I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
#1
I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
My girlfriend is looking at a '97 SE and I was wondering about what to look for when we go to look at it. Any suggestions? I know all the basics that you would look for on any car - I'm looking for Maxima specific stuff here. The car has 89,000 miles on it and is a dark green. Thanks in advance for any help!
#2
Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
Originally posted by Spooled
My girlfriend is looking at a '97 SE and I was wondering about what to look for when we go to look at it. Any suggestions? I know all the basics that you would look for on any car - I'm looking for Maxima specific stuff here. The car has 89,000 miles on it and is a dark green. Thanks in advance for any help!
My girlfriend is looking at a '97 SE and I was wondering about what to look for when we go to look at it. Any suggestions? I know all the basics that you would look for on any car - I'm looking for Maxima specific stuff here. The car has 89,000 miles on it and is a dark green. Thanks in advance for any help!
When you said "I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but..." I thought it was gonna be talking about an egnine swap or a turbo from a 300zx. Thanks for putting dome faith back in lurkers for me.
SuDZ
#3
Re: Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
Nah - the girlfriend doesn't need major hp, and I've already got my 300ZX turbo fix. Hehe I'm just praying that the Max is a 5speed.
As for the starter - if it does squeel, I assume it will need to be replaced, or is there more at work there?
As for the starter - if it does squeel, I assume it will need to be replaced, or is there more at work there?
#5
Just bought one.....
I just bought a 97 SE Maxima. Mine had 66,000 m on it. 89,000 seems a little high, but that is your desicion. What I did was drove mine 3 times before I bought it, to make sure everything was okay. Also, see if you can get ahold of the previous owner & ask him questions. That helps a lot.
#6
Re: Re: Re: Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
Originally posted by dashingMax
Definitely get a CarFax report done BEFORE you buy
Definitely get a CarFax report done BEFORE you buy
#9
#10
Thanks everyone for the helpful comments, keep them coming! I just found out that the car is an automatic, so let me know if the auto trannies had any weaknesses. Also, were the VTC's as prone to ticking in the 97 as they were in the 95/96?
#11
Originally posted by Spooled
Thanks everyone for the helpful comments, keep them coming! I just found out that the car is an automatic, so let me know if the auto trannies had any weaknesses. Also, were the VTC's as prone to ticking in the 97 as they were in the 95/96?
Thanks everyone for the helpful comments, keep them coming! I just found out that the car is an automatic, so let me know if the auto trannies had any weaknesses. Also, were the VTC's as prone to ticking in the 97 as they were in the 95/96?
#12
The starter problem is because the grease dries out inside. It's supposed to be an easy fix, a couple of hours. www.motorvate.ca has a good write-up on it (and other fixes).
An added note, the starter 'squeal' is something that (I thought) is only apparent during cold weather, correct me if I am wrong. The 'squeal' sounds more like a donkey blowing its nose for about 0.5 seconds after the motor turns and you release the key. The first time it happens, you'll be going "WT*"
The Maxima A/T might not be the 'smoothest' tranny you'll ever drive. It's an agreed upon fact by most on the .org. For example, my 1>2 shifts are somewhat beef jerky, everything else is perfect. Others have different lousy shift combinations (2>3, 2>1, etc).
When the car is stationary, turn the wheels to the left & right (full turn). If you hear a crunch-cruch sound, the strut bearing has dried out too ... common problem , but you 'might' be able to use it to your advantage as a bargaining chip. Don't have to fix it until you do any lowering or shock(strut!!!!) replacement, it's only an annoyance that she'll forget after a while. www.motorvate.ca has a fix about it too.
Please check out the 4th gen FAQs, it tells you alot about common wear items and where to get them for cheap.
Run the carfax like suggested, if it's a private owner sale, ask them what gas do they use casually. If they keep switching back & forth from 87 to 91+, you've probably had some serious knocking in the engine. Might be a bad thing.
