98 Maxima shut off, what you think?
#1
98 Maxima shut off, won't start, what do you think? New question-Shop Fees
We have a 98 Maxima SE with 150k mi. on it, and it recently died on the road.
My Wife has been using this car to go to work 10 mins.away. Bought it new and maintained it, only knew needs a valve cover job and adding oil as needed. She turned key and it was tight turning key but started car fine, then drove it a few hundred feet and stopped to talk to a friend, put it in park, and then heard a loud metal grating noise from engine and smelled a "burnt cigarette smell."
She then put it in drive, the noise stopped, and she was able to drive the car into a parking spot and put in park again idling, no noise now. Then after 5 mins. idling the car died and couldn't start. She turned the key and silence, no clicking, nothing. She had lights and interior lights, buzzers, but no dashboard lights came on when she turned key. Checked battery cables and tight, no corrosion, and battery is low, not dead. What do you think could be the issue? Really want to keep it, otherwise body and interior is great 98 max.SE
My Wife has been using this car to go to work 10 mins.away. Bought it new and maintained it, only knew needs a valve cover job and adding oil as needed. She turned key and it was tight turning key but started car fine, then drove it a few hundred feet and stopped to talk to a friend, put it in park, and then heard a loud metal grating noise from engine and smelled a "burnt cigarette smell."
She then put it in drive, the noise stopped, and she was able to drive the car into a parking spot and put in park again idling, no noise now. Then after 5 mins. idling the car died and couldn't start. She turned the key and silence, no clicking, nothing. She had lights and interior lights, buzzers, but no dashboard lights came on when she turned key. Checked battery cables and tight, no corrosion, and battery is low, not dead. What do you think could be the issue? Really want to keep it, otherwise body and interior is great 98 max.SE
Last edited by gag; 03-23-2014 at 09:14 PM.
#2
We have timing chains, not belts..I'm guessing something seized and fried a belt.
Visual inspection should tell you a lot.
On a side note..if you have the time, do the valve cover gasket yourself.
Front is cake, rear is just time consuming..not hard.
Visual inspection should tell you a lot.
On a side note..if you have the time, do the valve cover gasket yourself.
Front is cake, rear is just time consuming..not hard.
#4
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What's strange is the fact that the ignition is no longer turning anything on.
A couple of possibilities:
1) Alternator burnt up, shorted and blew a main fuse.
2) Ignition switch failed.
What makes me thing it's ignition switch related is that she said turning the key was tight. The noise she may have heard could have been the starter. The switch may not have come back to the run position and left the starter engaged with the flywheel. You could have some damage there, but let's get power back first.
Check for a blown main fusible link, their under the hood. If that's ok, check the ignition switch, it's actually a common failure item.
Keep us posted on what you find.
A couple of possibilities:
1) Alternator burnt up, shorted and blew a main fuse.
2) Ignition switch failed.
What makes me thing it's ignition switch related is that she said turning the key was tight. The noise she may have heard could have been the starter. The switch may not have come back to the run position and left the starter engaged with the flywheel. You could have some damage there, but let's get power back first.
Check for a blown main fusible link, their under the hood. If that's ok, check the ignition switch, it's actually a common failure item.
Keep us posted on what you find.
#5
Thanks for this, I wasn't contacted, and I called my dealer service and they confirmed I need it. Thanks for your input.
#6
Yes, agree and thanks. I told the guy the key crank was tight before the noise, and told him your scenario. He doesn't seem to listen too good though, and I said, for $97/hr diagnostic work start with this please. He said maybe she heard a backfire. I said no, it was metal/metal sound, jeeezzzz. BTW, he did mention he checked ALT/Start/Battery and all fine so far.
Yea thanks, he said nothing showing on visual, but who knows. Ok, maybe I'll look into doing the covers, since that'll be a good savings. Thanks for the idea encouragement.
Last edited by gag; 03-21-2014 at 03:49 PM.
#7
#8
#9
![got me](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ne_nau.gif)
#10
yes, and fortunate you posted here for me. Mechanic just said not the Alt., but if we can get it fired up, I'll have it changed at the dealer.
They should check recalls with Nissan even if you're in for a brake job anywhere else as a courtesy. People move around these days more, and that'll help us with this major fire potential defects.
#12
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#14
Finally I decided to tell them that I spoke to Nissan Corporate. Even before I could finish my sentence they said they knew about and took care of it, no charge, of course.
It's like the words Nissan and Corporate are kryptonite to a Nissan dealer lol
#15
OK, thanks, and here's what was wrong with it.
Just picked up the car from the shop and the total cost was $550. It needed an ignition switch, some fuses, relays, and a new starter; the flywheel was fine. Dealer said there is a recall for a new alternator if its still the original, so next is that. So, not as bad as I thought, and back on the road, but will keep it local for now.
Just picked up the car from the shop and the total cost was $550. It needed an ignition switch, some fuses, relays, and a new starter; the flywheel was fine. Dealer said there is a recall for a new alternator if its still the original, so next is that. So, not as bad as I thought, and back on the road, but will keep it local for now.
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erniel
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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08-08-2015 09:32 AM