Starter Advice (Two starters in one year)
#1
Starter Advice (Two starters in one year)
Granted my 98 Maxima is getting old but with 208,000 miles she's still ok...but not sure what is happening in the starting department.
I had a starter get too weak to get the car started about 6ish years ago; replaced it, problem solved. Three years later, same problem. Replaced; we're good.
Two years later (and one year ago), I started having intermittent failures where the starter became too weak...AND the stater would not engage(sometimes). Replaced (Advanced auto almost didn't give me my free one under warranty as the starter tested OK during their test...of turning it on).
The above years were spent mainly in Alabama. I moved up to Ohio (A LOT colder so I switch to 5W-30 oil) a few months ago. Today, after driving my car all morning, I go to the car, turn the key, and CLICK.
Multimeter confirms continuity to all contacts, 12V+ on the starter leads, and 7-8V on the control line when turning the key and pressing the clutch....but NO engaging of the starter...just CLICKING.
I am using the remanufactured starters...are their failures really this bad? or is their some other problem forming? something causing the maxima to be harder to turn over? If no ideas, I'll just assume it was the new cold weather/snow/slush that got to it....and think about buying a higher quality one next time (I didn't enjoy my 8 mile hike this morning to the part store).
Am pondering just keeping a spare starter in my trunk which has become a full took box over the years.
I had a starter get too weak to get the car started about 6ish years ago; replaced it, problem solved. Three years later, same problem. Replaced; we're good.
Two years later (and one year ago), I started having intermittent failures where the starter became too weak...AND the stater would not engage(sometimes). Replaced (Advanced auto almost didn't give me my free one under warranty as the starter tested OK during their test...of turning it on).
The above years were spent mainly in Alabama. I moved up to Ohio (A LOT colder so I switch to 5W-30 oil) a few months ago. Today, after driving my car all morning, I go to the car, turn the key, and CLICK.
Multimeter confirms continuity to all contacts, 12V+ on the starter leads, and 7-8V on the control line when turning the key and pressing the clutch....but NO engaging of the starter...just CLICKING.
I am using the remanufactured starters...are their failures really this bad? or is their some other problem forming? something causing the maxima to be harder to turn over? If no ideas, I'll just assume it was the new cold weather/snow/slush that got to it....and think about buying a higher quality one next time (I didn't enjoy my 8 mile hike this morning to the part store).
Am pondering just keeping a spare starter in my trunk which has become a full took box over the years.
#3
Maxima starters dont seem to take well to remanufacturing, ive seen many remans go bad within 6 months at work. that and rebuilt Maxima alternators
might be worth getting a high quality new starter and trying that
might be worth getting a high quality new starter and trying that
#4
Many people have problems with re-manufactured starters lasting along time. Many don't even get 6 months. 2 - 3 years on a re-man ain't bad.
The current problem where you say 7-8 volts on the control line, what is the control line? Is that the starter solenoid wire, the thin wire on the starter? If it is the solenoid wire, 12 volts is what you want, 11 may be OK, but less - you got a problem.
In front of the battery is a box with relays in it. the starter relay is labeled INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTER LOCK. Swap it with another relay that is the same color. There are more relays over by the power steering oil reservoir.
Or you could pull the relay out and put a jumper wire in the socket between pins 3 and 5. Pin numbers are on the bottom of the relay. If you do this jumper, BE CAREFUL. The starter will spin without the clutch pedal being depressed.
The current problem where you say 7-8 volts on the control line, what is the control line? Is that the starter solenoid wire, the thin wire on the starter? If it is the solenoid wire, 12 volts is what you want, 11 may be OK, but less - you got a problem.
In front of the battery is a box with relays in it. the starter relay is labeled INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTER LOCK. Swap it with another relay that is the same color. There are more relays over by the power steering oil reservoir.
Or you could pull the relay out and put a jumper wire in the socket between pins 3 and 5. Pin numbers are on the bottom of the relay. If you do this jumper, BE CAREFUL. The starter will spin without the clutch pedal being depressed.
#7
I hope it lasts u for a long time as well. Good luck and just keep a spare and tools with you because you never know with the used ones. I bought the hitachi branded one becuase it has 11 teeth and it is what your car came with from the factory plus it will give u no problems and last a longtime and dont want to go through the hassle of opening your car and tearing it apart. http://www.ebay.com/itm/320920150482...84.m1497.l2649
#10
I've had awesome results from reman'd OEM starters and Altenators! From Courtesy or ABC Nissan! The difference is the cadium plated hdw and components...where as your local starter/Alt repair shop sand blast all their components and once thier components get into the realworld or field they start breaking down or corroding!
#11
I hope it lasts u for a long time as well. Good luck and just keep a spare and tools with you because you never know with the used ones. I bought the hitachi branded one becuase it has 11 teeth and it is what your car came with from the factory plus it will give u no problems and last a longtime and dont want to go through the hassle of opening your car and tearing it apart. http://www.ebay.com/itm/320920150482...84.m1497.l2649
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