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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 12:18 PM
  #1  
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Need Urgent Help Please...

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I bought the knock sensor for 130 in advance auto... now i need to know which o2 sensor to buy... I have the california emission 1999 nissan maxima
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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Here is the Knock Sensor I bought

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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Sadly the knock sensor was probably fine. O2 sensor codes trigger false ks codes. Ebay ks work great at $5-$10 too.
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 03:16 PM
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Waaay to much for a ks. They should take it back since it has not yet been installed, get your money and get one 90% cheaper..lol. O2 sensors are on ebay for around $28 each just get both.
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 03:23 PM
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They're right about the KS, but that doesn't answer your question.

Your code reader says its bank 1 sensor 2, but I'd double check that if I were you. Search for P0141 on this forum. Here's where I usually get O2 sensors http://www.oxygensensors.com/catalog...tion=Calif-ESV. I don't remember off hand which bank is pre and which is post cat, but you should be able to figure that out from your search. Someone else may be able to jump in with the answer.

If you're asking a basic question like this, you probably want to get one with the correct plug, rather than splice the wires in. And once you know which sensor it is, you might be able to get it cheaper from Amazon.
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 04:44 PM
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P0141 bank 1 sensor 2 is the downstream sensor, after or in the main cat if I'm not mistaken. I am currently dealing with po141 and p0325, KC. I tested my KC and its dead. Also the downstream o2 only measures catylast efficiency, not A/F so I dot see how p0141 can trigger the KC code. I can see the upstream o2's causing a KC code because they control A/F ratios. I'm not saying that p0141 can't trigger a KC code, I'm just having a hard time wrapping my head around it.
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 6cyl-97maxima
P0141 bank 1 sensor 2 is the downstream sensor, after or in the main cat if I'm not mistaken. I am currently dealing with po141 and p0325, KC. I tested my KC and its dead. Also the downstream o2 only measures catylast efficiency, not A/F so I dot see how p0141 can trigger the KC code. I can see the upstream o2's causing a KC code because they control A/F ratios. I'm not saying that p0141 can't trigger a KC code, I'm just having a hard time wrapping my head around it.
Not on California spec...Which op has.

On his car, bank one sensor 2 is after the rear precat. Rear being firewall side
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
Not on California spec...Which op has.

On his car, bank one sensor 2 is after the rear precat. Rear being firewall side
thank so much
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DBear
They're right about the KS, but that doesn't answer your question.

Your code reader says its bank 1 sensor 2, but I'd double check that if I were you. Search for P0141 on this forum. Here's where I usually get O2 sensors http://www.oxygensensors.com/catalog...tion=Calif-ESV. I don't remember off hand which bank is pre and which is post cat, but you should be able to figure that out from your search. Someone else may be able to jump in with the answer.

If you're asking a basic question like this, you probably want to get one with the correct plug, rather than splice the wires in. And once you know which sensor it is, you might be able to get it cheaper from Amazon.
Should i return my knock sensor i paid for and buy this one? will it be ok to drive NY from NJ and back this weekend with this messed up knock sensor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Nissan-Brand-Knock-Sensor-oem-/121147996456?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3AMaxima%7CYear%3A1999&hash=item1c34fbb928&vxp=mtr

Last edited by miguel1885; Feb 19, 2014 at 06:07 PM.
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 06:05 PM
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DO i need to buy the harness to go along with it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HQRP-Knock-S...189dfc&vxp=mtr
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 06:19 PM
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Nope no need for the harness.
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by IslandMax
Nope no need for the harness.
ok great... the mechanic said i needed that for the Knock Sensor... to avoid future problems... But Can i drive to NY and back to NJ without fixing it until monday??? i bought the car with this problem... so im going to buy this knock sensor OEM for 38 dollars.. its better than the 140 with taxes i paid in advance auto parts...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Nissan-Brand-Knock-Sensor-oem-/121147996456?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3AMaxima%7CYear%3A1999&hash=item1c34fbb928&vxp=mtr
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 07:42 PM
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Your knock sensor probably works fine. Replace the oxy sensor and then the ks sensor will probably go away.
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
Your knock sensor probably works fine. Replace the oxy sensor and then the ks sensor will probably go away.
ok will try to do that first... if anything i still have the receipt to return the knock sensor
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 05:05 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
Not on California spec...Which op has.

On his car, bank one sensor 2 is after the rear precat. Rear being firewall side
Oh yeah its a Cali spec car. Which has more o2's. Sorry. So does that sensor work the A/F ratios or does or simply measure pre-cat efficiency.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 06:17 AM
  #16  
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You can drive your car with a bad knock sensor forever. No engine damage will occur. Instead, your engine computer will dial back the car's power by about 10% because the ECU defaults to an fuel program assuming 87 octane even if you put in 93 octane.

I am going to go against the grain here, and your computer.....replace just 1 O2 sensor, the primary one in the exhaust manifold. You can see it directly when you open the hood....its like right there.

I did that on my buddy's 99 I30 (same 99 cali emissions VQ engine as yours) and his car has been happy ever since. A lot more pep returned to his car and his O2 code (which was NOT the primary) went away.

Reason being is that O2 sensors get tired. Alll your O2s may be tired, but the critical ones are the primary. The computer uses those to adjust air/fuel mixture, and therefore power.
All the other O2 sensors just check that the cats (pre and main) are working properly.
Old Feb 22, 2014 | 12:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dwapenyi
You can drive your car with a bad knock sensor forever. No engine damage will occur. Instead, your engine computer will dial back the car's power by about 10% because the ECU defaults to an fuel program assuming 87 octane even if you put in 93 octane.

I am going to go against the grain here, and your computer.....replace just 1 O2 sensor, the primary one in the exhaust manifold. You can see it directly when you open the hood....its like right there.

I did that on my buddy's 99 I30 (same 99 cali emissions VQ engine as yours) and his car has been happy ever since. A lot more pep returned to his car and his O2 code (which was NOT the primary) went away.

Reason being is that O2 sensors get tired. Alll your O2s may be tired, but the critical ones are the primary. The computer uses those to adjust air/fuel mixture, and therefore power.
All the other O2 sensors just check that the cats (pre and main) are working properly.
Its on my list too. I'm just going to replace the primary, hopefully I can find a cheap e-bay one that actually works.
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