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NEED HELP!! 97 3.0 AT No crank/No start

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Old 02-04-2015, 08:59 PM
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NEED HELP!! 97 3.0 AT No crank/No start

97 3.0 A/T, no start/no crank condition. Tested ignition switch, no slack from tumbler to switch. Nothing when I activate ignition switch removed from the cylinder but relays do engage. Jumped starter b and c terminal, it spins but doesn't engage or crank. Does NOT have 12V at signal wire when on start. Tested anti theft and immobilizer relays, OK. Fuses are OK. Any solutions?
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:33 AM
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The result you got when you jumpered terminals B & C together is exactly what should have happened.

Not having 12 volts at the signal wire - is this the small wire on the the starter, also called terminal/test point A?

Assuming it is, that could be caused by several things.

Firstly, you said you checked the immobilizer. A 1997 does not have an immobilizer, 1999 was the first year. Immaterial since the Nissan immobilizer does not prevent the engine from cranking.

Secondly, it depends on whether the car is an automatic or a manual. They are not the same.

On an auto trans car, the transmission has a park/neutral switch that prevents the starter from working if the shift lever is not in park or neutral positions. You can try wiggling the lever around while it is in park or you can put the lever in neutral and see if the starter works.

On a standard trans car, there is a switch operated by the clutch pedal. It is under the dash on the clutch pedal. When you step on the clutch pedal, the switch closes and completes the circuit to the starter solenoid, signal wire. You can jumper the wires of this switch together and see if the starter cranks. Just be sure you don't have the transmission in gear.
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:16 AM
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Thanks. Yes, by signal wire, I was referring to the test point A. Also, I meant to say the inhibitor relay, not immobilizer.

It is automatic. I will try the neutral switch later today to see what results I get.

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Old 02-05-2015, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by J_Langan
Thanks. Yes, by signal wire, I was referring to the test point A. Also, I meant to say the inhibitor relay, not immobilizer.

It is automatic. I will try the neutral switch later today to see what results I get.
To rule out inhibitor relay, jump pin 3&4 or 6&7 (I cannot remember exactly but there is a diagram on the cover of the relay), also, swap anti-thief relay with windshield wiper relay.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by theWalkinator
To rule out inhibitor relay, jump pin 3&4 or 6&7 (I cannot remember exactly but there is a diagram on the cover of the relay), also, swap anti-thief relay with windshield wiper relay.
For an auto trans car, jumper pins 6 and 7.

When you do this, you bypass the inhibitor relay, the theft system and the park/neutral switch. You don't have to swap the anti-theft relay at the same time if you don't feel like it.

If the car doesn't start, it would point back at the the ignition switch.

If the car starts with the jumper installed, all it it means is that the ignition switch is good. The jumper bypasses the park neutral switch, anti-theft relay and the inhibitor relay.

Like you said, swap the anti-theft relay with the windshield wiper relay and see what happens. However, for the inhibitor relay, I don't think there is another one like that used in the car, so you would have to check voltages on the pins.
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