Get service records, Front rotors might be going out soon if they haven't been replaced. E-brake cable might be damaged. Oil pressure sending unit might be leaking, look underneath the engine near the oil filter (passenger side) for signs of leakage. Regular oil changes is an engine's best friend. Hood struts might be going bad (about $40/pair, read the FAQ for where to buy them) but you might be able to use it as a bargaining chip quoting Nissan's prices (about $110/pair). Get a free brake inspection done (most places do it for free, or maximum $20+) so you'll know where you stand on brakes.
If the car has auto A/C control unit, those things are expensive to replace if ever they go bad.
Another thing, clee's best advice : search is your best friend!
An added note, the starter 'squeal' is something that (I thought) is only apparent during cold weather, correct me if I am wrong. The 'squeal' sounds more like a donkey blowing its nose for about 0.5 seconds after the motor turns and you release the key. The first time it happens, you'll be going "WT*"
The Maxima A/T might not be the 'smoothest' tranny you'll ever drive. It's an agreed upon fact by most on the .org. For example, my 1>2 shifts are somewhat beef jerky, everything else is perfect. Others have different lousy shift combinations (2>3, 2>1, etc).
When the car is stationary, turn the wheels to the left & right (full turn). If you hear a crunch-cruch sound, the strut bearing has dried out too ... common problem , but you 'might' be able to use it to your advantage as a bargaining chip. Don't have to fix it until you do any lowering or shock(strut!!!!) replacement, it's only an annoyance that she'll forget after a while. www.motorvate.ca has a fix about it too.
Please check out the 4th gen FAQs, it tells you alot about common wear items and where to get them for cheap.
Run the carfax like suggested, if it's a private owner sale, ask them what gas do they use casually. If they keep switching back & forth from 87 to 91+, you've probably had some serious knocking in the engine. Might be a bad thing.
Get service records, Front rotors might be going out soon if they haven't been replaced. E-brake cable might be damaged. Oil pressure sending unit might be leaking, look underneath the engine near the oil filter (passenger side) for signs of leakage. Regular oil changes is an engine's best friend. Hood struts might be going bad (about $40/pair, read the FAQ for where to buy them) but you might be able to use it as a bargaining chip quoting Nissan's prices (about $110/pair). Get a free brake inspection done (most places do it for free, or maximum $20+) so you'll know where you stand on brakes.
If the car has auto A/C control unit, those things are expensive to replace if ever they go bad.
Another thing, clee's best advice : search is your best friend!
#13
Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
Carfax does not always have everything on it. My wife owned a 96 eclipse where the front bumper cover and front quarter panels were replaced from a minor collision. However this wreck never made it to the report.
Besides the usual paint spray and discolorations. Always check to see if the quarter panel bolts have been turned. If you look closely at the bolts you can tell if they were last tightened by the factory or by a repair shop. Turned bolts often show paint chips caused by a wrench and sometimes rounded corners on the bolts. The front of the car is the most important in a wreck so if this checks out ok then you are usually good to go as far as frontal collisions go.
If you are in no rush, wait for a 5 speed. You will never be sorry.
Besides the usual paint spray and discolorations. Always check to see if the quarter panel bolts have been turned. If you look closely at the bolts you can tell if they were last tightened by the factory or by a repair shop. Turned bolts often show paint chips caused by a wrench and sometimes rounded corners on the bolts. The front of the car is the most important in a wreck so if this checks out ok then you are usually good to go as far as frontal collisions go.
If you are in no rush, wait for a 5 speed. You will never be sorry.
#14
Re: Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
nismomaxse97
Good point about the paint & bolts for the front quarter panels.
Also, all sheet metal will have a VIN # tag to match the vehicle. If ever any panels were replaced, the VIN # might be missing (unless the person was smart enough to re-use it properly). So look on each door, hood, trunk for this VIN # tag.
Good point about the paint & bolts for the front quarter panels.
Also, all sheet metal will have a VIN # tag to match the vehicle. If ever any panels were replaced, the VIN # might be missing (unless the person was smart enough to re-use it properly). So look on each door, hood, trunk for this VIN # tag.
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