hi i think my oil pressure sensor is leaking although its not bad(only about 1 to 2 drops after a drive) Question is do i replace the switch or is there a o-ring on it.

 

The switch itself.
Wrap the threads with white plumbers tape/silicone tape before you install it.
You'll need a special socket for it as well.

 

^ Do what he said.

 

+1

I bought my tool at Advance Auto.



On Nissans I've had good luck with BWD intermotor sensors.

 

Turns out the seal/s is the culprit. Although the oil stick doesn't read low between oil changes. I think I will do this before is getts cold out.

Where should I get the seals from and what brand name.

Is there a gasket on the upper oil pan or just rvt gasket maker.

 

You'll need two half moon seals and two o rings for the oil pump when doing the upper pan. The rest is RTV.

 

So you have a oil pressure sensor that is leaking or upper oil pan that is leaking? Those are 2 very different things.

 

Upper oil pan is leaking. I thought the lower oil pan had a gasket.
Where's a good place for parts.
I saw fel pro on Amazon for $11
What's the torque specifications

 

Torque specs are in the FSM. Lower oil pan uses gasket maker and so does the upper oil pan. Make sure you replace the 2 moon-shaped gaskets and 2 o-rings that go between the upper oil pan and the block.

 

How long has it been since the valve cover gaskets were replaced? Also, do you have a y-pipe?

Sent from my Z998 using Maxima

 

Here's the story...car was purscased from a police auction about 9 months ago... The check engine light was on. Turned out to be the knock sensor and maf.... So I replaced those parts,plugs,oil change,and cleaned egr tube,and replaced the muffler...since coming across this forum and seeing as though the car drives good for being a 98' I decided to keep it. I really don't know the history behind the car. I've done a few appearance mods to it. I would love the 3.5 one day. I was quoted $2,700. But I think I may look for a 5.5 gen

Edit: car has 188xxx miles on it.
And I'm pretty handy with tools. Over the years I have done a few motors,transmission,rack and pinions and a little bit of everything in between.

 

I understand. I've been there with 3 different 4th gens over the past four years. You're at the mid-life point where the car will run to 300,000 miles or beyond with proper maintenance. I look at it like I'm setting up the car to deliver another good 100,000+ miles. I usually try to hit most of the mid-life refresh items in one shot so I'm good for at least another 2 to 3 years of low maintenance.

 

I see they do sell a oil pan gasket but is it not need.I'll order up the seals and o rings soon.
Reading the fsm it says to remove the front exhaust tube. Is that a must.

 

Like some others here, I use Felpro gaskets.


Here's a write up about UOP Removal.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...n-removal.html

Note Step 6: Remove the Y-Pipe, eight(8), 12mm nuts(Aparently on some other Maxs or I30s the 6 nuts at the manifold may be 14mm, again, just try them till you get your correct size). You will need your extension, universal joint, and both shallow and deep 12mm sockets here. Also, you may need some liquid wrench for the nuts, as they may be rusted on, be gentle yet firm and TAKE YOUR TIME, you don’t want to break a stud off.

Here's a thread with some y-pipe removal tips below. I went ahead and got a Warpspeed y-pipe with a Magnaflow high-flow cat at the time I did the UOP job.

So far, the y-pipe has been the most "bang for the buck" performance enhancement that I've made to date. Many other members here are running y-pipes that will most likely chime in.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...oval-tips.html

:

 

I have been looking at my bolts and they look like they won't move.

 

Stare at them harder. They will move.

Soak them in PB blaster if that doesn't work.

 

If everything looks wet in this pic, its because it had been soaked with PB.

 

Lmao.. and if a do snap a stud how would I fix it.