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Stalling when idling issues

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Old 01-09-2014 | 07:52 AM
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Stalling when idling issues

Good Morning All,

I am needing some help. I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima GLE that has about 240,000 miles on it. Lately I have been experiencing some stalling when idiling as if the car wants to cut off. This morning when I crunk up the car to let it warm I smelled gas fumes. As I was driving into work my acceleration was smooth, but then it started to kind of slug.

I have replaced my starter, battery, and battery post. Put in new fuel filter and I even did the spark plug check. The thing that is so weird to me is that my CHECK ENGINE SOON light is not even on.

Any suggestions as to what might be causing this and what I need to do?

The car runs quiet and smooth and I have not had any problems with LilleMae until now.

Help Please!!!!
Old 01-09-2014 | 08:00 AM
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Herald's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by Arnesha
Good Morning All,

I am needing some help. I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima GLE that has about 240,000 miles on it. Lately I have been experiencing some stalling when idiling as if the car wants to cut off. This morning when I crunk up the car to let it warm I smelled gas fumes. As I was driving into work my acceleration was smooth, but then it started to kind of slug.

I have replaced my starter, battery, and battery post. Put in new fuel filter and I even did the spark plug check. The thing that is so weird to me is that my CHECK ENGINE SOON light is not even on.

Any suggestions as to what might be causing this and what I need to do?

The car runs quiet and smooth and I have not had any problems with LilleMae until now.

Help Please!!!!
I experienced something similar lately and it turned out my radiator was empty. What does the temperature gauge show? Is the radiator full? (Don't take off the radiator cap unless your car is cool or else you'll risk getting burned.)
Old 01-09-2014 | 08:08 AM
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I would look into the MAF sensor. It can cause sluggish acceleration and stalling at idle. Try to clean it first, it could just be dirty. Buying a new one is usually very expensive
Old 01-09-2014 | 12:10 PM
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Dylan Drift-King Murphy's Avatar
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try unplugging the MAF while the car is running, if it doesnt do anything, than it needs replaced but if it does, its good.
Old 01-09-2014 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Dylan Drift-King Murphy
try unplugging the MAF while the car is running, if it doesnt do anything, than it needs replaced but if it does, its good.
You do that with ignition coils not maf sensor.
Old 01-09-2014 | 06:12 PM
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Does the CEL come on for a second before cranking the engine over? The light could be burnt out. In cold weather the fuel will often leak through very fine cracks in the fuel lines at the fuel filter or between the fuel rails.

If its sluggish it might be time for plugs, air filter and TB, MAF and EGR cleaning.
Old 01-11-2014 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Herald
I experienced something similar lately and it turned out my radiator was empty. What does the temperature gauge show? Is the radiator full? (Don't take off the radiator cap unless your car is cool or else you'll risk getting burned.)
I had my radiator go empty on me one day in my 95 and it didn't cause any issues like these. Then again I was driving on the highway with the heater full blast to keep the temp gauge close to normal as I could.
Old 01-14-2014 | 01:35 PM
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From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by jfactor

I had my radiator go empty on me one day in my 95 and it didn't cause any issues like these. Then again I was driving on the highway with the heater full blast to keep the temp gauge close to normal as I could.
Well, it was driving like that for awhile. Days, maybe weeks? I never thought to check the radiator until noticing the temperature gauge. And perhaps something else was contributing to the loss of power. Since posting this, I've replaced my radiator and discovered my engine to be out of oil. Perhaps there's a connection between the two.
Old 01-15-2014 | 04:36 PM
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I had a simular problem a while back. Check the maf sensor first as it controls the fuel air mixture. But mine didnt have the fumes. Mine stalled at idle and the idle air control valve caused it. It has two solenoids, one is for the a/c and the other is for power steering. When you turn he steering wheel to one extreme or the other the engine should idle up a little higher. It should also idle up a little higher when you turn the a/c on. Thats the quick check.
Old 01-15-2014 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PowerTotheMax
You do that with ignition coils not maf sensor.
You do it with the maf also. When you unplug it, the pcm reverts to a preset air flow setting. If its good the car should idle worse with it unpluged.
Old 01-15-2014 | 05:27 PM
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I have been experiencing some stalling when idiling
First clean the auto idle valve. Get some carb cleaner, get rid of the deposits you'll find in there.
Old 01-24-2014 | 02:43 PM
  #12  
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From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by Herald

Well, it was driving like that for awhile. Days, maybe weeks? I never thought to check the radiator until noticing the temperature gauge. And perhaps something else was contributing to the loss of power. Since posting this, I've replaced my radiator and discovered my engine to be out of oil. Perhaps there's a connection between the two.
Today a mechanic had my Maxima up and took me on a tour of its underside. Showed me the dripping oil pan. Looks like I'll be putting in a new gasket/gasket sealant soon.
Old 01-26-2014 | 06:18 PM
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mine was stalling like your saying and it was the MAF...I bought a new one on ebay for 33 bucks. I was wondering about quality but it works perfect. no more stalling and has quite a bit more power. I also sprayed the throttle body with cleaner and added a new air filter. Its a 95 SE auto and will spin the tires on takeoff now.
Old 01-30-2014 | 12:56 AM
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stahlling and fumes

Originally Posted by 95_Maxima_Owner
I would look into the MAF sensor. It can cause sluggish acceleration and stalling at idle. Try to clean it first, it could just be dirty. Buying a new one is usually very expensive
I agree...my 96 had ur same problem, what I did was unplugged and took out the MAF sensor, there was condensation rust (i call it) so I took a tooth brush and I cleaned off the metal sensors and put it back in, plugged it in and damned if it didnt run like a new car. Hence why i got it from a chick for $400 cuz 6 mechanics couldn't figure it out and replaced all kinds of stuff for me too. Ya she wasnt too happy I got it the same week. Too Bad.
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