Lucidity

I recently purchased a used Maxima, and when I test drove it she ran like a top! I haven't even driven it 40 miles since I purchased it and I'm having some "serious" problems. On my way home the other day I started to notice acceleration hesitation whenever I got to about 20 MPH, but after 2-3 seconds it would catch itself and resume normal acceleration. Suddenly this hesitation worsened and my car lost power steering, power brakes, the CD spit out of the radio and it stalled. I turned the car off, took the key out of the ignition and quickly started the car back up. The car started fine, but still was having SERIOUS acceleration problems, it locked up and stalled 2 more times on my 10 mile drive home (barely making it back home). The last mile I had no power and was lucky it was all down hill, and I just coasted home and pulled in the driveway like that. The next day when I got in my car, I noticed all the dash lights were on without my key even being in the ignition, when I turn on the ignition the dash lights dim. The engine currently will not start, but when it did start yesterday it seemed as though it was having power surges because the RPM gauge kept spurratically bouncing from 0 to 2-3k and the dash lights/radio kept turning off and on.

I used the Maxima's ECU to diagnose the codes, and these are what I received :

Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor - 0402
Inhibitor Switch - 1101
EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit - 0807
Mass Air Flow Sensor - 0102

This struck me as weird because I just replaced the MAF senor last night, cost be a nice $280 to get the part too. I replaced it because on my grandfather's code reader that was one of the only codes that came up, but he has to leave and took that with him so I used to ECU to diagnose itself. I'm looking for help with this problem, any ideas on what it could be or why the MAF code is still coming up after being replaced?

If it helps, most of the fuses that are located on the panel in the interior near the steering wheel are without power. They are not blown, I checked, but they have no power going to them.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Most of the fuses will not have any power to them while the ignition switch is off. When the ignition switch is in the ON position, 3 relays are energized and they put power to the fuses.

Codes 11 01 (P0705) and 08 07 (P0443) would not cause any problems with engine operation.

Code 01 02 (P0100) MAF will mess with the engine. While you did replace it, new parts can go bad right away, so you can't rule it out especially since you have the code for that. Have you checked that you got the wire harness connector connector plugged on all the way? Take it off and look at the pins in the connector and verify that none have been pushed in/out of their proper position. Look at both the wire harness connector and the MAF sensor.

Code 04 02 (P0180). Congratulations. You are the 1st person that I can recall saying that they have gotten this code. I don't think this would be causing your problems.

What I wonder is if you might have blown the main fusable link. It is under the hood in the box by the battery right in the middle. It is either 120 amp for Cali cars or 140 amp for federal cars. Also check the 30 amp "IGN SW" fuse. this send power to the ignition switch and then to the relays that provide power to the dashboard fuses.

bprice92

iTrader: (2)

$280...yikes. Inspect the air intake assembly. The MAF is pretty sensitive to any small breaks or cracks in the intake.

Personally my trouble areas have been around the "accordian" looking tube.

I'd recommend cleaning the IACV, TB, EGR. Check/replace air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, pcv valve. Click on the "how tos" at the top and you can find writeups for these. Then youve got all those "fun" codes to take care of.. Searching here and using the FSM will be youre new bestfriends

Lucidity

If it helps any, it is a 97 Nissan Maxima, GLE.

My father is the one doing the work on the car, and he says the MAF is connected properly, and the wiring harness connector is plugged in all the way, and the old MAF sensor is still functional as well apparently. So there's no reason for this code to be coming up, is there?

Is it possible that the battery or alternator is pushing too much power through and harming my electronics?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You can check the battery and alternator output, definitely won't hurt to check. You need a voltmeter, a must have tool if you are going to work on cars made after about 1990.

With the car off, check the battery voltage. It should be between 12 and 12.5 volts. Start the car and check the voltage again. It should be 14 to 14.3 volts.

Lucidity

Major breakthrough, I noticed there were 2 wires that were corroded and disconnected. Wire brushed them, re-attached them, and whoever redid the alternator didn't ground the one wire, it was just attached to a floating bracket. All of my dash lights have turned off, my acceleration hesitation is gone. It runs just fine again, I used the ECU to find the codes again and 0505 is the only code that reads, and if I remember right 0505 is no problem

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Good work! Paying attention to small details can obviously have big payoffs. Too bad the previous owner or their mechanic didn't.

Lucidity

Time to give this Maxima the love and care it deserves. The fuel filter looks absolutely DISGUSTING, like it hasn't been changed in 5 years. That and the back 2 tires being different sizes are my next endeavor

Got the detailing guy coming later in the week, and got my mechanic giving it a Tune-Up tomorrow, getting the AC fixed in it as well. ^_^

Phromethius

I'm jealous! Man I've been on this forum for a long time just trying to keep my Max running strong. And it has but how I wish I could get that nasty oxidation off the roof and finally drop it tastefully an inch or two. Welcome to the Org man, this place will be a great source for everything on your car.

Start a build thread and post pics. Everyone needs more pics.