ZoonZakal

Ok, I know this is going to sound crazy. But here goes.

I broke a stud on engine that holds the thermostat in place. I posted on here and got some good advice. I have attempted most all of the options but have only succeeded in messing up the threads still there.

I had a good mechanic friend come take a look, and he thinks I either need to pull the engine (to get more access), or ... find a good adhesive that can handle the heat, and glue the thermostat on. Then place a piece of metal behind it bolted to two perfect placed existing bolts, and use a third hole in the metal to place a bolt with some nuts, to be able to apply pressure to the thermostat.

So, since I can't afford to pay a shop, or have a garage to do it right myself..... I need to find an adhesive that will work in conjunction with the extra pressure gained with our bolt-bracket idea.

I don't want to use something permanent like JB weld, so if this ends up not working, I can still put the car in my back yard and wait for money to pay a shop to fix it.

Any ideas? Thoughts? Thanks guys

theWalkinator

That's unfortunate, but I don't think any adhesive would last long under pressure and heat, you can try Loctite Epoxy Bonding compound, it is 2 part compounds, mix together, let it fully cured before re-fill coolant and start the engine. Adhesive is only temporary solution, you best bet would use bolt extractor to extract broken bolt, the space is tight there so it is going to be a challenge.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

You have only 1 option and that's to drill, extrude and tap for a new bolt.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There are industrial grade glues, but I don't know where to find them. The military's jet fighters are have many parts glued together. The heat absorbing tiles of the space shuttle were glued on.

However, I don't think the "glue it" solution is a good idea. You would have to get the metal piece machined so the surfaces are smooth and level for one thing. I think you would put enough work into this adapter piece to justify pulling the engine.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

would you have enough room if you unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the engine?

hate to say it but your only choice really is to drill out the old bolt, re-tap the threads and use a Helicoil. had to do the same thing when i broke one of the bolts for the fuel pump on the head of one of my trucks. dont know how much i would trust using a ton of silicone

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Just muster up the cash and go have somebody drill it out for you. The 10mm nuts and bolts are not the strongest things in world honestly it only takes a 1/4 turn for them to be tight which im sure you past. ive broken atleast 6 of them on my timing cover but there are thousands of bolts on that thing so it wasnt an issue.

The only other option is trying to use permatex to seal the thermostat with the other 2 bolts and im almost certain that wont work. I know this from experience with broken bolts holding coolant lines on.

stromm

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=DennisMik;9013845...The heat absorbing tiles of the space shuttle were glued on.[/QUOTE]
The tiles are glued on the cool side. That side never gets above about 120f.

I guess I should state "never got" now...

theWalkinator

During the Christmas holidays, I replaced muffler and B-pipe, I round up one bolt that connect B-pipe to cat converter, I used propane torch to heat it up, soaked it with PB Bluster, couldn't get it off so I have to cut it with grinder and then drill throw, I didn't re-tap it, just drill a large hole and went to Homedepot and bought a M10 bolt and nut to get two piece tightened.

Then I moved to replace front sway bar link, and I snapped one bolt on sway bar mounting bracket on passenger side, there is no room to drill, extract the bolt, tried heat it up again with propane torch, use a locking vise grip but still won't be able to loosen the bolt, so I have to drop the lower control arm, the nut was welded on under side of the frame, so again, cut the bolt, tried to drill a hole but because I have to crow under the car, I couldn't get the drill on the center of the bolt, so won't be able to use bolt extractor, well, then again, just drill it through and got a M10 bolt and nut to fasten it.

Spent whole day just to get the two bolts under control. Nothing worse than broken/seized bolt while fixing the car!

4thGenTuner

iTrader: (1)

+1.


Helicoils are your best option.


Glue/silicone/half assing it wont work.

JoshG

don't half *** it and glue it.. it'll come off probably with driving, bumps and all that within a week.. I say get a shop to do it, thats just what I would do.

goodluck man.

M in KC

Can you have a 10mm nut tig welded onto the what is left of your stud and back the stud out with it? Post of pic of what you are working against. If the stud is broken off below the block you might be able to have it heli-arced out and insert a new stud. No amount of any special glue is going to solve your problem here I'm afraid.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Which of the 3 bolts is broken?

97_GXE

Could you try maybe E6000? It holds up to heat very well and is removable. It's like a rubber industrial strength glue. But...I can't guarantee it will hold up to engine heat, and it needs to set for 24-48 hours for maximum strength. But, it holds in minutes, sometimes seconds.

Otherwise, for some reason I can't picture what is broken. If it's a bolt broken off inside, you may be able to take some pliers and even if it's just a tiny piece sticking out, you can twist it out.

That said, it's reason why I Stopped using torque wrenches...not saying that's what you did, but I've broken some bolts mixing up the torques.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i dont use torque wrenches on anything besides headbolts really. thermostat housing bolts and the like i have a habit of overtightening so i just use quarter inch ratchets and put them snug

97_GXE

Ah okay. Yeah I've kinda learns that once a bolt stops, it's tight enough. Although, when replacing my radiator...it's hard to get those snap ring type screws tight enough. Hope someone's dog didn't walk the few yards I drove around.m

Daniel VQ30life

iTrader: (2)

I always just use new hose clamps , the ones with the 5/16 hex head and tighten with a nut driver

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Wow this is Epic!!!! All the years of experience tells me you could have done it right the first day you posted this! You aren't gonna invent some new High Tech repair, with messing around with adhedsives,...Hell just pull the engine and heli-arc the thermostatic housing on permanently, be sure to leak check it for porous welds!!!

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

most external stuff i dont need torque wrenches.

But anything internally aside from cams, you really dont need a torque wrench to tighten the cams. Common sense takes over more than anything dealing with them. But anything with a 10, 12, 14mm bolt i dont bother with a torque wrench. Again common sense is more valuable than anything.

You have to break a few of those 10mm bolts to get an idea of how strong they are which its not very. i had atleast 4 broken bolts in my timing cover at one point.

I'm still curious on what kind of "glue" he would use.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I'm still curious on what kind of "glue" he would use.[/QUOTE]
Hopefully not sorry A$$ Gorilla Glue which is overrated and hyped like crazy!!! I say after welding the thermostatic housing, weld the engine mount in, close the hood and weld that shut, and let him get in the car and weld all the doors shut and glue his hands and feets to their respective controls and send him on his way!

sonicrunch

maybe this. You would need to scuff the adhesion surfaces to provide for mechanical adhesion.


http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epx...g-Compound.htm