I've just installed my Eibachs and...Wow!
#1
I've just installed my Eibachs and...Wow!
Yes, that's right maximorgers...I confess I had my doubts and concerns.
**Warning: A lot to read ahead!! **
What I did not want:
-Curb scrapper
-Bouncy ride
-Ghetto drop
What I wanted (In that order):
-Reduce body roll
-Increase high speed stability
-Reduce dive & squat
-Minimize wheel gap
I had the idea of a mild drop to achieve my "wants", lingering on my mind but struggling with the "Not wants", and the price of the springs itself.
On a local buy/sell/trade webpage I found a guy who was selling his Eibach Springs (They were installed on a 98 maxima, same year of my ride) for aprox $80 USD, they look in great shape, so I called him ask about the ride quality, improvement in handling, etc. BUT did not buy them. A few days later he called me and ask me how much I've got since anyways, the springs were just collecting dust in his backyard...Quick thought, I offered $ 40 USD, he accepted, I picked them up an hour later.
Called my mech, and he quoted $ 60 USD for all four corners (Including the front strut mounts, that I already had pending for replacement)...He explained that when removing the springs the strut mounts are removed, so he didn't charge more. Oh, and he also included the alignment
I was at the shop at 8:00 am, and was out at 9:30 am (The beauty of the right tools/equipment and experience!)
All of you suspension freaks must be wondering: "Did you install the springs on stock struts / shocks? " YES I DID
.
I have warranty on the shocks / struts so, I can wait until they blow up.
My mech told me that my rear shocks were already shot (The shock shaft went into the shock housing when he release the shaft by hand), so I guess it's going to be sooner than later
.
Once they lower my max to the ground, I noticed that the drop was JUST wat I wanted, not too low, but sufficient to improve the wheel gap. I like the mencing stance
my white max on 16" SE rims (205/60) has...I bet with a 2004 Max or 350Z 18" rims it would look sweeter, but let's walk one step at a time
.
I was expecting a choppy ride, even to feel more harshness, but I was thrilled to find out that the ride quality actually got better...And yes, I drove on perfectly fine roads and on horrible craked, pothole infested portions as well...The ride quality improved, period.
From the moment I started to move I felt a more solid chassis, like it was working at the unison with the suspension. I give it some gas, squat is dramatically reduced...I came to a red light and hit the brakes firmly, and noticed that the dive was also reduced greatly...I get on my first corner and the body roll was there, but tamed (Great for me, since I didn't want an overly stiff feel on turns)
When going over bumps, I felt a bounce but it was controlled, just one motion and over, and actually some of the rattles that I had were minimized as well. Take into account that I fabricated & installed SUBFRAME COLLARS (I went with the big washer approach), that might help a lot for the solid sensation. I went ahead and did some lane changes at 40 MPH, and it was PERFECT, no body roll, just quick reaction.
I went 60-65 MPH on a long, good shape, no bumps straight road, and the stability was definetly there. I always thought that Nissan was wrong by giving a grocery getter some *****, but not the suspension to hold them. Now, I can go faster and confidently...Even my wife was pleased with the ride/stance/handling, and that's saying A LOT.
Opinions are like elbows, everybody has one...But on my personal experience, these EIBACH springs worked out pretty well.
With these install, I realized 2 things that I didn't know: My steering rack bushings are toast, and so my rear shocks...I already quoted the steering rack bushings: $ 80 USD for parts & labor.
So, in final words, I'm very pleased with my $ 100 USD suspension mod
and I do highly recommend it. I'm in Baja, Mexico...If you live near the border, you can save a lot of greens by paying a professional shop in Mexico. Instead of the ridiculously high hour rates in the US.
Peace!
**Warning: A lot to read ahead!! **
What I did not want:
-Curb scrapper
-Bouncy ride
-Ghetto drop
What I wanted (In that order):
-Reduce body roll
-Increase high speed stability
-Reduce dive & squat
-Minimize wheel gap
I had the idea of a mild drop to achieve my "wants", lingering on my mind but struggling with the "Not wants", and the price of the springs itself.
On a local buy/sell/trade webpage I found a guy who was selling his Eibach Springs (They were installed on a 98 maxima, same year of my ride) for aprox $80 USD, they look in great shape, so I called him ask about the ride quality, improvement in handling, etc. BUT did not buy them. A few days later he called me and ask me how much I've got since anyways, the springs were just collecting dust in his backyard...Quick thought, I offered $ 40 USD, he accepted, I picked them up an hour later.
