ok after redoing some grounds and backing off the tranny to sand it down helped...ive noticed on really cold days is the worst for her..she aint throwng any codes at all right now...but im wondering is why is she flooding her self so bad..after about 4-5 cranks if it aint started she PUFFS a puff of smoke out and smells like i just spilled the gas can in the car...so needless to say its flooding it self...i changed the spark plugs when i done the ground issue it fired right up...now after about 3-4 days back to point A and im really really getting tired of this car...love it but hate it at the same time...i have cleaned maf changed the maf clean iacv cleaned the tb cleaned the o2 sensors cleaned the egr valve and tube which was pretty clean just black is all uhhmmm new crank sensors both that is cam sensor new spark plugs new battery new starter fuel pump fuel filter..and coolant temp sensor...any suggestions b4 i tend to light a match and walk away

 

I just replied to this, my internet timed out

IMO it sounds like your IACV, try giving it some gas and see if will start up

 

Ive adjusted my black **** on top top of it and seems to start easier ive adjusted it to suck more air in looked at one car and it was all the way screwed out almost and mine was down all the way but i usally have to adjust it when the temp out side is different but giving it gas while tring to start it does nothing

 

Sounds like your battery isn't giving enough power to the starter to crank while it's cold......I had the same problem with my battery in 30 or less degree weather.....I expected that to be the problem though because it was a $60 temp battery + my alternator was bad

 

This "......."is not how you end and begin a sentence.
It's reading one long giant run on.

 

njmaxseltd - while I agree, you could at least offer some help with your criticism.
I observed some of these issues during cold starts, too. I had a 300A inline fuse that was going bad and a few loose grounds. The trans-battery ground is usually the next culprit, but it looks like you addressed that. Inspect the TB position during starting, run a static test on the starter, check the main fusible link (at the battery), and also check the ground from the starter to the transmission. Please let us know if you come to a solution. It took months for me to address mine, and I'm sure others are having the same issue as you.

 

It's a forum...........not a job application so i only really do it for social networking

 

dont like how i write my sentences thats your problem....to me its easier to read and for other people....anyways it has a brand new battery new battery cable ends new battery cables i actually have 2 one that bolts to the existing ground the one that runs under the battery tray and to the transmission housing....then i have one straight to the bolt on the starter the top one on that deal...i did indeed blow my battery fuse in the fuse box next to the battery....so i changed it before all this acted up aswell but it also has a new starter cause from the previous encounter of not starting i went threw 2 starters and a optima red top battery but good thing it had a 3 year warranty on her....and today i started messing with the iacv and adjusted the black **** and she is starting up again...still longer cranking time but atleast its starting...just wish it was back to the normal maxima i know because its killing me going to wally world and people look at me like you need help im like...nooo im good it will start she just on a smoke break lol

 

and to you i can really careless about you i have seen you in multiple threads on here bashing people for miss spelling or they was new and didnt do there research first or someone who has problems and are trying to learn and ask a really silly question....i sold my civic because of people like you i was in the civic forum and there was so many people that bashed each others ideas or had a snide remark to another forum member i couldnt imagine people acting like that who had civics so i sold mine didnt want no part...but i can say atleast there are far less people on this forum in maxima's that bash someone or is a smartazz
i mean yes we do have some of those people but owell but anyways anytime you see me put a thread up or something that has my name please keep your mouth shut!!!! THANKS

 

I just bought my first Maxima, its a 98, this lady I bought it from said sometimes in the summer when it is really hot outside the car won't start. She then opened the hood, and told me if she poured cold water on this certain spot it would make the car start....I am new to Maxima's but this canister sits on the firewall directly in front of the passenger. It is all the way at the top of the firewall right next to the hood. To me, it looks like she was pouring water on the windshield wiper motor. But I am so new to working on these I have no idea. I just said....."mkay.....if that works....." I havn't had this problem yet so I am curious as to how this plays out....

 

agreed !!!!

 

your guess is good as mine and anyothers man..wouldnt have a clue what part this would play out in

 

lots of experience with this, cleaning both bellhousing surfaces properly(i use high speed die grinder with 3m roloc discs)make sure you tighten the bolts well. use 1/2 drive rachet and socket, go back over them after some driving. make sure all factory grounds are clean.

 

 

Fuel filter. Cold water could help if it was vapor locked, although we have a return line and fuel injection so vapor lock shouldn't be an issue.

 

did you go from the starter bolt directly to the negative terminal? I added a few grounds, i cleaned grounds it would come and go but once i added a cable directly from the starter bolt to the terminal it never came back

i assume its safe to say you dont have a CEL?

i once borrowed a fuel pressure gauge and T-ed the line to see what the fuel pressure was at to rule it out, meaning it could be the check valve, leaking fuel injectors or FPR not holding pressure, you can try and cycle the ignition a few times before you try and start it to build fuel pressure

it could even be the ignition switch but that would show up more as a no crank then a no start

