exhaust during crank and cranking would hesitate. Also the tach would bounce as it cranked. Now fresh fuel the tach dont move at all during cranking....no start, no pop, no backfire. Any ideas????? Been working on this since beginning of December 2012. Oh and.....plugs are wet with fuel even though it is sparking.

 

It not clear from your reply if your car actually currently cranks or not.

Check your two fuel lines on the fuel rail. Make sure they are not reversed. The fuel rail closest to the grill in the input for fuel (from your fuel filter), the one closes to the trunk is the return.

EDIT 01: Perhaps posting a video would help.

 

Car cranks but not start. I have spark. Have injector pulse. When I first try to start it seems to "want" to start for split second. After that the plugs just get wet with fuel.

I pulled the front injector assembly off engine and cranked it and they did spray like they should......no steady or non-stop spray.

Fuel lines are in correct place as I took them off one at a time.

A video would just show the engine cranking and no start.

The tach jumps when spark occurs but once plugs get wet it seems to not jump any more.

Im thinking ECM but they rarely go bad. ECM signals spark time and injector pulse. just dont seem to be at right time?? No back-fire or intake popping....none in exhaust either. it did this when I had the bad gas in the tank but not now.

I researched neutral switch and inhibitor switch but dont think its one of them.....would I still have injector pulse and spark if it was one of these???

No codes or CEL.

Additionally to add to the list in first post I replaced the ignition switch too. The security light blinks at all times but goes out when cranking......again would I have spark or injector pulse if it was a security issue????

 

try this when it acts like its about start let go from turning it over...just let go..mine done this at one point idk why but it did still does from time to time if this dont work hmu catfishheadhunters@yahoo.com look me up on facebook ill try my best to help ya out but seems you have almost done it all

 

Since you said that the tach is not showing RPM while cranking I would focus all attention to your crank sensor circuit. Find an oscilloscope and check to see if you are getting a pulsing signal from 0-5v.

I know you said you replaced the crank sensors but that does not mean that you didn't receive a bad one out of the box.

 

No you would not have injector pulse.

 

Dang man, I wish u had started a thread before throwing money at parts..thats a lotta coin.

To me, since the car is cranking, u have air/fuel. how have u verifird spark? have u seen the spark plugs sparking?



When did the no starts first occur? If u have air/fuel/spark/compression then the ECU is fried.

 

Also have u dont the simple things like clean the TB/IACV? New PCV and ECTS. ECTS is known to cause slow starts and in some cases no start. Make sure the Intake air temp sensor is plugged in.

 

Sorry it took so long to get back but thanks for input. I verified injector pulse by pulling fuel rail up and out. Cranked it and it pulsated......no steady spray.

I verified spark by pulling plugs and grounded while cranking.....good blue spark.

TB and IAC valve cleaned thouroughly.....new MAF and still clean. New ECTS.

New PVC and hoses.

How do I get an oscilloscope? are there any portable? Would have to tow to garage that has one. Money tight.

REF crank sensor new from Nissan....POS crank sensor new and works......had metal shavings from cranking so long and threw code....cleaned off with dry rag and no more code.

cashoit....I started thread in December but it "died" from no responses. I did take advise from other threads and applied them to my car.....still no luck.

Im thinking ECU but dont want to throw money like that any more unless I know for sure. Wife getting p!ssed......her car got totalled in November and this is her "new" car......was mine back when we were dating.

When first attempting to start the car after it has been sitting like couple hours or over night it sputters like it wants to start....like one or two cylinders are firing. Then the get wet and it just cranks.

Not the coils because they throw a spark. Injectors pulse. No codes. Im thinking the pulses are not "timed" correctly for injectors/spark by ECM. Would adding an external ground to ECM help? How and where should they go on?

Air temp sensor IS plugged in.

 

I was reading a thread....check all fuses especially METER fuse. Make sure all are good.

 

All fuses good even the METER fuse. Im at a loss here. Initially when I crank it sounds like it fires(stumbles) for a second...then nothing but crank, crank, crank. Then the plugs get wet and I have to let it sit for awhile.

 

How did this no start condition begin? Just one day it went from starting fine to its current condition?

