I have a 1996 Maxima when accelerating it would miss and when stopped in drive I feel like a bump like the engine about to shut off every few seconds.

I have a check engine light.
P0443 = EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid
P1400 = EGRC Solenoid Valve

Would any of those codes cause the miss?

 

Those codes usually will not cause the engine to miss or bump or what ever.

When were the spark plugs last changed?
What rpm does the engine idle at?

 

lol in fact a plugged egr will cause a bad studder when on decel.
Clean the tube and sensor going to manifold.
Sounds more like a bad iacv or bad coil.

 

A clogged EGR will cause nothing more then a check engine light and a slight decrease in MPG.

The bump your feeling is indeed a misfire. Usually caused by a coil pack, but could be a FI failing. Start by pulling the electrical connector off one coil at a time and see if you can locate the cylinder that's acting up.

 

What is the best way to test the coil packs?

I had the iacv replaced about a year ago but I am now hearing a ticking sound coming from it.

 

Could a bad a fuel injector cause the problem; even though I not getting a check engine code.

 

Fuel injectors will not cause a check engine light. While you could have a bad fuel injector, it is more likely a coil pack problem.

But you need to figure out which cylinder is having the problem. njmaxseltd suggested you unplug the coil pack one by one. Have you tried that yet?

 

I did unplug each coil pack and it checked out ok. Not sure what to check next?

 

How many miles do you have on your Max?

 

150000 miles.

 

P0443 = EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid
P1400 = EGRC Solenoid Valve. These codes will causes a misfire because the valve is part of the egr system and it control the vacuum system as we'll and if it is not functioning right it will cut off the air that goes to the egr and the rest of the system which will causes the car not burn the fuel correctly because the air fuel ratio is disturbed. Get that egr solenoid fixed. It has two vacuum pipes going to it. Here's a pic of it, also visit this link it lists all the symptoms of a bad egr solenoid and lists all the symptoms that you are having. http://www.ehow.com/facts_7225011_eg...n_.html#page=2

 

Those symptoms are similar to mine. I had to replace two coil packs within six months.

 

Replaced EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid and EGRC Solenoid Valve and nothing changed. Could it be the fuel pump?

 

Here's how I fixed my cylinder misfire. I changed the crankshaft position sensor that hooked up to the transmission and the spark plug for cylinder 3 that only had 4,000 miles on it which was double plat ngk. One year ago I had a cylinder 5 misfire code and it wouldn't go away and I changed the crankshaft sensor on the tranny and it was gone. The misfire only occurred when changing gears and at highway speeds but not at idle and I even changed the maf and that didn't help and the coils were all oem Nissan brand new from about 5,000 miles ago. So the conclusion here is that its not always a bad coil, maf or etc. it could be tiny little things like the crankshaft sensor or a spark plug that could be new but still bad some how. Since the crankshaft sensor is responsible for engine timing, the driver may experience engine backfire or irregular rpm function, if the vehicle starts at all.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/about_5860665_ba...#ixzz2zTIZR81N

 

Broken injector pintle caps were causing random misfires on cylinders 5 and 2 in my 99 Max SE 5MT. I went back and looked at the old plugs and two were discolored compared to the others but I didn't think about injectors at the time.

How many miles do you have on your 4th gen?

 

The mileage is 150000. Did you get a check engine light with the injector problem?

 

No Check Engine Light (CEL) codes specific to the injector issues. The injectors all Ohm tested within spec. The only CEL codes appeared on Cyl 5 and Cyl 2 were the misfire codes. I could clear the codes and it would run for a while then Cyl 5 would re-appear at idle more frequently than Cyl 2.

I tried moving the coils, new plugs, I replaced both CKPS with my perfectly good running I30 and still had a misfire issue.

I had the car at the dealer for almost 2 weeks and paid them $750 to tell me I needed a new engine for $8,400 to correct the misfire issues. I had to pay to have the car towed home where I took it apart and found the broken pintile caps and clogged/burned up cats.

I'll find a thread by "The Wizard" who found similar broken pintile caps. The Wizard sent his injectors to Deatsch Werks in OKC for new pintle caps, screens, o-rings and injector service and testing.

Depending on the age and mileage of our cars, we are starting to think an injector refresh kit might be a good mid-life maintenance item to install new injector pintile caps, screens, and o-rings.

If you have corrected the issue, then I would drive it a while to see how it goes. If the problem returns, there is not much remaining but something like the injector issue.

Check out this thread.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ite-smoke.html

 

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03-25-2014, 09:22 PM #1
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How I fixed my hard start issues: Finally
Ok this how I fixed my hard start issues with my Nissan maxima 1997 se automatic. I had to make sure my fuel injectors were good and they were but not the pintle caps that hold the O-rings together. The pintle caps were cracked and as soon as I Fixed those the car would start right away on every start. Then later on car would still start on the fisrt start but as soon as I would start after an 1-2 hours the car would start but would almost stall but it wouldn't and I figured it had to be a fuel pressure problem and it was. The fuel pressure regulator was good as I had a new oem one on. That left me to the fuel pump. I had put a an oem fuel pump that had 129,000 miles that I thought would run good but now I know no matter how many miles the pump has it can still be bad and it was luckily I had a oem Nissan fuel pump from 1995 Nissan maxima with only 176,000 miles and now no more problems. its been two weeks and now im finally happy that I don't have to work on my car anymore or worry about the starting because after 1 whole year it's finally gone. Its gone and now I am getting more gas millage as I filled my tank with premium 91 and I still a half of a tank with 180 miles. Im hoping to get at least 300 miles with a full tank of gas now that the car has no problems with 303,396 miles on it. Now if I can get 300 miles from my maxima now where I used to 260 miles with a full tank that would kick *** and I would be happy.

 

For you all you need to do is take out all three of the front injectors and check to see the condition of the pintle caps of the injector. Those are the easiest to reach and a quick fix if it's only the front injectors. It will give you a good clue of where to start from. But I kind of have a doubt that it's your fuel injectors because i took some out of a Infiniti i30 1997 with 150,000 miles and the pintle caps were in good condition. But it's always good to check. If u do decide to take them out makes sure you properly seal and put them back in and push it all the way down other wise you will have a pressure leak and will causes starting problems.

 

Changed the injectors and still the same problem nothing changed. Not sure what to look at next?

 

did you change the sensor in the picture next to the spark that i had posted. If not do that as i have already stated that it will cause misfires if it goes bad.

 

I changed the sensor in the picture still the same problem.