Out of nowhere my car started misfiring like it's gonna stall, I didn't do any work on the car apart from a replacing the solenoid on my tranny valve body, and that's like 3 weeks ago, before I notice sometimes my car will do a little misfire when I'm reversing, but now it's worst, it misfire in every gear, and when I'm driving I can hear it at low RPM because I have a loud exhaust, I checked all the coils by using a one on the front, and rear... still misfiring... looked at the front plugs, and they were fine, didn't check the back because they all went in the same time, and is just 13 months old, just I looked at the 3 injectors up front, one is missing the cap, and one cap is kinda broken, I didn't replace it because I don't think it's the problem, next I went on to clean the MAF with MAF cleaner, still nothing, cleaned the throttle body, still no fix, any idea what's doing on... all answers welcome

 

no check engine light & code?
seeeems like it could be your injectors causing a small weak point and could use some R&R.

 

I had a check engine light for a EGRC sensor p1400, been had it awhile now, if it's my injectors then I'd have to get a check set on ebay or try to buy the kit, little over a year I paid someone to do the injector kit, I'm surprise it's the caps went missing, and cracking up

 

You will have to replace the pintle caps on those injectors because its dumping to much fuel due to the fact that since the cap is broken the fuel leaks past the o-ring and dumps in too much fuel as the o-ring is has become loose and unstable due to the pintle cap no longer keeping it in place. This is a common problem on the cars and it will destroy your plugs and contaminate your oil.

 

boom!! fast act'n!!

 

so this is why it's misfiring like that?

 

Yes and the pintle caps job is to keep the o-ring in place so it doesn't leak fuel past the o-ring which would causes misfires due to the extra fuel dripping past the o-ring which the ecu does not realize.

 

I wonder if that's why when I open my gas cap it doesn't release the pressure like it use to, I notice it the morning I fell up that there was no pressure in the tank, and later in the day I started up my car, and it started misfiring, you could be right... gonna post in a hour or 2 to let you know if that was the problem

 

just drove to Arch Auto Parts store, and they didn't have the cap that goes on the end, they only had the o-rings, plus the guy at the desk told me the cap doesn't really matter, I'm gonna order it from ebay, anyone thinks this is something else other than the cap missing?

 

Yeah, the injector itself could be bad. The spring inside could be tired and cause the leak. It could be dirty/clogged. Lots of things can go wrong with injectors.

 

i'm having an issue that has been ongoing and random, i got an injector code awhile back ( like a year or more ) and just cleared it with a scanner tool and it's been fine until recently it started misfiring randomly again and i just rev up the motor and usually head down the road and it smooths out and stops. it happened twice yesterday so i dumped a little seafoam in the gas tank and she ran great until i stopped a second time after and she started up again. not throwing a check engine light but i know its the pesky injector again, spent a small fortune on maxy this year and i really don't have the $$$$$ to do an injector cause i think it's one of the rears and i was quoted like 300-plus to replace. any suggestions would be helpful here guys, like a place to get some oem injectors cheap and maybe somewhere near philly suburbs to get it replaced once it goes and it'll be soon. thanks

 

The injectors in this picture were causing random misfires and uncontrollable flooding that eventually cooked/clogged the cats and made the car extremely hard to start.

 

Well, injectors can be had for $20 off of Ebay that claim to be refurbished, cleaned and tested. Maxima_Joe may be even cheaper for a used one in unknown/known condition. But, as you know, it's not the part that kills ya, it's the labor. $300 is about right. It's actually a fairly easy job if you have the time and some basic sockets and wrenches.
I'd wait for the code to come back to confirm it's the same cylinder that's giving you issues.

 

You can order those pintle caps along with a new side mesh screen filter and 2 rings for $5.15 each. I refurbished my OEM injectors with this kit 3 years ago and they've held fine.

http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Nissa...-Feed-Kit.html

 

i also had the rpm's revving real high when i start her after she runs a for a short time. tps sensor throw a code??? what about a starter??? still have the original in my 257,000 mile max. clean my maf help at all??

