basevoid

iTrader: (1)

Compression test?

Chad_m

How do I do a compression test? (Nevermind, found this: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...sion-test.html And also this(Not specific to our vehicle however):http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques056_1.html)

Interesting development: So first off, the new MAF didn't help. Problem is still occurring, but I might have a new (useful?) symptom. I was sitting at a gas station with the car idling and I noticed the idle was a little unstable, but it was not really threatening to cut off. Then the idle smoothly went up to the 1500 mark and stayed there for about 3-5 seconds before going back down to ~650.

Now if you read my previous post you'll see that when I unplug the TPS and crank the car, it idles at 1500 and I can not adjust it to get it to go any lower. Coincidence? Maybe... I don't know. It sounds like my problem is occurring because something won't let the car idle below 1500 (IACV? Air leak?), but the TPS is combating this and forcing it to idle lower.

Maybe I have an air leak somewhere. Maybe it's in the black IACV screw. I don't know. It is starting to sound like the problem is pinpoint-able though. I would love some feedback on what you guys think.

Leo_Koneval

iTrader: (4)

This is starting to get interesting, I really hate trying to diagnose these type of issues; because there are so many ways you could go about things.

Hope you find a solution! I am lost at this point lol

Chad_m

I think my next course of action will be to check... all... of the vacuum hoses.
It looks like there's only 18 of them... However with this article:http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak, and this diagram I think I can effectively determine whether I have a vacuum leak.

And I'll do this as soon as it stops snowing...

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Any luck with this?

junbug27

Look at intake boot behind throttle body inspect closely could have crack
- get o2 simulator - no more cel
- then use lucas injector cleaner for 3 times 3 gas ups.

Chad_m

Okay, so here's what has happened thus far...

I went outside with a stethoscope and listened around the vacuum lines for a leak. When I got close to the fuel pressure regulator I heard quite a bit of sucking, for lack of a better term. The vacuum line that attached to the fuel had completely broken off and was just lying around.

After buying a new FPR it seemed like one of my "symptoms" went away. I may have been imagining it, but I'm pretty certain that the bogged down, speed up, bogged down "fake v-tech" symptom went away. So that is a good thing to check if you are having that symptom.

However... I only drove it for a day or so before some of my other symptoms got worse. I also had a little white smoke coming from the exhaust which I didn't think anything of because it was winter. But... as luck would have it, it started getting warm, and the smoke got worse. The day after changing the FPR I decided it was time for an oil change and fluid top off. When I changed the oil probably only around 2-2.5 quarts of oil came out... And I change my oil religiously. The coolant reservoir was also empty, so I also filled up that up. The very next day the reservoir was completely empty... Drinking oil, drinking coolant, white smoke... Oh ****... So I check my spark plugs and sure enough there was oil on all six of those bad boys. I didn't even bother to do a compression test... I started taking things off. I bought the head gasket set from Advanced Auto for about $200 (Comes with virtually every gasket in the engine.) and a new timing chain (Just because) for around $160. I also got them to order the head bolts, but I did not buy them because the pack of 8 cost $50. Since I had oil on all 6 spark plugs, I'm pretty sure I might need 16...

I'm almost certain that the head gasket has not blown, but I am also fairly certain it isn't far from it. I believe I caught it in the very early stage of it. The car has never once ran hot. I also had an additional symptom I somewhat ignored. My valves were making a lot of unnecessary noise. The car almost sounded like a playing card in a bicycle tire, plus engine noise of course.

I'm a good mechanic with more time than money and no engine hoist, so why not? The FSM has a very detailed walk-through of the entire process. If it's the head gasket, this will solve it. If it's the valve seals, this will solve it. (The kit also comes with those.) Either way this will absolutely prolong the life of my max. I'm about 3/4 of the way finished disassembling, but spring break ran out so I'll have to continue next weekend. I'll keep y'all up to date on the process.

Also, it looks like some gasket finally gave way. The back of the engine around the power steering oil pump has a lot of oil on it. I haven't found the source yet though.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

You can get a used engine for cheaper and you don't need an engine hoist to replace it. Why buy a chain and no tensioners or guides? Should've done more reading, learing, researching. Time better spent. Hope it works out for you.

Chad_m

You don't need an engine hoist to change our engine? How would I get the engine from the back of the truck to under the car? I haven't even opened the parts yet so I can still return them if you can convince me.

I doubt it would be cheaper though. I know the engines are cheap, but with a new engine comes new problems. I'm very used to this engine and it's problems. I could have gotten away with only spending $200, but I chose to do extra. Actually less, because many of my gaskets were already brand new. I will have to buy a new tensioner for the power steering oil pump belt because the FSM didn't explain that the screw had to be "tightened" in order to loosen the belt. So I kept wrenching on it and bent the screw.

