Sounds expensive! YIKES!

What is the price range for 4 projector like yours in a 99 Maxima from when the owner does as much of the work as possible to when you do everything?

And how long do these bulbs last? Maybe in the 4k range unless you recommend otherwise? (but I'd want the best viability I could get in bad weather)

Thanks!

 

Price range varies depending on the set up but it would obviously be cheaper to DIY. Quad set ups can't be done ATM since R34s are still out of stock unless you find a used set.

Quality bulbs and ballasts can last years.

Don't expect to get the best visibility without spending a good amount of money. You get what you pay for when it comes to this stuff.

 

My friend has those eBay halogen projector headlights on his focus with HIDs in them. Horrible, or maybe it's not even aimed correctly but the beam is so retarded that there is no center beam. It's scattered odd.

 

I fixed some of those for a friend's RSX. Same issue:
http://instagram.com/p/sHoFW3yoph/

After the fix they're still better than our halogen reflectors with HIDs and those ebay projectors suck. Still better man..

 

Real in house test here.

OEM '97-'99 headlight with 6000K 9004 bi-xenon bulb vs Cadillac CTS halogen projector with 6000K H11 bulb. OEM Philips LVQ212 ballast used on both. You guys be the judge and tell me which is better. Top or bottom?



Don't mind the green tint to the CTS output. The lens has a purple tint from the factory so with the 6000K bulb it looks greenish.

 

So, what I'm taking away from this is.... Do the research myself.

I guess the meat and potatoes (substance information) is like CIA Intelligence. We could tell ya, but we'd have to kill ya!

No Problem!

I'll Be Back!

 

I'm guessing you swapped out the projectors or modified them?

 

Spaced the bulbs.

 

Has anyone used the Crystal one piece headlight assemblies with projectors? If so, one projector each or two? These look a little tighter than R34's. Not sure if the high beam side can have a projector mounted. Hopefully I can get a two projector setup in each. Thanks!

http://topgearstreet.com/95-99-Nissa...ts-Chrome.html

 

Pretty sure those are r34's, just silver instead of blacked out. Go for the quad if you want. H1's are probably the safest bet

 

Those are R34s..

I've done both dual and quad set ups in them.

 

i want those so bad.

 

It sucks that they're out of stock still. Luckily I was able to scoop up a spare mint set from a friend.

 

When I did a search for them, a bunch of places listed them starting at around $140-ish to $290 a pair.

Now whether you can actually order them and get them shipped may be another story!

After the rounds and rounds of reading up, better than that looks to be a set of 97 to 99 assemblies retrofitted with LS460 BiXenon projectors with clear lenses and exceptional 4300 bulbs. But by the time all is said and done and doing it myself, it would be close to $1K. OUCH!

Me thinks $300 is my absolute limit. Not many decent options down here at $300.

 

I would love to have a set of those..

 

Not too long ago, the chrome ones had come back in stock on ebay for their usual $135 shipped price like usual. I ordered immediately and for a few days there was no update in shipping. I messaged the seller (optionracing) asking what was going on and he claimed that customers were having a ton of fitment issues so the sets went back to the manufacturer. I then asked for a refund.

Bummer.

I don't know where you got $1K from (closer to $700 in parts give or take) but either way that's still out out of your price range.

I'd also tell ya good luck fitting LS460s. They're huge!

 

The 1K was with the overkill parts and mistakes on another set of assemblies! LOL I will make a mistake on the first one(s). (and not shopping around for best prices, TRS only)

But even using R34's and a set of quad retrofit projectors is going to get up there as well!

I'll most likely be using new 99 assemblies and retrofit the best all around biXenon projector in each. Hopefully a projector that gets closer to the LS460's performance without the Double D size and price. LOL

Although Double D's on a tight bod can be nice. QUITE nice. LOL

99 Maxima SE tight body that is. Sterling Mist of course. (did I save myself there?) LOL

If any of you have suggestions for a single BiXenon projector per assembly that will really out perform the rest, but not crazy expensive, PLEASE point me in that direction! Easy mounting in the assembly, even better but not mandatory.

