advice on coil packs
02-11-2015, 08:49 AM
#2
For spark plugs, use what Nissan installed originally - NGK PFR5G-11.
DO NOT get e-bay coils, they fail in 6 to 12 months. Auto parts store coils have a spotty record, one time they are good, another time they are like e-bay coils. It is highly recommended that you use the Nissan ignition coils. If you order them from an on-line place like nissanpartszone.com or courtesyparts.com, it is usually less expensive than your local dealer.
An exception to this is rockauto.com. They sell the Hitachi brand which is the brand Nissan installed in the car.
In case you don't know, you need 2 different coils. The ones by the firewall (called the right side of the engine) are different from the ones by the radiator (called the left side of the engine).
DO NOT get e-bay coils, they fail in 6 to 12 months. Auto parts store coils have a spotty record, one time they are good, another time they are like e-bay coils. It is highly recommended that you use the Nissan ignition coils. If you order them from an on-line place like nissanpartszone.com or courtesyparts.com, it is usually less expensive than your local dealer.
An exception to this is rockauto.com. They sell the Hitachi brand which is the brand Nissan installed in the car.
In case you don't know, you need 2 different coils. The ones by the firewall (called the right side of the engine) are different from the ones by the radiator (called the left side of the engine).
02-11-2015, 09:05 AM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 451
If u can find the Mitsubishi coil packs for the maxima that would be great as those were the best coils for our cars. At the time hanshin coils would fail but these would lastvfor a very long time as they were a better quality product.
02-11-2015, 09:17 AM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 13
02-11-2015, 09:37 AM
#7
+1 ... what's your issue.?
A resistance test on your coil packs will give an idea of their health.
If the resistance tests out OK, then perhaps have a look at cleaning the coil contacts and boot spring ends.
If you're still having issues and you're certain it's the coils, perhaps replacing just the boots (+ springs) would be a better alternative to replacing the entire coil assembly.
A resistance test on your coil packs will give an idea of their health.
If the resistance tests out OK, then perhaps have a look at cleaning the coil contacts and boot spring ends.
If you're still having issues and you're certain it's the coils, perhaps replacing just the boots (+ springs) would be a better alternative to replacing the entire coil assembly.
02-11-2015, 11:41 AM
#9
P0141
- Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit fuse
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit open shorted to ground
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
P1320
- Faulty power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Ignition primary circuit is open or shorted (circuit to ignition coils)
- Ignition primary circuit poor electrical connection (circuit to ignition coils)
- Faulty ignition system condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor circuit
P0300
- Faulty spark plug (s)
- Faulty ignition coil (s)
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
- Intake air leak
- Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinders compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
Of these possible issues what have you ruled out?
- Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit fuse
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit open shorted to ground
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
P1320
- Faulty power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Ignition primary circuit is open or shorted (circuit to ignition coils)
- Ignition primary circuit poor electrical connection (circuit to ignition coils)
- Faulty ignition system condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor circuit
P0300
- Faulty spark plug (s)
- Faulty ignition coil (s)
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
- Intake air leak
- Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinders compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
Of these possible issues what have you ruled out?
02-11-2015, 01:19 PM
#11
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 13
Wow...im looking @ buying a new max..with that List.
8 know their isn't a quick fix..being charged 100 an hr..4 work...was hoping coil packs and sparks..would @ least
help out 1 code...and the cat.conver..is dead..that's $200+
Muffler extra $100..not going cheap
but trying to save a dollar
8 know their isn't a quick fix..being charged 100 an hr..4 work...was hoping coil packs and sparks..would @ least
help out 1 code...and the cat.conver..is dead..that's $200+
Muffler extra $100..not going cheap
but trying to save a dollar
02-14-2015, 08:48 AM
#18
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Posts: 13
02-14-2015, 08:56 AM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
On your coil packs, do you see a name or emblem to identify a manufacturer?
If someone replaced ALL of the OEM packs with some aftermarket brand made in China, it could be the reason for a number of failing packs at the same time.
If someone replaced ALL of the OEM packs with some aftermarket brand made in China, it could be the reason for a number of failing packs at the same time.
02-14-2015, 05:28 PM
#20
Wrecking yard OEM would be better than after market. After market tend to run fine, but trigger a CEL, as the primary windings don't have the right number of turns, always show the wrong ohms.
Do a balance test, unplugging one coil at a time to see which ones make no difference. Then only replace the bad with OEM from a member or yard.
Mitsubishi first, then Hanshin.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Do a balance test, unplugging one coil at a time to see which ones make no difference. Then only replace the bad with OEM from a member or yard.
Mitsubishi first, then Hanshin.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
02-14-2015, 05:42 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Wrecking yard OEM would be better than after market. After market tend to run fine, but trigger a CEL, as the primary windings don't have the right number of turns, always show the wrong ohms.
Do a balance test, unplugging one coil at a time to see which ones make no difference. Then only replace the bad with OEM from a member or yard.
Mitsubishi first, then Hanshin.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Do a balance test, unplugging one coil at a time to see which ones make no difference. Then only replace the bad with OEM from a member or yard.
Mitsubishi first, then Hanshin.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
02-15-2015, 01:07 AM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 13
02-15-2015, 01:18 AM
#23
yup, don't throw money at the car. you'll learn the expensive way that that's no way to remedy problems with an old car. i have my original coils with 266,000 miles on them, find another mechanic, sounds like this one is just looking to spend your money for you.
02-15-2015, 07:43 AM
#24
+1
With the engine running pull the coilpack. Do them all separately. If the engine shows no difference in performance then that coilpack is gone.
As members have noted your cheapest and best chance option is to pull OEM coilpacks at the JY.
With the engine running pull the coilpack. Do them all separately. If the engine shows no difference in performance then that coilpack is gone.
As members have noted your cheapest and best chance option is to pull OEM coilpacks at the JY.
Last edited by jholley; 02-15-2015 at 07:53 AM.
02-15-2015, 08:08 AM
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philly Suburb
Posts: 393
02-15-2015, 08:14 AM
#26
03-03-2015, 08:08 AM
#28
P0141
- Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit fuse
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit open shorted to ground
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
This could simply be a bad connection. Try unplugging that sensor then plug it back in. Corrosion/rust on the connector could cause bad readings to the ECU. A simple re-connect would brush some of that corosion away.
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