 

Thats a lot of new parts...one could certainly be bad

 

Ok guys first thanks for helping me out. Now I dont want to jump into anything expensive but am thinking bad injectors thats making it flood.

The story from beginning.
The car was running fine and my O2 sensor in CAT fell out and dragging on street due to it rusting out. Rigged it back in until I did BIG job on my MAX.

I had no CEL......just found out the bulb was removed.

I figured it was time to do the timing chain so I gathered all the parts needed and once I had them I tore into it like a lion on a steak.

All new stuff from belts, hoses, water pump, chains, tensioners, valve cover gaskets and tube seals, NGK Plat plugs, # O2 sensors along with all listed above.

After it was done I drove it for a few months. It ran like crap like sputtering and low power. Blowing black smoke out exhaust until I just parked it.

Oh, new stainless exhaust with new factory CAT.

I need this car running now and changed out a few more things, sensors and whatnot. Got the CEL working and getting no codes now.

It seems to flood out right away thats why I think bad injectors.

What do you all think? Im going nuts here.
I tried all suggestions from other threads as you can tell from what has been done to car.

Could it be that the spark is not STRONG enough? and coils are shot? they do spark when grounding to VC.

 

I think your issue may be related to the replacement of the chain/tensioners. Are you sure you set it correctly and did you prime the tensioners ?

 

I thougt about the chains too so......I tore it all apart and set them again very slowly and triple checked it all before reassembly. The thing is it was backfiring through exhaust with the bad gas....in fact it even ran like crap but it ran.

the gas in tank is new Sunoco Ultra with new pump and sock.

It no longer pops in exhaust and never did before or now through intake.

Im going on a limb but am researching TPS.....could it be giving ECM signal of partially open and that is causing it to flood? I set it to specs and am not getting a code for it.

What is the second plug on TPS for? The one toward firewall(brown) is the one used for adjustment. Could the other one be causing a problem but not setting CEL?

I noticed today that while cranking it sputtered. then I pumped gas pedal about half way several times while cranking and it continued to just sputter. What is the relation to that? Thats why Im researching TPS. Any input or ideas would be great.

Oh and someone asked about ECTS....Its new.

Today I took off the TB and IACV and scubbed them real good. Took them apart and all. No issues found but still no start.

 

What's your fuel pressure? I know you've done lots but I have found that starting over with the basics will often clear things up spark, compression, fuel pressure.

 

I have not checked the fuel pressure. Was thinking about that too but I already replaced fuel pump with sock and FPR along with new filter. Only thing I didnt replace was the return check valve. Didnt think I needed it because when I changed the fuel pump there was presure in it when I took it off of sending unit lid.......i did not relieve the pressure before I started. All new seals on injectors too.

 

Checked compression and got 185-200 on all cylinders. Gonna check for quality spark next. I know it had a blue spark before but have to compare the quality now. It should at least run like crap but......

I cranked with cam sensor unplugged and got a code for it so it must be working.

Gonna try each crank sensor and see if it does the same. At least Ill know they are sending a signal.

IAC valve cleaned very well along with TB. They werent too bad since they were done not long ago.

The tensioners should be primed since Ive been cranking it so much. the oil light goes out on dash after a few cranks. Even so it should at least fire up until pressure builds up to take up slack. All the timing chain parts are new so chain dont have much slack to begin with.

So.....I have air, compression test confirms that. I have fuel, I pulled injectors and cranked, they sprayed and pulsed. I have/had fire, checking again today.

Could ECU be fried? There was two wires from crank REF sensor shorted against each other but now fixed. Could that cicuit be done and its not allowing it to start or would it throw code? I tested for voltage and continuity and it passed.