Called my mech, and he quoted $ 60 USD for all four corners (Including the front strut mounts, that I already had pending for replacement)...He explained that when removing the springs the strut mounts are removed, so he didn't charge more. Oh, and he also included the alignment
I was at the shop at 8:00 am, and was out at 9:30 am (The beauty of the right tools/equipment and experience!)
All of you suspension freaks must be wondering: "Did you install the springs on stock struts / shocks? " YES I DID
![Embarrassment](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
I have warranty on the shocks / struts so, I can wait until they blow up.
My mech told me that my rear shocks were already shot (The shock shaft went into the shock housing when he release the shaft by hand), so I guess it's going to be sooner than later
![bawling](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bawling.gif)
Once they lower my max to the ground, I noticed that the drop was JUST wat I wanted, not too low, but sufficient to improve the wheel gap. I like the mencing stance
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Embarrassment](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
I was expecting a choppy ride, even to feel more harshness, but I was thrilled to find out that the ride quality actually got better...And yes, I drove on perfectly fine roads and on horrible craked, pothole infested portions as well...The ride quality improved, period.
From the moment I started to move I felt a more solid chassis, like it was working at the unison with the suspension. I give it some gas, squat is dramatically reduced...I came to a red light and hit the brakes firmly, and noticed that the dive was also reduced greatly...I get on my first corner and the body roll was there, but tamed (Great for me, since I didn't want an overly stiff feel on turns)
When going over bumps, I felt a bounce but it was controlled, just one motion and over, and actually some of the rattles that I had were minimized as well. Take into account that I fabricated & installed SUBFRAME COLLARS (I went with the big washer approach), that might help a lot for the solid sensation. I went ahead and did some lane changes at 40 MPH, and it was PERFECT, no body roll, just quick reaction.
I went 60-65 MPH on a long, good shape, no bumps straight road, and the stability was definetly there. I always thought that Nissan was wrong by giving a grocery getter some *****, but not the suspension to hold them. Now, I can go faster and confidently...Even my wife was pleased with the ride/stance/handling, and that's saying A LOT.
Opinions are like elbows, everybody has one...But on my personal experience, these EIBACH springs worked out pretty well.
With these install, I realized 2 things that I didn't know: My steering rack bushings are toast, and so my rear shocks...I already quoted the steering rack bushings: $ 80 USD for parts & labor.
So, in final words, I'm very pleased with my $ 100 USD suspension mod
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Peace!
#2
Awesome. I had basically the same criteria when I bought my Tein H-techs. Im pretty sure the drop is almost the same between our springs. They are not as low as I like but there was reasons I didnt slam it. Now wheres the pics?
#3
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Here they are:
Before Eibachs:
http://s899.photobucket.com/user/e34...73cb8.jpg.html
After Eibach install:
http://s899.photobucket.com/user/e34...f6b37.jpg.html
#9
Couldn't safely say because my struts were all leaking when I got my Maxima @ 100k.
Had Monroe on there for a short time..lots better than that.
I went with the blues because of the hype and they are safe with Eibachs.
And a big
for a RSB!!!
HUGE difference in feel/control.
Its been said before, but it's the best bang for buck mod next to y-pipe for our cars.
Had Monroe on there for a short time..lots better than that.
I went with the blues because of the hype and they are safe with Eibachs.
And a big
![+1](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/+1.gif)
HUGE difference in feel/control.
Its been said before, but it's the best bang for buck mod next to y-pipe for our cars.
#10
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
So let me get this straight...
You've got bad rack bushings, bad rear shocks, and your just put a more aggressive spring on and you think it rides better?
You my friend are out of your mind...
And on top of that, you've already got to do the rear over again when you get new shocks and most likely the front as well because you should do all 4 corners. So basically the whole job over again.
You mechanic is pretty cheap, perhaps he knows you'll be back...
FWI - A more aggressive springs needs a firmer shock to keep it under control. KYB GR2 or the like is what you need to look at.
You've got bad rack bushings, bad rear shocks, and your just put a more aggressive spring on and you think it rides better?
You my friend are out of your mind...