Also, this way I gain much more mechanical knowledge. Which is priceless.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Why buy a chain and not replace the guides and chain tensioners? To get the engine off the truck use a couple extra friends. I've done it more than once. You can roll the engine around on a jack or dolleys. I've done both. Just saying some of your common sense makes no sense. But don't mind me carry on. Just fix it I want to see this thing fixed. Post a video and pictures.

Chad_m

Hahaha, well aren't you rude. Why replace a tensioner if it isn't broke? It's literally a bolt, a nut, and a bracket. Sounds like a waste of money. I can't speak for the guides yet though. I may end up buying those. I think I'll research the VQ35 swap a little. How much WHP does that engine put out?

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

I was speaking about the timming chain tensioners. Not the power steering or accesory belt tensioners. No vq35 needed, vq30 is better simply put. That kind of swap is for performance oriented people who want to zoom around. It takes more money. Don't waste your money changing the chain unless you have a worn out chain which in that case you'd want to change the timming chain guides and tensioners. Might sound rude but I want you to learn and not waste your money, trying to help.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Since you are very comfortable with the idea of replacing the head gasket(s), you really should look into a Vq35 swap. The motor actually weighs less than the VQ30 and has evolved to put out more and more power. Goto the all motor section of this forum and read up. It'll be worth it.

Here, I'll help you get started;

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...it-my-car.html

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...-0-timing.html

http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...tock-cams.html

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ap-thread.html

What you could also do is search for posts by aackshun and 95naSTA. There are others of course, but you get the idea.

papalion

ok here is the problem from the very begging....... i bought a used 2001 max se i burnt out the clutch doing crap lol. got a mechanic to change clutch and pressure plate... now car has hard to no start. it would crank and crank until sometimes if i am lucky it will start. sometimes. when im driving and come to a stop the rpm just drop and car dies...... so i notice when check for spark my #4 and #6 coil packs aren't firing so i assumed ecu... took it to a mechannic he told me that the cam and crank sensors arent in sync which means timing is off (right? could be wrong) so i towed it back home and did the timing my self.. tried to start it after timed nothing just cranks and i checked the coils and they are not fireing still so i switch the coils over to #2 connector and it fires like new but if i put number #2 coil pack to the #4 or #6 connector it doesnt fire at all until i put it back in its right connector HELP PLZZZZZ ASAP

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

When doing the clutch, the mechanic is supposed to brush down the mating surfaces between engine and tranny with like a metal toothbrush to keep a good ground connection. If they didn't, you can attach a thick cable between the tranny and engine to compensate.

darkside_supaman

I'd like to see some pictures of the head gasket process if you think about it. I had the same problems as you, mine was a fuel injector. The one I replaced looked to be in good condition, but when I replaced it with a remanufatured one, it ran like new.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

This forum has a lot of info burried in it.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

You have a severe valve cover leak and maybe your head gasket is going. Also maybe its just your water pump.

Since a head gasket issue pretty much means a new (used) engine, I would go for the other stuff and hope for the best.

Replace your valve covers and pintle caps and watch the your coolant. When the water pump goes it drips coolant slowly. Your water pump leak may be masked by the severe oil leak.

Good luck.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

TPS and MAF......

Chad_m

Do you think I should replace the covers? Do you think I can just get away with replacing the gaskets?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Just the gaskets and spark plug seals.

Chad_m

Okay... Update.
I've been working on the car for some time now. I put on a new water pump, new injectors, and new gaskets all the way down to the valve cover.

And now I have issues...

The car is misfiring like crazy. I'm getting a 0701 multiple cylinder misfire code, as well as an 0503 Front Right oxygen sensor code. I'm pretty sure the leaky valve cover ruined the oxygen sensor by dripping oil all over it, but that is irrelevant. Bad O2 sensor will not cause misfire.
My first thought was intake leak, so I stripped everything down and re-torqued everything (Yes, with a torque wrench) Didn't help. After that I let it idle for a while and I noticed smoke seemingly coming from under the lower intake manifold. This could have been something burning off though because I could not replicate it.

I only see a few possible solutions based on how my repair went:

#1 I may have made it jump timing when I started it without building oil pressure. I'm also pretty sure I didn't get that 20 degrees thing right when I changed the water pump.

#2 I put oil on the valve cover gasket, and I don't think I was supposed to. I don't know if that would cause multiple misfires though.

#3 Bad crankshaft position sensor.

What do you all think may have went wrong? I think right now my order of operation is to visually check the crankshaft sensors and clean that O2 sensor. If neither of those bear fruit, I guess I need to move on to timing.

Is it possible that the ECU simply hasn't adjusted the timing back yet and it will correct itself with time? I probably haven't even driven it a mile, but I have let it idle for probably an accumulative total of 45 minutes. It idles very poorly. Shakes horribly and the muffler is "panting" like a dog.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Are you reading the codes correctly? Multiple cylinder misfire should be 0300 and oxygen sensor code should be anything from 0130 to 0141.