 

I changed the fuel injector, but problem was still their, I then took out a plug that had oil on it, out in a new one, and replace a coil that seems to be an aftermarket one, this coil pack had black covering instead of the clear plastic where you could see the wires, and it had no writing on the long piece that goes down into the engine block, after I changed that coil out, and it doesn't seem to misfire that bad like when I'm at a stop it doesn't jump, or misfire when I'm driving slow, but I did start the car cold, and backing up it will misfire like crazy, and that was it, never misfire for the whole trip... this is the only time I drove it since the car started acting up, and it did misfire at every stop light... but I think its a coil pack, but is it possible that I have another bad coil pack?

 

Are you getting any check engine codes? I've seen random misfires cause codes like P0302 (cyl 2), P0305 (cyl 5), and etc..

 

I've had pretty good luck with the PartsGeek.com (GB) injectors I installed on a VG30E powered Pathfinder...They did the job for quite sometime and my niece eventually sold the Pathy when she went to te Navy! But anyway here's a link to their site:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199..._injector.html

 

I keep checking for codes with my phone, but it's the same p1400 code I'm seeing , and that code been their long before this problem, I'm thinking it's the gas I used in the car, or a coil pack... I used the screwdriver on the injector method to listen to all the injectors I could, and they all sound the same, but at the time the problem was still their until I changed the coilpack and the one plug, now it's not so bad...

 

high idle could be many things; MAF, TPS, crank or can sensor... or something as simple as the throttle cable is over-tight or sticky... could also be because the injectors are throwing in too much fuel causing your RPM to go up once warm because it up to temp and not running on default "cold" settings. A coil pack shouldn't cause a high idle... it'll misfire, pre or post detonate. if you wanted you could get the Nissan scan data tool and VAG COM to USB cable and check all your sensors... now that I own 2 5th gens, I'm seriously considering this because it puts dealership power in my own hands

 

Its the egr solenoid which is causing the code which control the vacuum signal for the car it tells it when to turn on and off which has gone bad in return gives you misfires.The EGRC-solenoid valve responds to signals from the Engine Control Module (ECM). When the ECM sends an ON (ground) signal, the coil in the solenoid valve is energized. The vacuum signal (from the intake manifold collector) passes through the solenoid valve. The signal then reaches the EGR valve.

When the ECM sends an OFF signal, a plunger will then move to cut the vacuum signal.

 

The link in the How To's for Fuel injector repair seems to be F'ed up. Anyone have any other instructions or directions in how to do a f/e repair job?

 

Over the past month and a half I'd have a very high Idle around 900-1000 RPM, and that's because I screw the Idle adjuster all the way down or else I'd be Idling at 1500 even when warm, this problem came about after I had a coolant leak on labor day, I was on the parkway when I started smelling hot coolant, but wasn't seeing any white smoke, so I drove it home in queens without the needle going up, but I could feel by my knee that the car was getting hotter, so I made it home, and the next morning I looked to replace the hole that is attached to the back on the Intake, the hose on the left was busted, did the job was spare hose I had, and that was it, but while I was putting the Intake back I notice my gas pedal wire was a bit lose so I adjusted it thinking it was no big deal, Once I got done I notice the car Idled very high, I tried adjusting the wire back to how they were with no fixed to my Idle, then I went to the screw on the IACV, it drop my Idle down to 900-1000 with the car in park, and this is with the black screw all the way down, so i knew that was as good as it was gonna get, so i just worked with it... about 3 weeks ago I drove my car home from Brooklyn to Queens on the highway like any other morning, but this time I flipped the O/D button off, and pushed it up to 100 mph, and that was it, parked it up fine, and went back during the day to make a short run was a friend, and notice the car was jumping/misfiring very bad, and it was do this while I was driving as well so I thought to myself this as to be a coil problem, and it just so happen that my friend had some coils from a 96 maxima he junked, so I took 2 from him thinking I would just pull, and try to see what was bad, that didn't help, I still had the problem, and for the next 2 weeks I had to drive around with the car making this popping sound every time I was at a stop due to loud exhaust, I had to put it in neutral so I didn't hear or feel it that much but it was still their, and has a moved off it was sputter or misfire back to back, and I could smell the unburned gas, so after changing out tons of coil packs with no fix I turned to the plugs, and changed all of them even thou they were just a year old, that didn't fix my problem, so no I looked at the injectors, I did the whole screw driver on the injector test, and I heard them tapping, didn't do it to the rear middle one thou, couldn't reach it, so the first injector I took out was missing the pintle cap at the end, and the other 2 up front was looking ok, so I'm saying to myself "I got you *****" so I went to the junk yard right away, and got one from a maxima, it was still in the car, and everything... so I took it out dropped it in, drove the wheels off, and thinking to myself it's fixed, now I went to park the car, put it in reverse, and boom the car started misfire again like it was before, so fast forward to last week Sunday I took it to a friend house, and we was trying to switch the coil packs around, and we both had went to arch auto store to return something, and out of the blue I ended out walking out with 4 brand new coil packs for my maxima for $150 they was selling them for $40 a piece, so they gave me for that price, it would have been 170 with tax, so yeah I went back, 2 new at the front, and 2 new at the back, now I have a better chance of finding the problem, but still no luck, I ended up with the car Idling at 900 still, and sounding like a V8 monster when it's in drive, if I had to put it in words it would look like this "tu tu tu tu tu tu tu tu tu tu tu tu tu tu" lolz had to drive around with that for 4 more days at this point I decided that it can't be the coil packs, can't be the plugs, So I took off the Intake, and as soon as I did that I notice something...