And on top of that, you've already got to do the rear over again when you get new shocks and most likely the front as well because you should do all 4 corners. So basically the whole job over again.
You mechanic is pretty cheap, perhaps he knows you'll be back...
FWI - A more aggressive springs needs a firmer shock to keep it under control. KYB GR2 or the like is what you need to look at.
Last edited by njmaxseltd; 04-27-2013 at 02:37 PM.
#11
****ing hated my eibachs.
They seemed excellent for a day because of my placebo effect. The very next dat hated them and wanted to get rid of them. Report back in like a week
Then again I live in NYC and even the best roads here are shyt conpared to other states
They seemed excellent for a day because of my placebo effect. The very next dat hated them and wanted to get rid of them. Report back in like a week
Then again I live in NYC and even the best roads here are shyt conpared to other states
#14
So let me get this straight...
You've got bad rack bushings, bad rear shocks, and your just put a more aggressive spring on and you think it rides better?
You my friend are out of your mind...
And on top of that, you've already got to do the rear over again when you get new shocks and most likely the front as well because you should do all 4 corners. So basically the whole job over again.
You mechanic is pretty cheap, perhaps he knows you'll be back...
FWI - A more aggressive springs needs a firmer shock to keep it under control. KYB GR2 or the like is what you need to look at.
You've got bad rack bushings, bad rear shocks, and your just put a more aggressive spring on and you think it rides better?
You my friend are out of your mind...
And on top of that, you've already got to do the rear over again when you get new shocks and most likely the front as well because you should do all 4 corners. So basically the whole job over again.
You mechanic is pretty cheap, perhaps he knows you'll be back...
FWI - A more aggressive springs needs a firmer shock to keep it under control. KYB GR2 or the like is what you need to look at.
A) I didn´t know my rack bushings nor my shocks were shot until this install...
B) I replaced the strut mounts as they were shot as well, that could have helped on the ïmprovement¨effect...I´ll give you that.
C)I´m conscious that I have to go again...Like I said, my shocks need replacement sooner than later.
D) My mech has always given me great prices and excellent service...Why wouldn´t I come back when I need to
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
E) I know I need better struts / shocks, I´ve been doing my homework on the forum...For know there´s no moneys for Konis or Tokicos.
And yes, FOR ME, the ride is better...I may hate it later, but as for know, I´m pleased...I´ll update my feelings for the eibachs in the near future...
Peace!
#15
You got it, I´ll do that.
#16
I´ve read horror stories about the RSB (Tail happy behaviour).
Obviously, I read your sig, and I know you have aftermarket springs & RSB...Did you install your springs first and then the RSB? If you did, once with the stiffer springs, did the RSB was a noticeable/worthy improvement?
Obviously, I read your sig, and I know you have aftermarket springs & RSB...Did you install your springs first and then the RSB? If you did, once with the stiffer springs, did the RSB was a noticeable/worthy improvement?
#17
Couldn't safely say because my struts were all leaking when I got my Maxima @ 100k.
Had Monroe on there for a short time..lots better than that.
I went with the blues because of the hype and they are safe with Eibachs.
And a big
for a RSB!!!
HUGE difference in feel/control.
Its been said before, but it's the best bang for buck mod next to y-pipe for our cars.
Had Monroe on there for a short time..lots better than that.
I went with the blues because of the hype and they are safe with Eibachs.
And a big
![+1](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/+1.gif)
HUGE difference in feel/control.
Its been said before, but it's the best bang for buck mod next to y-pipe for our cars.
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
#18
Me too. I did H&Rs and no way would I do coilovers for NYC roads.
#19
RSB is not really necessary on a lowered car. It can make the tail too hot. I've been there with H&Rs and tokico blues + RSB with my previous Max. My present I30 has H&Rs with KYB-GR2s and it will get an FSTB and that's it. I corner like superman now and never have to worry about the tail coming out in hard cornering. The tail does come out, but it does it very gracefully.
#20
RSB is not really necessary on a lowered car. It can make the tail too hot. I've been there with H&Rs and tokico blues + RSB with my previous Max. My present I30 has H&Rs with KYB-GR2s and it will get an FSTB and that's it. I corner like superman now and never have to worry about the tail coming out in hard cornering. The tail does come out, but it does it very gracefully.