Thanks for the help to all you that are the Brightest of the Maxima owners!

 

If you're trying to save a little money, why not dual projectors with regular bulb high beams? The projectors benefit the main beam the most. Heck, even the OEM 9004 high beams are great, but of course you can't retrofit that.

 

I would need R34 assemblies for that, right? I'm getting the impression there are none to be had right now.

And if available, still use a BiXenon projector? Will both the High Beams and Projectors be lit on High?

Thanks!

 

FX-R > Mini D2S > Mini H1.

Good luck.

 

Thanks! I'm thinking that's the order of best first, and so on.

And shapes what I've been reading, along with what you did for your Maxima. (FX35) Too bad you can't have the J30's And FX35's both running on High.

Talk about Flame Throwers!

I was out in Western NJ the past few nights and we went out for Dinner from a remote area (Dark and Hilly) and my friend's kid said let's go back and get my Jeep. His headlights on High were a thousand times better than my stock headlights. Talk about motivation!

Thanks again!

 

What he said plus these, I got the TYC brand and they worked great, a decent headlight ground made the biggest difference once I got rid of the foggy stock assemblies -

http://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Headlig...light+assembly

http://www.amazon.com/TYC-20-5061-00...VE87R1K9E7C3ZH

 

Hey Bill,

Thanks for the link for the TYC Headlight assemblies. No matter what I do, I will be replacing the Assemblies and they look to be the Winner.

So I went looking for upgrade headlight wiring harnesses for a 99 Maxima and it is confusing at the least. The only way it would be worth while is if the wiring goes back to bigger gauge wiring. But if there's one inch of thinner wire in the path, the bottleneck is still there. Will a new harness get a continuous thicker wire from a place where the current can pass unimpeded?

Second.... This Ground Kit upgrade? What I've found and read isn't all that convincing. Please share your experiences!

So far.... New assemblies and FX-R projectors with clear 3" lenses and the appropriate Bezels and Wiring and Ballast components, look to be the Best choice for NOT being disappointed and really being a remarkable improvement! More work and expense yes, but incredible visibility regardless of weather and terrain and black of night not being a problem for these old eyes.

 

The TYC headlights seem pretty nice, I am sure they are not OEM quality but after polishing (and sealing) my stock ones about 5 times in three years I had enough. They fit perfect and felt well built for the cost. They are also supposedly easier to open than OEM or other brands for doing retrofits, I have not done this though, only read it online.

The relay kits route a large power wire directly from the battery through the relay to your lights, your stock smaller headlight wires just switch the relay.

I don't know about spending a bunch on a grounding kit, I just got some $5 ground cables from walmart and ran one to intake, one to firewall ground bolt, and one long one to ground bolt behind pass headlight. I have done this to all three of my 4th gens and it fixed headlights dimming when you hit brakes and/or have the fan on high on all of them. Also seemed to smooth out acceleration, very noticeably on my 98. I think they could all use better engine and headlight grounds but it really makes a big difference on some cars. The 98 is the only one that has had the clutch changed and I think this made the ground worse than my other cars. I gained about 3 volts at the headlights on all three cars when under a heavy electrical load by doing it.

something like this -
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Battery-...QVCDV44EC69NA3

 

Hey Bill,

Thanks for all the clarification and additional info!!!

Where did you start the Grounding link cables? Negative Terminal on the Battery or close to the Alternator?

Thanks again!

And the TYC assemblies are supposed to be treated to prevent oxidation on the lenses for much longer and a lifetime warranty. I sure hope it's more true than not!

 

Negative terminal on battery. I replaced my crappy stock battery clamps with decent (but cheap) aftermarket ones at the same time. This made it easier to fit them and I'm sure cleaning up all the wire connections helped everything.

I think I used two 24" and maybe a 48" cable, not 100% on long one, might measure from neg bat term to ground bolt behind pass headlight, was pretty long. Some of the grounding threads have pics of ground bolt locations if needed.

 

Thanks Bill!

I'll give that a try! Certainly cheap enough to invest in the upside!