granturissimus

For about 6 months now, our car's ignition (where you stick the key in), has had the problem of the clock turning off and the radio not working when the engine is on and we're driving. There is some sort of bad electrical connection it seems, that gets disconnected, and the driver has to wiggle the key a bit for the clock and the radio to work again.

Today, it got worse. We were stranded, and although the lights and everything worked, the car's starter would not even turn on. After about 20 attempts at turning the key, the car's starter turned on and got the engine running. Once we got home and turned off the engine, it's having the same problem again.

Do you think it is an issue with a bad electrical connection in the key ignition area? How can it be fixed?

***EDIT***

I got a new ignition switch, and the same problem persists... the starter does not turn on, but sometimes it does, very rarely though. So if it's not the ignition switch, what should I check next?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Did the radio and clock problem go away with the new switch?

The no start problem could still be related to the ignition switch, more specifically the wear in the key cylinder. Take the ignition switch off and turn it with a screwdriver and see if the starter works that way. If it works, you may be able to shim the key cylinder tab that goes in the ignition switch.

granturissimus

The radio/clock problem would happen only once the car is running. We can't test it with the new switch, cause it does not get the car started.

The car does start sometimes... but like once every 30 attempts at turning the key, or rarer. The last time it started, my dad said he heard an effort in the engine to start... it didn't start easy. Funny thing about this whole thing, the engine started very well when we went to the store, then when it came time to go home, it wouldn't start (starter not turning), and that's how the problem began.

I did try to turn the switch with the screwdriver just as boredmder (God bless him for all the helpful videos) showed, but the same thing happens both with the old and new switch. When it comes to turning the screw/key all the way to start the car, nothing happens... just some electrical buzz that lasts a second. When turning the screw/key to the first position, the clock and radio work, then turning the key further, the instrument panel lights go on, but then turning it further to start the car does nothing.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There a 3 areas to look at when the starter doesn't crank over the engine. Ignition switch, inhibitor relay and the starter.

At this point, it sounds like the ignition switch is ruled out. What needs to be done now is to look at everything after the ignition switch.

Based on percentages, it is more likely the starter than the inhibitor relay. But we don't run out and buy parts based on percentages. This will require something called diagnostics before you buy or fix anything. BUT...

The electrical circuit for the starter is different for manual trans cars and automatic trans cars, so I'm going to skip talking about the inhibitor relay until I know which transmission type the car has.

That leaves the starter. You will need either a voltmeter or a test light for this. Remove the air cleaner box so you can get to the starter. On the starter solenoid are 3 electrical connections, A thick wire from the battery held on with a nut, another nut (usually copper colored) that connects the solenoid to the starter motor and a thin wire that goes to the ignition switch.

The thin wire is what we want to test for 12 volts. This wire is soldered on to the solenoid and this solder connection makes an easy to access test point. So, with one side of the voltmeter or test light connected to ground, put the other lead on the solder connection. Turn the key to the START position. This test point should have 12 volts if the ignition switch and inhibitor relay circuit is working.

If you have 12 volts, the starter should be cranking away. If it doesn't, we need to look into the inhibitor circuit.

granturissimus

Sorry about that, I should have put the transmission in my sig... it is an automatic.

We are gonna go and do the starter test you mentioned.

DBear

Don't forget the basics. Check all your grounds, and make sure the battery cables are clean and tight.

granturissimus

Actually before we take apart the things blocking access to the starter, where is the inhibitor relay, and how do we check if its working or not?

Is it the relay that is in the box in front of the battery and right behind the headlight? It says "Inhibit" or something right on it... grey in color.

theWalkinator

Yes, that is the one, take it out, jump pins 4&7 I believe, try to start again. If still not starting, try to shift from park to neutral, back and forth couple of times to see if that does the trick.

First thing I would check the battery, get it fully charged, then clean the battery terminals, clean the ground connector that is attached to the engine body.

From what you described, I suspect it is the starter solenoid at fault.

granturissimus

Me and dad had to take out the starter. He is better with electricity. He used a screw driver and also a metal wire to connect those points on the starter, and sparks flew but starter didn't turn. At one point it turned, but then didn't anymore. Once we took it out, he tried connecting it to some power again and it didn't turn. At one point I saw the thing inside it move forward, but didn't turn.

theWalkinator

Bad connection between starter solenoid and starter, clean the connector with sandpaper and put back and try again.

granturissimus

It seems to be the solenoid. Dad hooked up power and voltimeter to test it. It only works weakly once or twice when it is cold, and doesn't work after. The starter motor works, but the brushes are really worn, so we ordered a new starter/solenoid... some cheap but new one on Amazon for $57... got 1 year warranty and good reviews lol, let's hope this is where the problem ends.