I've been in a Maxima with coilovers before and after a RSB; I noticed a difference sitting in the passenger seat.
If your having trouble with tail hop, slow down or learn your car's limits.
The only time I've had the rear tires hop around in an unpredictable way, was when I had a blown DS rear strut.
4th gens will always have the "hop risk" because of we don't have independent suspension in the rear.
That's the whole reason the RSB does so well in our cars.
My car had body roll that caused me to not feel as confident in corners and twisty roads.
After the RSB install, I felt like my car was riding on rails.
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
IMO, the FSTB does the least of any suspension mod our cars have.
Just looks good.
![hide](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/hide.gif)
#21
It's nice how much better the car handles with just doing the springs. Looks good!
As for the RSB....I had it on my 4th gen with H&R's & AGX's. I later took it off and put it on my 5th gen (first mod on it) For my style of driving, I really didn't notice much of a decrease in handling after taking it off my 96.
As for the RSB....I had it on my 4th gen with H&R's & AGX's. I later took it off and put it on my 5th gen (first mod on it) For my style of driving, I really didn't notice much of a decrease in handling after taking it off my 96.
#24
Many people don't realize that there was already an OEM RSB inside the multi-link beam suspension. And Fakie Farkerton, I'm talking about the rear end sliding out, not popping out due to a bump then loss of grip.
#25
I have eibachs and tokikos. Outstanding combination and I enjoy driving the car far more than stock.
However, if the op is on stock damaged shocks/struts, they will not be able to properly compensate for the Eibachs. Get some aftermarket on there and it will make a world of difference.
The only downsides I have experienced is worse bump steer and there are certain highway overpass bumps that cause me more bounce than I would like. I don't recall what my tokikos are set at though.
However, if the op is on stock damaged shocks/struts, they will not be able to properly compensate for the Eibachs. Get some aftermarket on there and it will make a world of difference.
The only downsides I have experienced is worse bump steer and there are certain highway overpass bumps that cause me more bounce than I would like. I don't recall what my tokikos are set at though.
#26
Your right. The FSTB does the least, but it does work. When you take a hard corner, like say a hard left, your right shock tower will flex/bend a little more due to the greater G forces than the left shock tower. This affects alignment and steering. With the FSTB installed and doing the same hard left, the FSTB forces both shock towers to flex or bend at the same rate, keeping the front wheels parallel, and making your steering feel better, more sure footed. This translates into higher confidence throwing your car into a corner.
#27
Your right. The FSTB does the least, but it does work. When you take a hard corner, like say a hard left, your right shock tower will flex/bend a little more due to the greater G forces than the left shock tower. This affects alignment and steering. With the FSTB installed and doing the same hard left, the FSTB forces both shock towers to flex or bend at the same rate, keeping the front wheels parallel, and making your steering feel better, more sure footed. This translates into higher confidence throwing your car into a corner.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...llars-new.html
Last edited by Fakie J Farkerton; 04-29-2013 at 08:46 AM.
#29
Last Saturday I went to "La Rumorosa", it's a mountain road that goes up 1.3 Kilometers, full of tight & medium curves, plus a killer incline.
On the long stretch before the "climb" the car felt bumpy, but I credit that to the condition of that road section (Cracks & tad marks), I was doing 70 MPH, using Cruise Control...My wife and 11 yr old daughter when along with me, as it is usual for people living in Mexicali to go up La Rumorosa and have breakfast in "La cabaña del Abuelo" (The grandpa cabin), or to have some tacos...
Now in the curves, the pavement was in much better condition, and I immediately noticed that the car felt more planted, a little body roll, but nothing to make me or my family sway (If that's the correct word). Going up I didn't hear the tires squeal once. I have to mention that I wasn't too agressive on the curves or pedal to the metal, since I had my family with me (You know how it is)...I was trying to drive spirited (35 mph on hairpins, 40-50 MPH on long curves), just to get a feel of the car...But definitely, I'm sure that I could have taken those curves faster. The only thing that I felt it was mnissing was more control when changing curve direction, coming out of a curve (I guess Koni's will fix that...?)
As an update, the ride on bumpy sections is getting tiresome, as the medium bumps send vibrations to the whole car...The little ones are not felt, just heard.
I was considering DIY subframe connectors to reinforce the chassis...Will this help the ride and handling? What will be the effect given I'm riding on Eibachs springs?