 

im having same problem with mine belive me its not a sensor or the ecu its a ground problem mines flooding it self out poping in the cai and exhaust..mine does this to me once every 6-7 months after you get it back started take it for a good drive and dont turn it off....after an hour drive let it sit for a couple mins and should start if not then you'll be fighting it again all over just to get it to start...read in other threads its a ground issue last time mine is doing the same thing as urs which is doing this today i had to undue my main ground from the block under your frount valve cover right beside the manifold and mine started right up...now this time around its not working this way so im playing with my ground tring to get a good ground to get it fired up while its flooding it self so server and beware...dont crank crank crank do a few then rest few cause ive been thru 2 starters today with this pos..after i get it back running im done with it...just spend a grand on getting exhaust work new belts brakes rotors plugs and filled it up yesterday with 93 octane and today no start...tire of these alum blocks and there bad grounding but ill keep at it till i get it started and if something works ill post it

 

ITS FIXED took the ground from the block this time bolted it to my top starter bolt..take the bracket off the ground where it bolts to the head...take a knife holla out the bolt hole it can be done cause its brass till your starter bolt goes through then slide your bolt through then bolt it up and should start..unless its to flooded then let it sit over night with the plugs out and let it air out then do it later...mines running but gotta clean the spark plugs off to purr again

 

Would like to hear if this fix works? Is that the only ground you have now, besides the one under the battery tray of course.

Mine's doing the same thing. Cranks all day, and now will only start reluctantly if I jump-start it battery-to-battery with my other car. Don't want to kill that battery too as I've already killed the one in the Max, most likely the starter too.

 

yes this the only ground i have on the whole car besides the one under my battery tray i mean it still has a sec or 2 till it starts but this is the best i can do ive ran 4 or 5 different grounds and nothing till i done this and its just the one ground thats all if u need more help i can take some pictures and show ya where i grounded it too and how i did it if u would like

 

and i have killed 2 starters today and a battery lol luckily the guys at my part store can careless how many times i burn one up lol and switch me one out locked both up lol

 

yeah pics would be great if you can.

Just took off my stock batt. ground cable and it's all corroded and loose. Going to be re-doing the entire ground system : 2AWG from starter directly to batt. and 4AWG for batt. to chassis and trans (CPS POS) and engine block connections.

 

Sorry.....Ive been away for a week. On 2/25 it actually started right up!!!! What I did was most likely NOT related but I unpluged the hood switch...tapped key.....and it started. It ran for about 10 minutes pretty well then died down slowly and wouldnt start. Ill try the ground thing to the starter even though all are clean and new. Im gonna try ground under battery too.

While it was running it threw a code 47. crank sensor.....

f it...Im gonna trace back the wires and just replace them. There was an issue before at the big grey connector next to TC cover where those two wires had the insulation pulled back. Must have been from heat and dont think it was cut or pulled by someone trying to fix it. Continuity was good at test time but guess it wouldnt hurt to just change.

Dont think it was chains because it ran for me.....it ran pretty good considering all the fuel in exhaust was being burned out. Once the smoke cleared it started to run slow and eventually died.

Will post what I do and what works or doesnt work.....Thanks guys.

 

Well I took the harness from big plug at TC cover and crank REF sensor. It contains the oil light wire too. Sure enough the insulation on the white and black wire was cracked. the wires were intact still. I noticed the sheild wire is wrapped around these two wires. I think what happened is the white and/or black wires were shorting to the sheilding wire. Harness all fixed but still no start......"think it aint got not gas"(Slingblade voice).

Will let you know what happens.

 

keep us updated my gound thing worked for a day or 2 untill it flooded it self so bad again...ive done exact everything you have done all new sensors 3 new starters now 2 batteysall new grounds cleaned the tb iacv maf ect...now no codes at all still and im about to start on my 4th starter do to over cranking deal

 

never mind starter locked up on it again...getting junked

 

Sorry about the time. Wife is very sick.

It seems to be getting better but still no start. I replaced plugs(NGK, Plats). while cranking it sputters. So its getting better. Replaced plug wires(stems) and still better but no start. Im leaning more towarss coils.

When it was running it ran very rich but could not diagnose then because CEL was not working. I threw parts at it and have too much invested to give up. This car will be like new again once its running. Love the car. At this time no codes come up but while cranking it turns over then hesitates(thinking hydrolock) Plugs get wet with fuel. Everything is working as it should(at least I think so).

Any help would be appreciated.

 

i had this problem before after my car sat. it was bad gas.. flodded when i tried starting and only sputtered, i put dry gas in it and filled thr tank with high octane. it started right up. if your instrument panel isnt working its fuse 13 i belive under the dash. the meter fuse.. if the tach isnt reading check the cps with volt meter. if everything is new it might come down to the timing or the computer.