Hey guys I'm having problems with my 1997 Maxima. The car cranks a lot then starts, usually happens on very hot days but lately it has been happening more often. Is it my starter? My battery and alternator are brand new, and my terminals are free of corrosion.

 

Does the starter appear to be spinning the motor over at a RPM that has been consistent over the years? If yes then other issues could contribute to the longer time required to start.

I have seen issues with a weak or failing fuel pressure regulator cause an engine to take longer to start than normal to start.

 

Yes the RPM'S are normal, but at cold starts like in the Winter I had to hit the gas to start it while turning the ignition. Car is an auto. Also my remote start seems to take longer than usual. Car cranks once then cranks again till it starts.

 

How many miles does yours have?

 

I would replace the fuel pressure regulator because it is supposed to hold fuel pressure when car is off after driving. When the car is off for an hour or 2 and takes long cranks that means the fuel pressure is not holding pressure which in return causes long cranks and takes time to start the car. If its original and never been replaced that would be the first thing that I would do. If you do decide to replace it only by a new oem nissan part or get a used one.

 

Thanks a lot! I was going to replace the starter too. Guess I'll give this a try. Everything in the car is original so I guess it's showing it's age.

 

Almost at the 130k mark.

 

I consider the FPR a maintenance item that should be replaced after a number of years or miles. You can see it mounted on the fuel injector rail in this picture. I usually try to replace the FPR before 150,000 miles.

I bought the BWD Intermotor regulator in this picture from AdvanceAuto online using the TRT30 coupon code for $48.99 and specified in store pickup. I think an AA store will honor the online discount price if you ask. Actually the online store competes with the retail outlets so a store can match the online price or you can specify in store pickup.

There are only a few non Nissan OEM parts I use and those are the BWD Intermotor brand built by Federal Mogul which is a Nissan factory Just-In_Time (JIT) supplier. Intermotor parts cost almost as much as OEM.

I also replace the original Phillips screws with stainless hex head socket screws like the ones in the picture below. I get the screws in the Hillman Fastner section at Lowe's or Ace Hardware. I think I used M5-0.8 16mm and M5 lock washers.



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If it cranks over at a healthy speed it's not the battery or starter.

 

Could just be a really dirty TB or IACV. I'd clean those first since it's basically free and easy, then go for the FPR.

You can temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge inline to confirm the FPR is bad/weak as well.

 

One thing that will be helpful in the diagnosing of this will be:

1) Turn the key to "on" (not all the way to start)
2) Wait 5 seconds, then turn the key to off.
3) Turn the key to "on" for 5 more seconds, then try to start.
3) Does it start instantly, now?

 

Funny this was how I used to start it problem free in the beginning. I noticed my belt noise upon start up now. I change my alternator belt but does the serpertine follow thru upon start up?

 

Where are these things located? By the MAF or intake?

 

The iacv has a pink and purple connector and that big hose in the picture is connected to the iacv. Just clean the throttle plate with crc throttle body cleaner. Make the throttle plate looks nice and gold like the one in the picture.

 

Now that you mentioned the belt, I remember back when I had a similar issue. It was almost like the starter was taking away all the power from the rest of the car (like the fuel pump). I changed my main serpentine belt (goes around crankshaft, alternator, AC, and a tensioner) and re-done the ground connection. Make sure you know how to correctly work that tensioner pulley, I started to do it totally wrong my first go, thinking that top nut was all there was to it. HUGE improvement especially after fixing the ground.

Went to Lowes got some household solid core #2 guage wire, and a copper crimp on connector from AutoZone. Got some good battery terminals from there that the wire would fit in. Hammered that connector on the wire, put some dielectric grease on, then bolted it right on no problem.

This is a fairly cheap fix to try out and would benefit you either way it goes.

If that doesn't work, then with what you're saying, I'd check that fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.