Chad_m

Yes, I am absolutely reading the codes correctly. The numbers you are citing are the consult codes. They are the same codes. You've been here far too long not to know this.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

My bad. Brain fart. As for your troubles, check the timing off of cylinder 1. I suppose with a water pump change, a loose tensioner could cause a chain jump.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Yep, if you do a water pumper changer wronger it'll crap out just like what dwapenyi said.

Chad_m

Is there an easy way to check the timing?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Ignition light connected to cylinder 1, number 1 being firewall side of engine furthest away from driver. When operating normally, you should see the timing move around plus/minus 20 degrees while idling.

Chad_m

First thing first, on page EC-78 of the FSM it says the timing is supposed to be 15 degrees plus/minus 2. Not 20.

Second, it also says I can check it with a consult and a timing light

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Yes, but just a FYI, only a dealer or a repair shop is going to have the Consult. Buying one is out of the question, and places like Autozone, Pepboys aren't going to have it.

A piece of advice if I may. When you do repairs, do one repair at a time to see if it fixes your issue(s). Now that you've done multiple repairs all at once, and you're having new issues, you have quit a few variables here as possibilities, which makes troubleshooting more difficult.

I would have done the water pump as one job, and the injectors and gaskets as another.

Chad_m

I may have cracked the code. I finally bought a timing light, and if I had to guess I would say the timing is off by about 7-10 degrees. The FSM says the timing is not adjustable so to check the two crankshaft sensors and the camshaft sensor. Well I checked every one of them per the FSM with a multimeter and the very last crankshaft sensor was out of spec. I am going to replace it tomorrow morning and get back to yall. I just find it odd, because I never touched that sensor.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I wish you luck, and I really really hope your sensors are bad.

Chad_m

SOLUTION I found it! Yay!

The injectors I got from eBay were bad. The problem was the injectors all along. When I first saw them, all of the pintle caps were broken causing me to replace them. I bought 6 remanufactured ones from eBay (bad idea) and that my friends is why my timing was off.

The timing on our cars sets itself and don't let anyone tell you different. If all 3 of the timing sensors test in spec, them the problem is fuel, air, or spark related. Period. The guy at Nissan told me that. After moving my injectors around the code followed. I changed the problem injector and now everything is running amazingly. All of my mechanical issues are gone. And I'd like to remind everyone that all of my injectors tested in spec and I did not have a check engine light.

CHECK YOUR INJECTORS PEOPLE.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Which ebay seller did you buy them from? This info will help warn others

Chad_m

"injectordyne"
He sells 6 for $100
After I messaged him about it he did send me two more to switch around with the others though. So though he didn't do a great job initially, he did try to help.

NSMO240

iTrader: (5)

so what i got out of this is, i started to get bad injectors, replaced all sorts of stuff, then replaced the bad injectors with other bad injectors, then moved the bad injectors, then replaced them with good injectors, is this correct?

I would agree with the wizard though, fix 1 thing at a time. it does get tricky trying to pinpoint something when your throwing tons of different parts at it from different areas.

I wouldnt say the timing sets itself completely, if you have your cam timing off, then the ECU will have a hard time adjusting the timing if it sees its more advanced or retarded than it should be, which would cause it to run bad.

glad you got it fixed.

CS_AR

Glad you found the issue. I bought a kit from eBay for $34 that contained six injector screens, o-rings, and pintle caps. I refurbished all of my old injectors to resolve a problem with two broken pintle caps. It sure runs good now. I think I will refurbish my 99 I30's injectors next fall as preventative maintenance since it will have over 270,000 miles at that time.

Chad_m

There are three sensors that tell the ECU where the camshaft and crankshaft is. Then the ECU adjusts the firing time according to that. If your timing is off, and the sensors test in spec, you have other issues. That is how the timing is set. The manual says there is no other way for the timing to be off. There are literally no other resolutions for bad timing other than check those three sensors and resolve other issues. The timing does set itself. (Notice that no one has ever done a write up on how to set timing. And the one guy that started, never finished.)

And yes, basically that is the story. But now my alternator is having issues... (battery light and brake light)

I guess that's just an excuse to buy a high output alternator

NSMO240

iTrader: (5)

Right, i get what your saying, but what I was saying is, if the timing chain is not set up correctly, then your car will never be in true time because the ECU sees that the camshafts are not in proper correlation with the crank.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

And just how would you adjust it? There is no adjustment. The crank and cam sensors read the reluctor rings and tell the ECU where the engine is in its rotation. Then the ECU uses readings from the MAP(boost), MAF, ECTS,and Knock sensors, as well as engine RPM to adjust timing from there.

We do not have a distributor to advance or retard.