Hey Guys,

A week ago I took my 99 I30 to autozone to get the SES code pulled. The guy started the car hooked the code reader up and tried to start the car again. He then claim that the code reader wasn't reading anything and that my ECU might be busted....I know this was a lie. Needless to say when I tried to start the car it wouldn't start so I set in the lot and pulled all of the parts out to tapped the starter and it engaged. From that incident I assumed the starter was bad so I pick up one off of ebay and replaced it. Since I have replaced it I know have to give the car gas to crank it. I clean the TB and IVAC and it changed nothing I double check the starter and all connections and still nothing.

The code came back as a p0130 and a p0138. The P0138 Circuit High Input Heated Oxgen Sensor bank 1 Sensor 2. The p0139 came back as a Slow response Heated Oxgen Sensor bank 1 Sensor 2. I search the forum and read that Bank 1 sensor 2 would have not affect engine performance. Is this correct?

 

Hey Neighbor in TN - Welcome to Maxima.org. We're here to help.

I've not had an failing O2 sensor directly cause a hard to start issue. However, I have had and seen failing O2 sensors and carbon filled EGR valves contribute to other problems with cooked/clogged catalytic converters that will make the car hard to start, and in my case fail to start without running the starter for 2 minutes with the accelerator held to the floor.

The good news is by caring for some routine DIY maintenance items that occur on a Maxima with over 100,000 miles, you can make it run like new again.

Take a look at the thread link below for quick reference. It looks like you may need to care for items 1) and 4).

While I've performed all items 1) through 12) my 99 Maxima was sometimes a little hard to start, it didn't idle quite like a new car, I would experience RPM bounce by 100 to 200 RPM around 1,500 RPM when driving in 2nd gear.

So my 99 Max had hand full of little hard to pinpoint and diagnose issues that would randomly occur for no apparent reason. It was just enough to get under my skin so I didn't give up until I found the "root cause" almost by accident when I replaced the EGR to resolve a code that popped up earlier this week.

As for O2 sensors, I would replace both upstream sensors with NGK/NTK OEM quality. Since you are in Memphis, you can check out AdvanceAuto.com for NGK/NTK upstream sensors and use the TRT41 discount code for $40 off and specify store pickup. That will get you into a set of new OEM quality upstream sensors for roughly $105 and change. You can use a 7/8 or 22 mm open end wrench and change the sensors yourself.

If you can't get any help with an accurate diagnosis, I'll be over in Memphis in a couple of weekends to visit some folks and check out some parts at Pull-A-Part for my antique Infiniti. I usually bring my tools and code reader in the event somebody needs help.

Just in case you haven't noticed, you really only need a few even numbered metric tools to perform 80% to 90% of Nissan maintenance tasks.

http://forums.maxima.org/8957774-post19.html

 

CS_AR Thanks for the info. I replaced the O2 sensor that was throwing the code but it is still hesitating on the start. Next is the fuel filter and fuel cap. I'm going to follow your suggestions and tackle the valve cover gasket and the knock sensor while I have everything apart. Followed by the sparks plugs. Could you give detail on the gradual trans fluid change?

 

I just remove the transmission drain plug and drained out 4 or 5 quarts from the pan like I do with an oil change. Then replace the same amount of fluid with new. I do it in my driveway.

When I got my I30 the transmission fluid looked like burned motor oil. Since the transmission was shifting crazy and shuddering, I figured I was in deep trouble and the transmission was a mess.

So I drained and replaced 4 or 5 quarts with Castrol Transmax™ Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). I did some research and found Castrol first worked with closely Nissan in developing this fluid and a Japanese transmission fluid quality spec. Also, I knew I would eventually be purchasing around 20 quarts over a few months to gradually flush the transmission so I wanted a fluid I could easily purchase for a good price at Wal-Mart. I figured once I got the transmission cleaned up, and if it held up, then I would move up into a more expensive fluid like Mobil 1 or Red Line.

So I changed the ATF and drove it for a couple of weeks. I started to see improvement on the first day. A couple of weeks later I changed it again. It still didn't look great after the first change but I could tell the transmission was recovering from years of neglect. So basically I changed it 4 times at two week intervals until it cleared up. At the end of the change cycle the transmission had recovered. I waited a few months and made a final 5th change. That time the transmission fluid looked great. The I30 had ~220,000 miles at that time. Today it has over ~265,000 miles and the transmission is holding up fine.

I've read stories about people who get transmission power flushes and the transmission fails a short time later. I guess I was lucky that I was able to clean up the old fluid mess without shocking the transmission with too much too fast and causing it to fail.

Since the I30 seems to like that particular ATF, I decided to not "mess with success" and switch to something different.

Here's the MSDS on the ATF below. Search on it to learn the history. Other people may have different results. I'm not here to argue about motor oil or ATF -- it's all good as long as it's clean and the MSDS shows it meets or exceeds the manufacturer's specs.

http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/064FD5179C8D0FFD80257AA90053687A/$File/Castrol%20Transmax%20Import%20MV%20_03521_.pdf


As a side note, I recently tried NGK copper plugs. I bought them for like $2.95 each at O'Reilly Auto. I know they are only supposed to last 30,000 miles but the price makes them cost effective compared to plugs that cost 3x to 4x more. Also, I want to start checking on the health of the Maxima engine by reading the plugs every 25,000 miles to look for potential problems. So it gives me a reason to pull the plugs and check for VC leaks and other stuff at more frequent interval than 60,000 miles with more expensive plugs.

 

When you say hesitating on start, it that when you are sitting at a stoplight and you move forward and the car hesitates and sometimes dies,
or does the car seem to be harder to start than normal when it is cold or start differently when hot?

 

Remove the negative battery cable and clean the inside with sandpaper and the same with the battery terminal. Then follow the neg cable to the engine block, remove the bracket, sand it clean and put back on. If problem still persists, report back. BTW the starter grounds through the case so you should've cleaned the housing and the trans mating surface. But the cable trick should work.

 

Thanks for the trans info!! It's only while starting the car I have to give it gas to get it going.


thanks

I will give this try as well as cleaning the housing and the trans mating surface I will report back!