new is $60, reman is $60-$90+75core. why new is cheaper than reman? does reman mean rebuilt stock assembly? which one is less garbage?

 

If it is from autozone, they are all garbage. How bad the garbage smells is the only discussion.

In general, more people have problems with the re-manufactured axles. I searched and read many threads about axles when I needed to replace mine. The GSP brand seems to be the worst. A fair number of people seemed to have good luck with NAPA auto parts axles, so I bought the NAPA brand (they have other brands) and bought new, not re-manufactured. So far, so good after about 10 months and about 9000 miles.

 

never had a problem with any replacement axle, including autozone (i believe i've had 2 from autozone).

 

Could it be the bigger wheels causing axles to go bad more often?

 

mine is on tiny 15'

 

My shop does a bunch of axles. We only use the new ones. Reman usually means problems. Bigger wheels are more likely to cause wheel bearing and alignment issues.

 

I had my replaced 4 months ago and they are brand new gps brand from advance no problems ,anyway buy new and save yourself a headache.also lifetime replacement

 

depends on the condition of the old car & how long you intend to drive it.
i put remfg axles is mine about 4 years ago, already replaced once without many miles.
no charge except my labor.

 

This.

 

Parts with lifetime warranty seems like a good bet.

But...here are counterpoints because of risks/labors with the procedure

-lengthy labor/hours
-requires open other working parts,
method1: to open ball joint and tie-rod (which contain fragile rubber parts)
method2: drop lower control-arm and disconnect stabilizer nut (high torqued nuts/bolts indicate safety parts. Control arm's 4 nuts are rated at 275lb/ft)
-wheel alignment recommended afterward (no kidding my car feels worse after multiple visits to local tire - shop)
-open parts which exposes normally sealed transmission unit(seal & fluid), and risk of adding dirt/soil/foreign objects into the unit.
-if part is defective, is it safe to operate?

I have a decision to make and need to make it soon.

Thank you all for your advices/inputs!

 

Having replaced 3 axles, I can tell you that both Method 1 and Method 2 are not necessary.

Loosen the axle nut (36mm) before jacking up the car if you don't have an impact wrench.
Remove the brake line from the strut, remove brake caliper and support it. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE!
Remove the axle nut.
Remove the 2 lower strut mounting bolts.
Push end of axle out of steering knuckle.
Remove axle from differential.

 

I have had to replace a few different new axles after just a couple months use. It appears the manufacturer didn't feel the need for grease on some of the builds(boot intact and no grease inside)! Purchased from Oreilley's.

 

Perfect, i like this. It is simple that I can do n times. I have an air impact so it should help me a bit. The ds axle was only 2 years ago so rust should be minimal. Based on feedbacks so far, I plan to go with new unit (probably from napa). With lifetime alignment purchased recently for new struts, I think I am well covered.

Thanks!

 

Wow that's no quality control for you. My moms max drivers side outer just ripped open as I knew it would. Since I bought the car, you can hear the boots rubbing and making a low pitched whining noise when you go at a slow speed. Spraying it with silicone spray stopped it briefly but decided to go to dealer today and pick up both inner and outer boot bit and will rebuild the axle myself.