For the record I have 205/60R16 on SE rims, stock struts, rear shocks are shot.
Thanks for the feedback!
On the long stretch before the "climb" the car felt bumpy, but I credit that to the condition of that road section (Cracks & tad marks), I was doing 70 MPH, using Cruise Control...My wife and 11 yr old daughter when along with me, as it is usual for people living in Mexicali to go up La Rumorosa and have breakfast in "La cabaña del Abuelo" (The grandpa cabin), or to have some tacos...
Now in the curves, the pavement was in much better condition, and I immediately noticed that the car felt more planted, a little body roll, but nothing to make me or my family sway (If that's the correct word). Going up I didn't hear the tires squeal once. I have to mention that I wasn't too agressive on the curves or pedal to the metal, since I had my family with me (You know how it is)...I was trying to drive spirited (35 mph on hairpins, 40-50 MPH on long curves), just to get a feel of the car...But definitely, I'm sure that I could have taken those curves faster. The only thing that I felt it was mnissing was more control when changing curve direction, coming out of a curve (I guess Koni's will fix that...?)
As an update, the ride on bumpy sections is getting tiresome, as the medium bumps send vibrations to the whole car...The little ones are not felt, just heard.
I was considering DIY subframe connectors to reinforce the chassis...Will this help the ride and handling? What will be the effect given I'm riding on Eibachs springs?
For the record I have 205/60R16 on SE rims, stock struts, rear shocks are shot.
Thanks for the feedback!
#30
Also, you mention 205/60-16...OEM is supposed to be 215/55-16. You are running tires that are not only thinner but taller then stock. Taller and thinner tires hurt performance. For better you always want shorter and wider.
#32
#34
What's the best strut/shocks combo for the Eibachs? I know Eibach are stiff, but which brand would "soften" the ride at leat a bit? I was thinking on Konis in front, and SAGGS (Ebay shocks) in the rear...Don't get me wrong, I love the handling, minor potholes/cracks are not felt (It glides over them opposed to stock ride), but medium potholes are an issue sometimes, mostly when I don't see them ahead until it's too late...
Maybe I'm just being picky, 'cause my wife still likes the ride, but I still want to improve the overall feel.
Maybe I'm just being picky, 'cause my wife still likes the ride, but I still want to improve the overall feel.
#36
I would recommend that you not to go with the KYB AGX's. It seems that you want to have good ride quality. The AGX's wont give you that. Temperature will effect them pretty noticeably. If adjustability is important to you, I would go with the Illuminas.
#37
Thanks for the feedback...I did read horror stories about the KYB AGX's...I'll start saving for the struts/shocks, before they all go "out". It seems the battle is between Konis (Good reviews across the forum) & the illuminas...Either way, I need at least 450 bux...
#38
I have KYB-GR2s with my H&Rs....in my previous maxima I had Tokico blues with H&Rs. The GR2s are stiffer than the blues. I did notice, however, wtih the HR/Blues combo, that the rear end had a slight tendency to bounce. Just a little, but it was there. With the GR2s there is none of that.
That bounce could have been because I had more unsprung weight (RSB.) This time around I left out the RSB, and I gotta say, with HR/GR2s I run into corners and carve mountain canyons like superman. The HR/GR2 suspension gives me so much confidence that I feel I can just throw the car into any corner and the car will handle it. Of course it will slide occaisionally, but the slide is relatively smooth and predictable that I can easily correct for it.
When it comes to handling, IMHO, that's what its all about, how the car handles when it has reached its limit, that graceful break from the pavement. My car also has stock, OEM, SE wheels and tires. 215/55-16 wheels/tires can do some real work on a sport/aftermarket suspension.
That bounce could have been because I had more unsprung weight (RSB.) This time around I left out the RSB, and I gotta say, with HR/GR2s I run into corners and carve mountain canyons like superman. The HR/GR2 suspension gives me so much confidence that I feel I can just throw the car into any corner and the car will handle it. Of course it will slide occaisionally, but the slide is relatively smooth and predictable that I can easily correct for it.
When it comes to handling, IMHO, that's what its all about, how the car handles when it has reached its limit, that graceful break from the pavement. My car also has stock, OEM, SE wheels and tires. 215/55-16 wheels/tires can do some real work on a sport/aftermarket suspension.
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