i'm showing a code for one but the cars running fine. the service guy at my local dealer ( who was a nissan tech for 23 years ) says he only replaced 1 in all the nissans he worked on over that time period.

he agrees it retards the timing, but says the sensor is a ghost code, ( we all know that ) and is not necessary to replace. i left a knock sensor code go for 3 years, and to be honest the car ran exactly the same way after i replaced it.

i always wondered what the purpose was, and it seems like a waste of time for it to be there. did all those old datsuns have them? no, so what's their reasoning behind the knock sensor on our cars and others as well?? discuss

p.s btw, i know this guy and he's legit. trust his opinion 95% of the time over op's

 

Your dealer is 100% correct when he says you dont have to replace it.

However you are infact losing power and your gas mileage is down considerably. You may not have noticed it when you went from a bad ks to a new one, but the difference is there. The sensor basically detects engine knock. If your engine is knocking, it means trouble, so your knock sensor will detect this and trigger the ecu to retard the engine timing to make the engine work more safely. The tradeoff of having the engine play it safe is that its no longer performing optimally, and you end up losing potential power and MPGs. If the sensor is bad, it will enable this safe mode by default just in case, as the sensor cant pick up any knocking. Most people knowledgable about their car will hear knock and know their is a problem just by listening. For everyone else, this sensor is basically their safety net.

If you have a 95-98, theres no reason to not change it. If you have a 99' then i could understand letting it rock as its a pita to do without taking off the intake manifolds on a 99'. If you are looking to get the most out of your max, just do it. If youre looking to get to point a to point b by any means, then dont worry about it.

 

i could'nt hear a knock over the stereo anyway but seriously, i've never heard a knock coming from the engine as it's well maintained. i might replace it in a few weeks. need some other repairs first.

 

What they mean by "knock" is actually detonation. Caused by Low quality fuel. Climate change and too much timing so the computer backs off the timing to protect the engine from detonation.
Detonation causes Pistons to crack. Detonation is bad. Mmmkay?

 

soo your car ran exactly the same with a bad knock sensor compared to a new one?

is that the reason why "Waste of time" comes out from him?

 

It is a waste of time. Throw a resistor in the harness and call it a day.

 

Wheres the write up for this.

 

IMO, you have no excuse not to change it. The part costs $10 and it will take you 20 minutes to change it. Enjoy your new found power.

My ex gf had a bad KS on her 99 Ca spec I30 for 4 years, she didn't care because she drove like a grandma/didn't need the power and we know a smog shop that will let her pass emissions with the ghost code present.

Well, I had to rip off the manifold last year to replace the injectors, so I did the KS as well since I was in there. Afterwards she was like, "holy cow, my car has a lot more pick up and is fast!"..."I had no idea that a KS made that big of a difference" I said, "I told you so!"

 

took me like 30mins and i have big hands. It is well worth changing.

 

Knock sensor resistor mod

There is no good reason not to just get a $10 eBay sensor and be done with it.

 

yeah, i found 1 cheap, but $10.00 wiz?? where da heck do you get an oem knock sensor for that, and i was told an hour and a half for labor. we all know it doesn't take that long, where's the write-up?? part number 22060-30P00, correct? thanks

 

Does this look like an OEM JEGS with the Nissan Logo and all?

Actually the part is a SMP Intermotor (www.RockAuto.com) from one of Nissan's Just-In-Time supply partners named Federal Mogul.



Here's a video for the 1/4 inch drive with universal joint and extension to reach under the intake. I use the same approach.

 

I done it the same way .. Take a flashlight and look for cracks all around if so then change it

 

Laziness really lol a When the manifold is off, I'll change it because going boost.

 

I bought a $5 eBay knock sensor that was supposedly OEM but obviously didn't come in the Nissan plastic bag. Works just fine.

 

My ebay one has been doing fine after more then a year.
CEL was on when i purchased the car from a auction.(vehicle not test driven)

 

The knock sensor will make your car run like a 4 cyl,than all the problems accure maintaince wise.

 

Unplugg your knock sensor from the sub harness, see if anything happens. I'm pretty sure nissan put it there for no reason.