the cylinder on the far left looked like their was no gas going to it, that's also not the fuel injector that I had replaced before, so right then I notice I found my problem, I used the old injector that I had took out the car before even thou the pintle cap was missing, got everything back together, and notice it was running better now, no tu tu tu tu tu tu sound, but the Idle was still high so I looked around really good, and see if there's anything that I might have moved, then I so this little screw with a nut on it, that pretty much just for adjusting
It's to the right of the lower spring, I undid the bolt, then use a screw driver to push the screw in, you would have to look at it to understand how it works with that piece of iron that is attached to the lower spring, so using both the IACV black screw, and this thing, I was able to get it right were I wanted it, and I notice when the black screw is all the way down it makes the car a bit harder to start, so yeah everything was back together, and then I was driving then stopped, and it made that sound I've come to hate so much, and the feeling of the car just jumping, the damn misfire was back, but in this case it was never gone, I had only fixed the "tu tu tu tu tu" problem when I took out the bad Injector, so what I did was put in a aftermarket coil pack that I new would set of the CEL, but at least I knew it was good, drove it to work, it was still doing the same thing when I stopped, so the morning when I was leaving work, I changed out the last old coil pack in the car with one that my friend gave me the plastic on it was black instead of clear so I'm thinking it's aftermarket as well, and it looked kinda new too so I used it, as soon as I pulled off I knew it was fixed, I just felt that power, and the sound from the engine told the story, so yeah that's how I fixed that problem, 150 for coilpacks + 25 for the old injector + 26 for spark plugs and a few hours thinking about how the car reacts to the problem, when the car misfire I smell gas, that means the injector did fire, but the coil pack didn't, that's why you small gas, and if you only get the problem when the car is all warmed up that could also mean a coil pack a injector is not gonna act up due to temp, coil packs do that... so yeah that's how I did it, and if you so happen to read this to the end then good luck mate, I bet theirs a bunch of typos in this *****, but I ain't gonna read it over lolz...

 

That linkage you've adjusted is the cold idle circuit. The plunger pushes against that linkage and cracks open the throttle plate when the coolant that runs through the throttle body cools off. It gives an easier start. There are scribe marks on the linkage that should line up to set that correctly. Your high idle might be caused by that plunger failing to move. To correct it, you've got to replace the throttle body. That part is not available separately. Perhaps another trip to the junk yard is in order. That will correct your high idle problem.

 

man make some paragraphs... its hard to read when there's no paragraphs :|

 

When I get on my pc I'll break it up

 

Long reply!