 

yea i have no cel at all which makes me made but owell....i actaully bought a new switch and locking assembly cause i busted my old one up cause i figured that was the problem from the get go but it wasent....i have the ground directly to the starter bolt and seemed to help it out but since i have messed with the iacv it is starting now but still takes a cycle or to sooo im assuming that it could be on its way out and not throwing any codes yet....bad thing about all this acting up again i just spent a grand getting it back in shape..new exhaust new muffler cai a true one new ngk double plat new slotted and drilled rotors and the ignition switch assembly and i still need rear struts lol and a wheel bearing..but thanks guys for all your inputs i will try my fuel pressure and since i have the money i might switch out the fuel pump to a 255 lph fuel pump and some bigger injectors and im not going with venom again like i have

 

So once upon a time with one of my many maximas and many 3.0l's failures the first thing I would do is do a cold engine compression test, a leakdown compression test... what color is the smoke that"puffs" out? If the smoke is white and the hard start are only when its cold, it could, and I stress "could" be coolent leaking into the combustion chamber. If any of the cyls.leakdown more then 1-2% or more in less then 5-8mins. What "could" be happening is even small amount of water/coolent will cause hard starts, harder cold starts, and would certainly cause a white "puff" of smoke.

 

ok now that im outta the hospital lol anyways it finally throws me a code P0335 which is a crank sensor so assuming i replaced the one under the crank already guess ill change out the one on the tranny again guess its went bad again...just changed both about 3 months ago so atleast its still under warranty get a freebie ill let ya know if it helps!!!

 

welp no fix with the new one..since i had the money i replaced both and the cam sensor just in case and still same issue o well guess its about that time to let it go

 

Just wondering, with all the talk about grounds, Is it cranking good or slow? I dont think that was said.
Is it only when its cold outside? My old 96 had that issue and it was the thermo unit that sets the cold idle. You might look at that and see if is working. Mine was frozen and replaceing it solved by cold start issues.

Also, check the boot betweent the MAF and the throttle body for cracks. Just a thought.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...h-idle-tb.html

 

it cranks great no catch up or lagging none...i have not checked this out yet..but when i took my tb off i cleaned it and checked out ok but doesent mean its bad ill def look at this thanks man your the first to mention this!!!

 

welp nothing...went out today 56 degrees sunny nice and warm...then nothing today...all she would do is pop and crack in the intake again..no codes at all so guess its time to put an ad in parting out section....

 

Did you actually part out? I'm having a very similar issue, which arose about 2-3 week ago. It's been sitting since.

If you're still looking to fix your prob...here's what I'VE done so far.

Info: 00VI with UIM,LIM swap, 00TB, I/H/E (car ran for months thisway)

My symptoms before absolute shut down: Trouble starting on cold days(possible ect/IACV problem). inconsistant crank (stops cranking mid cycle) and immediately before shutdown it had a stumble below 2.5k when accelerating.

Normally once running it would run fine, aside from the occassional High Idle or hunting idle (possible IACV sticking).

In efforts to remedy the issue i've replaced

CKPS, CAM sensor, crank ref sensor, fuel pump. (all passes resistance test)

Getting power to all coil harnesses(ch). CH has good ground (continuity test). coils have resistance (0 ohms <coils)8
*signal wire voltage hase to be re-verfied. I believe it was within spec (.01 -.1 v)



Same goes for Crank ref and cam sensors. They have continuity to subharnesses and ground.

I've cleaned up factory grounds: all neg body mount and engine block mount locations.
I have (for a year or two) added two grounds off the starter to chasis.

Checked and swapped eccs relay, eccs fuses 1 and 2. start signal is fuse is good.

I'm now thinking possible ECU malfunction (not likely) or My ignition condenser, which failed the 1mega ohm test.


Hope this helps us both

 

Could be the ignition switch that is faulty.

 

Hmm... Im gettin' power to the Coil Harness and the car cranks strong. Also, it wont push start.

I've confirmed that i'm getting signal (.2-3 volts) from ecu to pin# 3 on aCoil Harnesses while cranking.

Anyway, I'll give it shot.

Thanks

 

sorry guys no i didnt not part it out lol i tore her down a week ago and hit my transmission housing and motor housing where the trans and motor mate with a wire wheel on drill and around where my starter sits in at and sanded on the motor where i couldnt get a wire wheel at...took me about 4 hours to do it take it out and put back in with air tools of course but she fired right up!!!! and has been every since and is back to performance and every thing...i tried my maf i cleaned my iacv the egr valve and tube all new sensors except iacv cam both crank went through 4 starters and 2 batteries i ran 3 grounds just to the transmission alone and a few other spots i switched out a used ecu bought a new ignition switch and lock assembly had my keys reprogrammed replaced the nuetral safety switch lol alot of time and money and just came down to it being the surfaces of trans and motor dirty some but i done the trans swap about a year ago and started acting up in septmeber which why i thought it wasent the ground issue but its fine and dandy now tho besides a bad wheel bearing

 

Update:

As far my problem goes, I've checked all applicable systems and connections; non of which worked.
- Removing the transmissoin and Sanding the mating (engine and trans) surfaces resolved my problem. Before the removal I tried to ground the engine with extra grounds, replaced the 3 crank sensors (ckps, cps, Cam sensor), 2 starters and bought a new battery.

 

Aren't you the guy who has the big injectors and no additional air flow? Whut. You should probably just stop driving this car. You're ruining it.

 

No, I'm not "that guy". The forum douche bag/ smart *** thing is old and corny. Stop it.
I hope you're just bustin' *****