 

It's there to detect knock

 

I know that's its purpose. He should change that piece in order for his car to run efficiently. Each piece has a specific purpose. Prolonging replacing pieces just leads to more complications down the road...literally..

 

I'm an OEM part kind of guy. The last OEM one I purchased was $35 off of Ebay. Nissan logo was stamped on it, came in the Nissan bag etc...

I stated the $10 one because that's what the generic ones cost on Ebay, and TONS of people here on the Org have had great success with them.

Here's the cheapest that I found today.

$12 with harness!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replace-F3XY12A699A-2206056E11-144-220-Engine-Knock-Sensor-Wiring-Harness-/121521413024?fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3AMaxima&hash=item1c4b3d9ba0&vxp=mtr
OEM $30
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Engine-Knock-Sensor-Fits-Nissan-Infiniti-22060-30P00-FREE-SHIP-/161598968694?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3AMaxima&hash=item25a00c9376&vxp=mtr
OEM $44
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-OEM-KNOCK-SENSOR-22060-30P00-MADE-IN-JAPAN-/251113929546?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3AMaxima&hash=item3a778e7b4a&vxp=mtr
The part # you listed is correct.

 

The part I bought did not claim to to OEM, but with all the markings I believe it was. I paid $10 for this.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ck-sensor.html

 

Look at the bright side. Replacement could be a lot worse. It could take 2 to 3 days of work to reach knock sensors buried under layers of UIM, injectors, and LIM like it is on a VH.

At least we don't have to worry about our KS harnesses being chewed up by some varmint. Actually some harnesses insulation material is made from a soy product that must be a tasty treat for rodents.

 

what I been trying to say.

 

i got one for you guys, had a mienieke garage tell me 4 hours for replacement time at 103.99 an hour labor!!!

 

holy **** what a rape.

 

My son actually helped me with this when he was little. It was easier for him to get his hand under the intake plenum. As for the results after....gas mileage went up & the car didn't have the hesitation that was there before.

 

After he said that, you should have popped your hood, pointed to it, and said, "Really?!!"

He must of been think 99 CA spec...

On the other hand, why do you keep getting quotes? I know you can do this yourself.

 

i just got an oem knock sensor for 19.99 off ebay!!! it was 30.00 or best offer and i offered him 14.99 and he came back at me with 19.99!!! woot!!

 

i gotta be honest here wiz, i watched a video and then looked at where it is yesterday and i was like, " holy crap, that's buried pretty deep!!" i know i'd be cursing for awhile trying to get at that damn spot, especially with no swivel socket and man hands.

 

The cheapest I found for OEM was a little over $100. That was quite a few years back.

 

that was when our cars were a bit newer and i know i paid about 75.00 for my last one 7-8 years ago. from ebay!!

 

I just recently had mines installed in 2012,nissan is not that cheap but it's worth it.

 

You can pickup an entire 1/4" socket set at harbor freight (recommend the "professional" series...they aren't bad) for just a few bucks, it comes with extensions and a universal. Then just follow that YouTube video. You'll be done in an hour or less (if it goes smooth it should only take 20 minutes). Probably less time then you'll spend driving too and from a shop. You can do it!

 

I recently installed a new sensor and harness, but I'm still getting the P0325 code? Also (maybe related) how well torqued does the bolt have to be on it? I tightened it as much as I could by hand, then a bit with the extension/ratchet.

 

Here's a funny video on a KS change. My oldest son wears a size medium glove so he can reach right under the intake to start the KS bolt.

 

You are using the approach that I have used on three VQ30DEs. I just tighten it up with a 1/4 inch drive and a universal joint.

Can you check for a loose or broken connection? Was the KS wiring harness replaced with the sensor?

 

I like this guys thinking.

 

I bought a sensor/harness combo (they were already connected) off eBay for $20 from someone with good feedback. Connection definitely isn't loose where it attaches next to the valve cover.

 

so do i, i'm tempted to try it. i saw what looks to be a rock or 2 sitting back there. might have take some pics to show you guys. def not a bolt head which i thought it might be at first.