Howdy, the boot on the outer end of my passenger axle peeled back. It isn't making noise and I have been packing it with grease. My previous car had an AutoZone rebuilt axle which lasted a whole .three weeks before.snapping and have no desire to go that route. Are there viable alternatives? It isn't critical yet but would like to be prepared. Thank you much!

 

You referring to the suspension axle?
I got mine from the junkyard 2yrs ago
and it's still holding up. Forgot how much I paid.

 

Napa

 

Keep the original if you can. A boot kit is cheap and available at most auto parts stores. Get the better boot, don't go cheap. Clean the joint really good and repack it when you replace the boot. It's a messy job, but for under 50 bucks you should be back on the road with the original axle.

 

got my napa axle ( both sides put on 3 years ago ) and no issues at all. second thread i've seen about this in 2 weeks, make sure to put on new oem seal(s) with it.

 

If your lowered no axle will last long.

 

CV joint, sorry about that. Its stock far as I know, came with the car. I do have a grease fun, so repacking might be cleaner that way. Thank you much, could probably redo.the boot myself, replacing an axle is deeper than I want to go myself.

 

if the boots torn open, repacking with grease isn't going to do much as the grease will just just come out and muck up your wheel. i drove around with a torn boot that dried out completely for 3 years until the axle just gave out. i replaced the entire axle both sides and never looked back.

 

It isn't torn, the band broke and the boot peeled back a couple inches, thinking boot and band replacement.

 

It comes as a kit from the dealership with all new clamps, retaining clips, and grease. One thing I did notice when I bought it was the inner grease was different from the outer when I bought it from the dealer.

 

Depends on how low. Slammed yes, they will be done in short time.

 

Could I just replace the clip after pulling the boot up?

 

Depends on the condition of the boot, how long it has been that way and how much damage has already been done to the joint. It's an easy thing to try. I would clean out and regrease the joint before doing that. Very little to loose - worst case is that it only lasts a little more time and you have to replace the axle anyway. I got a passenger side axle from NAPA in 2007 at 140K miles; still going strong 6.5 years later at 245K mile. Got a driver side from Advance in late 2009 at 191K mile (it was a Sunday and NAPA was closed) - it also is still doing fine. Good luck.

 

Okay, car will be drivable Sunday. An alleged mechanic dropped the spring and piston of my timing chain tensioner in the cover. Nightmare getting the cover off. New water pump which was the original problem.

 

I'm in the same boat. I replaced the passenger side with an Advanced Auto axle, no problems as of yet. But now suddenly the driver side boot decides to rip. Should I buy a boot instead? I hear a slight click on full turns but not loud.

 

aftermarket axle is junk. the whole axle = cost of oem boots. It is made so cheap to overcome your resistance. If you change, keep the old core. aftermarket boot last about 2 years which force you to replace it again. It is not in the guarantee, your car will never feel smooth. Test it with cup of water before and after. record the water waves at different speeds for your comparison.

 

Advance GSP BRAND. it's made in China but comes with a lifetime warranty, IIRC

 

so does the napa axle, much rather have that.

 

Judging from what you just said, I much rather go the boot route. Are ebay boot kits any good?

 

many brands, and cost, it is hard to tell which one is good. I haven't tried any. OEM boot is 25+shipping, vs generic brand $10-20. If you have a shop do it, they problably charge 100-150/axle. But they always try to persuade you to go to new unit. You make the call. Boot function is to hold grease in, does not affect drivability or smoothness.

U/Tight turns will shorten life of any outer boot.

 

For you guys that actually do need a new axle but don't want to go the AutoZone/Advance Auto route you need to check out these guys

http://www.rmdriveline.com/

They rebuild only OEM axles and all work is done by hand in the USA at their shop in Colorado, they are real good guys and both of my axles are from them and they run smooth as can be and made a great change in the feel of the car when I got brand new, tight, axles in place.

Their prices are fair as well, so look 'em up. They will also rebuild your axles if you like with a quick turnaround.

 

When doing my waterpump the piston fell in. First off, the stuff still has oil on it and is still slippery, so no wonder it can be tricky to keep the piston held into the tensioner while pulling it out. It took me 30 minutes with a magnetic pickup to fish out, glad I didn't have to remove the cover.

If you can repair it, great, my driver side one I could not get the joint off the spline so I ended up getting another. I had a hard time getting one for my car, some stores keep giving me the wrong axle. I actually had to take it to the counter and see if the splines matched. Pep Boys were the ones that ended up having it. My axle was just a regular 5 speed open diff.

 

Installed AutoZone Axle @$87 a week ago (the axle was 3 inches short). Bought axle from Napa yesterday $67 remfurbished Max axle), and running perfect.

Tow car friday from AutoZone axle......never again!!!

 

running again from dead (broken axle) and running smooth is 2 different things. Each offers great feelings though.

 

Just bought an axle from Advanced Auto, this time they gave me a Tough One brand. Ugh.. Dealing with a leaking axle seal now.

 

Had to order another timing cover, put a six inch crack in it trying to get it off. Got the cover for $40 plus shipping. Used www.uneedapart.com. Junkyards across the country will email or call if they have the part you need. Timing is correct now and will bee on the road tomorrow. Be nice to drive after 4 weeks of car issues.