heard a clicking coming form my car under hard cornering its been happening for a while, so i pulled the wheel found a torn inner CV-boot (plus it would clunk off the line so i knew it was going out)

i replaced the axle as it was an autozone "new" aftermarket CV. I took it for a drive it was worst around corners! (it did fix the clunk from a stop)

i went back exchanged the axle and the new one is better but still does it, and seemingly at a lower cornering load than the old one i removed.

with the front end all the way off the ground i put it in drive and let the wheels spin i get a big clunking from the same side (left) it does not happen if i jack up the control arm also you can see that it is off balance as it clicks

i dont know if the bearings are failing in the tranny it is LSD with about 85k on it my max is a 98 with 200k but i replaced the tranny about 185k

also i hate aftermarket new axles but i was in a bind and it was the fastest i could get at the time(when i replaced the tranny and upgraded to LSD). I cant figure out how to word this search if someone else has already posted about it...

 

Are you lowered? If so, how low?

 

would u describe the noise as "something popping out of a joint". Maybe the ball joints of the control arm???

 

not lowered, i can see the inner cv joint with the car up and tire off with the control arm all the way down it looks unbalanced but if i jack up the control arm to normal (as if car was holding its own weight) the axle is level and it makes no noise. it is a clunking noise as the axle/wheel spins

 

i replaced control arms about 1.5 yrs ago so new ball joints, they looked fine i checked anyways.

i feel like if it was ball joint the pop would be once when loading/unloading that side this is like a speed sensitive repetitive clunk.

 

I would check the ball joint nut with a torque wrench with a jack under the control arm. Might also wanna check your wheel bearing for play Push the wheel in and out with the tire on. It shouldn't move.

 

so wheel bearings do not have any play, if the ball joint was bad i could allow the control arm to drop down too low? is this the idea?

 

i have refreshed mostly every piece of the front suspension it is very tight no play holds the road well. Much better after control arms and SFC and swaybar end links and bushings

 

i found some info from other forums saying LSD makes noises, anyone else with LSD chime in?

 

The only noises Ive had from my VLSD was input shaft noise, which was a whirring sound, and the diff bearings would whine while down shifting. No clunking or popping sounds though. That came from my axles.

 

yea im thinking that the aftermarket axle is a POS, i should be able to let the wheels spin with the control arms all the way extended down with out over extending the inner cv joint right?

the stock axle on the right side does just fine ...its longer tho thats why i wasnt sure.

 

Aftermarket axles are hit or miss a lot of times. Yes, you can lift the car and spin the wheels without any problems.

 

There's been a couple of threads here that say Autozone axles suck. I just (as in yesterday) replaced my axle with "tough one" or something from Advanced Auto. They seem pretty alright.

My ball joint was also bad. I didn't replace it because I didn't know at the time. Long story short, you know if you ball joint is bad. Mine would randomly **** up (for lack of a better term) and the entire car would swerve 1 way. 1-2 seconds later it would settle again and swerve back.

 

i was thinkin i'd buy a used one from the junk yard (assuming it looks orginal) and see how long it lasts... then if it dies ship it to marty to make it a raxle!

 

I'm going to say an axle even if you aren't lowered. I would make the investment and buy Raxles. They'll last quite a bit at stock height

 

yeah i think im gonna keep and eye out for a good core that i can send marty.

 

dude the axles in this car suck. All of them do. I replaced them like my job. I'm already on my 4th set loll Never been lowered too, and silly Raxles wouldn't of helped either. They mainly go so fast because of the boots prematurely tearing. I honestly don't know how they tear so easy and so fast but its pathetic. (this is why Raxles wouldn't help because they use the same Buna or Urethane boots at OEM or possible less) for me its always been the boot. Now my current ones are torn at the Ring not in the curve shockingly and they were brand new "gsp" ones from CAP auto and they were my last limited replacement, so what ever sounds they make I am just gonna deal lol

 

the stock ones worked just fine... i still have the factory original passenger side and the driver side was also perfect when i pulled it, i replaced it because i switched to LSD tranny and needed it

 

well i mean it has wear on the boots they are 16yrs old! but they are not broken still holding up. since i've had so many problems with drivers side i may pull the passenger side and reboot it.

 

it was the wheel bearing! changed em out myself with bearing puller/press tool and its perfect now!

 

i never got any of the normal bad wheel bearing issues, i did find other people with this issue but they had squealing ect.