I have to replace a fairly new rear brake caliper after driving to work in torrential rain this morning. I have read many posts about 4th gen. Max's with rear brake caliper issues. Could it be that the rotors have worn thinner causing the piston to travel further out or are the calipers just junk?

 

First, what symptoms are you experiencing to make you think your caliper is junk?

It is easy enough to check your calipers. Jack it up and see if the wheel spins freely. Or Pull the caliper off and make sure the piston turns back in as it should. If not, your caliper is junk. I bought a caliper from Advance Auto that was no good so it is possible that your "new" one is no good. I guess it is possible for the rotor to wear down but if the pad was dragging enough to wear the rotor down, you would smell it and I don't think they could wear down enough to make the caliper have to travel too far.

 

Thanks Ryan,
I've replaced calipers in the past. I was just wondering if other people had issues with rear calipers. I noticed that my car felt like it was dragging and when I stopped, I saw smoke coming from the rear wheel. I replaced this caliper not too long ago and have to replace it again.

 

Yeah I have come to the realization that the aftermarket remans of these calipers are junk. My next freeze up will take me to the dealer.

 

Refurbished calipers can be poor quality. I've replaced my refurbished rear calipers twice and front ones once at autozone. When exchanging my last rear calipers at autozone I tested them before painting and mounting them. I brought a pair of needle nose pliers to the store and tried turning the piston after pushing it out using the parking brake lever. The first two I tested took great force to turn the piston back. Finally the 3rd one moved easily so I installed it. If they freeze again the autozone manager will give me a refurbishing kit for free and pay for the new piston I order.

 

I agree some cals are crap but more often than not it seems people are not greasing their slide pins. Easy mistake to make and it matters for the cal to function properly

 

Check out this story about my calipers...

My e-brake did not work when I got the car...it basically only held one wheel from moving. So, I replaced pads hoping that would fix my ebrake issue before replacing the cables. Well, when I did the pads, I realized the piston would not turn back in (seized up). So, I went to Advance and bought a caliper. I got home and realized that the one they sold me was a core return that was accidentally re-stocked. I drove back to Advance and bought the last one they had. I got home, put it on and all was good (so I thought). Still no ebrake. So a few days later I decided it was time to do my rotors all the way around. Tried to turn the piston back on my "new" caliper and it just spun...would not go back in. Called Advance AGAIN and told them the issue. A friend of mine works there so he had another caliper delivered to my house since I had no car. Caliper shows up a short time later and I put it on and the delivery guy leaves. After bleeding the brakes and closing up the bleeder screw, I test out the brakes and noticed brake fluid pumping out of the caliper. WTF??!! So I call Advance again on the same day. They tell me they don't have another caliper in stock and it will be a day before they can get one. UNACCEPTABLE!! I ask them to call another store and see if they can do a swap between them when another caliper comes in. He says "yup no problem". They deliver yet ANOTHER caliper to me and YAY it works ANNNND i have my e-brake back.

Moral of the story if you read the whole thing, Sometimes parts store items SUCK!!

 

Has anyone noticed the same caliper freezing up? The one I have to replace is the passenger rear. Just replaced this caliper within this year.

 

14 years, 200,000 miles, never had a caliper issue.
Check the guide pins, I've had a few of those freeze up. You've got to keep them lubed up.

 

You are lucky and still on your OEMs...but as 2brosgixxer just stated how many he had to go through to find a proper one is down right ridiculous...

 

I'm on my 4th set of rears. I drove for quite awhile with only front breaks till the back rotors just rusted. I just put another brand new set on with new pads and rotors. I guess I should take it apart and grease the slides, I never gave that any consideration.

 

If you're greasing your pins for the first time then read this HowTo on reconditioning the front brakes. The front and rear brake guide pins are greased the same.

Brakes - Reconditioning

When I first greased the rear brake guide pins years back I put in excessive grease which wore out the outer pad in months. After inserting the brake grease push the guide pins in all the way to expel excess grease. Do this without the pin boots.

 

Think I found the problem. I was all set to replace the caliper when I thought it was the e-brake cable being stuck. Tried pulling on the cable, after I unhooked it from the bracket, but it wouldn't budge. Looked at the other rear caliper setup and the amount of e-brake cable showing was correct. I decided to take a look at the guide pins; one would move, the other wouldn't. Had to use a screwdriver and hammer to coax that pin out. When I got it out, it didn't match the other pin. Instead of the shaft being the same size as the working side, the stuck pin had a tapered end with a rubber thing around it. Not sure how this got in there since I do all my own brake work and don't remember seeing this oddball pin. So I removed the rubber piece, cleaned up both pins, greased them, put them back in and they both move the same. Took it for a spin and did not smell any brakes burning. Took it to work and everything seems to be ok. Now I have to adjust my e-brake cable.

 

Keep the pins greased and flush your fluid every two years. I am lucky mine are not frozen yet, but I dont live in the rust belt.
I bought my car with over 200K so don't know if they are oe, but I plan to keep the current ones for a log time.

 

First time that I am seeing this and did not know this information. you learn something new even years later. I recently bought the OEM front seal kit along with guide pins so I know this info now about how much grease needs to go in there.

 

Had better luck buying parts online. Amazing how much you can save on parts that way.