Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

My car's dead ... for about a week now.

Garaged, hood up, a bit of a mess and I'm obsessing.

A little progress ... working through some things and to not initiate my own crying in own proverbial beer and perhaps bore you all with signs and symptoms you've read a buzzillion times before, I have 2 Qs at this time:

(a) Does a fuel pressure regulator, that is NOT leaking fuel to the vacuum hose, necessarily indicate that the fuel pressure regulator has NOT truly failed?

2. In the event that a failed/failing coil-pack is present, would not a DTC be generated immediately upon startup?

Your thoughts and prayers are both welcomed and appreciated.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

1) Check fuel pressure with a gauge.
2) No, if the secondary side faults, the ECU has to detect the misfire by looking at the crank signals, that could take a while.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

no and no.

I had a bad FPR, and it didn't leak into the vacuum hose.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

NATS?

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

Security light on while trying to start it? And all it does is crank?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

No anti- theft issue going on.

Terrible flooding indicative of a blown injector or 5.

I'm just going through some motions checking some items before I start pulling injectors ... or should I say, before I start pulled parts so I can start pulling injectors.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Crank sensors. Take me off, clean out the dirt and metallic particles. Put them back on.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Already done.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

So you have fuel, did you check for spark? A missing crank signal will cause a no start flooding condition.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

New and installed pieces:

Cam position sensor;
Both crank position sensors ;
Coolant temp sensor.

I'm currently checking resistance in the coil packs.

I've got a new fuel pressure regulator waiting to go in if all the coil packs checkout OK.

If these don't fix the issue then it would appear that I have a failed injector or 2 or 3 and need tear into those.

315max

i would pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the car over a few times to clear out any fuel. then while cranking the engine plug the fuse back in. i have leaky injectors and thats how i start my car every time. works like a dream

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Has this been resolved? I assume that, after a day of leaving the car alone, the first time trying to start it the next day you totally floored the pedal? Too much fuel could be matched with too much air.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Nope ... not yet anyway.

I've got a new FPR that'll go in today and if that doesn't clear things up its on to the injectors which means it's on to an UIM removal.

Since it'll be on to an UIM removal it'll be on to VC gaskets and EGR and IAC cleanup.

I've actually got a gasket set, a new PCV, a new guide tube and a smorgasbord of relative specialty tools just calling my name.

And BTW.

There's not been a need to floor it on startup. It'll start just fine.

It just runs like total a**, wreaks of fuel and dumps raw fuel into the exhaust. Once it's running (like a**) the accelerator can't be touched as it'll bog ... it's the too much fuel thing. Waaay too much fuel.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Lol I think we were all diagnosing a no start issue.

So the car starts but is undrivable. You can change your FPR because it's most likely done, but I don't think it is your issue.

Massive flooding I can only think an injector or 2 or 3.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

My thinking as well now that the new FPR has made no difference.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Maybe before getting the injector rebuild kit, try tcw3.

It costs next to nothing and you just drop it into your tank.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Nope ain't nothin in a bottle gonna fix this ...

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Hope you plan to send them out for servicing/cleaning. You'll get new pintle caps, screens, o-rings as part of the deal too.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

True that.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

That's the plan.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Good luck in getting those worn injectors rebuilt.

How did you remove the FPR screws? I tried loosening those brass screws last week when I had the TB removed but they wouldn't budge. I've been spraying PB blaster on them for months. Since they're brass I fear of stripping them if I give them too much torque.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

I actually used a very correct fitting Phillips bit, the appropriately sized socket for the Phillips bit, a 6" extension and a 10" ratchet.



With this setup I was able to apply adequate lateral force into the screw head to keep the bit from slipping and I was able to apply enough slow and easy torque to break the screws loose.

I used the same setup to remove the injector cap screws.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

^ That's how I do it too. With one hand pushing down hard on top of the ratchet (to prevent the brass screw from easily stripping) and the other hand pushing the end of the ratchet, these screws come out with ease and w/o stripping.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

... right on ...

I'm not sure the ease of removal isn't related to the condition/cleanliness/upkeep of the e-compartment but that whole vice-grip hassle is kinda BS IMO.

CS_AR

Is the recommended approach to leave the rails mounted on the engine intake so an appropriate level of force can be applied to the ratchet while being turned?

It is always an adventure when you are working with rails where someone a decade earlier managed to mangle the brass Phillips head screws.

The rails leave a tell tale history of earlier maintenance sessions. You can see the purple injector was a later addition to the rail in the picture below. Whoever installed the new injector didn't bother to change the brass screws.

Now you can see why I really like using socket head cap screws.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Yeah buddy ...

I'm taking your advice and as a Phillips screw comes out a cap head goes in.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the tip. I have those wider phillips tips and rachet extensions. I'll replace the FPR this weekend.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I replaced those easily stripped phillips headed bolts on the injectors, coilpacks, TPS....with hex headed bolts. I'll throw on allen headed bolts on the FPR.