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replacing knock sensor, dealer says, "waste of time"

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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 10:34 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by CS_AR
Here's a funny video on a KS change. My oldest son wears a size medium glove so he can reach right under the intake to start the KS bolt.

Nissan Maxima knock sensor,- trouble code P0325- 4th generation Maxima - YouTube

Ha! I think that's about how old my son was when we changed out the ks.
Old Apr 4, 2015 | 02:23 PM
  #42  
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Don't over tighten the ks it can crack and all the work is down the drain. The ks has to be centered and directly in the middle not tilted left or right,because the reading will be off.
Old Apr 4, 2015 | 06:12 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by vqmaxman
Don't over tighten the ks it can crack and all the work is down the drain. The ks has to be centered and directly in the middle not tilted left or right,because the reading will be off.
I'm fairly certain I didn't tighten it enough to crack. And it is straight. The problem is I'm getting infinite (overload) resistance when I measure from either prong of the harness connector to the battery negative terminal. My old bad sensor gave the same reading, and that one had 235k miles on it.
Old Apr 4, 2015 | 06:36 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by uttadms31
I'm fairly certain I didn't tighten it enough to crack. And it is straight. The problem is I'm getting infinite (overload) resistance when I measure from either prong of the harness connector to the battery negative terminal. My old bad sensor gave the same reading, and that one had 235k miles on it.
Just throw in a resistor. Call it a day.
Old Apr 4, 2015 | 08:53 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
Just throw in a resistor. Call it a day.
But when the OEM part can cost as little as $20, and can be done in 20 minutes, why cut corners?
Old Apr 4, 2015 | 09:30 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
But when the OEM part can cost as little as $20, and can be done in 20 minutes, why cut corners?
Because he changed the sensor and harness and is still throwing the KS code lol
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 03:00 AM
  #47  
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Did you reset the ecu after changing the sensor?
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 05:14 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
Did you reset the ecu after changing the sensor?
Yes I cleared the code with a code reader thingy and have also driven a lot since then. Only other code I have is for the rear (post-cat) O2 sensor
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 06:13 AM
  #49  
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Ohhh.. Now that explains everything. The KS code is what we call a "ghost code" that often appears with another code. When the other code is fixed, the "ghost code" will disappear.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 07:11 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by CS_AR
Ohhh.. Now that explains everything. The KS code is what we call a "ghost code" that often appears with another code. When the other code is fixed, the "ghost code" will disappear.
But 1) I'm still getting infinite resistance when I use an ohmeter connected also to the negative battery terminal, and 2) I've noticed no gains in power or fuel economy. Old one was cracked bad so I knew it had to be replaced
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 08:09 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by uttadms31
But 1) I'm still getting infinite resistance when I use an ohmeter connected also to the negative battery terminal, and 2) I've noticed no gains in power or fuel economy. Old one was cracked bad so I knew it had to be replaced
I take it you are using the approach in the link to test for resistance?

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/max...sensor-4g.html

I just checked an old one that I keep in the workshop that is roughly 25 years old. On my Ohm meter's 20M setting it reads .54.

Last edited by CS_AR; Apr 5, 2015 at 08:27 AM.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:02 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by CS_AR
I take it you are using the approach in the link to test for resistance?

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/max...sensor-4g.html

I just checked an old one that I keep in the workshop that is roughly 25 years old. On my Ohm meter's 20M setting it reads .54.
.

Yes I'm using the procedures from that link. Here's the link for my multimeter...its supposed to be able to auto range up to the 550 kOhms area while on the Resistance/Ohms setting.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:37 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by uttadms31
.

Yes I'm using the procedures from that link. Here's the link for my multimeter...its supposed to be able to auto range up to the 550 kOhms area while on the Resistance/Ohms setting.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Au.../dp/B000EVYGZA
It has been roughly 5 years ago but I remember buying a medium priced multi-meter from Wal-Mart that I could not get to work properly. I ended up getting a slightly less sophisticated model from Lowe's that cost a little more that has never failed.

Do you know anyone with a multi-meter you can borrow that has a manual megOhm setting?
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:16 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by CS_AR
It has been roughly 5 years ago but I remember buying a medium priced multi-meter from Wal-Mart that I could not get to work properly. I ended up getting a slightly less sophisticated model from Lowe's that cost a little more that has never failed.

Do you know anyone with a multi-meter you can borrow that has a manual megOhm setting?
I think I can ask a neighbor for one. Either way, my new sensor may be bad since I'm still getting P0325. The sensor+harness came connected but I never tried to tighten them/click them together if necessary since they already seemed attached...maybe I could try that.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 01:22 PM
  #55  
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Here's something I would do to verify the multi-meter if I was in doubt about getting a good reading. There is a parts store near me that I frequent that would let me take a measurement on a new KS without purchasing it. The KS is a common part that was used on many different models in the 1990s so a parts store of any size should have one in stock. I would verify the reading on a new KS to test the multi-meter.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 03:33 PM
  #56  
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Is the ks mating surface clean the grounds,clean the ks area check the voltage from the harness it should be 550 kohms.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 05:59 PM
  #57  
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i wonder if mine is bad or if mating surface is dirty, or a loose connection. original harness, 20+ years old. knock sensor is 7 years old, i replaced in 08.
Old Apr 19, 2015 | 05:35 PM
  #58  
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The $10 ebay KS I installed 2 years ago is dead, tested with Infinite resistance between pin 2 and ground. Resistor is back in indefinitely.

Last edited by asand1; Apr 19, 2015 at 05:39 PM.
Old Apr 20, 2015 | 01:18 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by asand1
The $10 ebay KS I installed 2 years ago is dead, tested with Infinite resistance between pin 2 and ground. Resistor is back in indefinitely.
yeah, yeah, we know. ebay crap was your downfall, oem or bust.
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 01:24 PM
  #60  
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My KS went bad recently. Its not always there, but i can feel a slight hesitation with acceleration.
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 05:23 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by cashoit
My KS went bad recently. Its not always there, but i can feel a slight hesitation with acceleration.
I thought mine was getting sluggish and was worried about low compression. Powers back with the resistor.
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 05:50 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by asand1
The $10 ebay KS I installed 2 years ago is dead, tested with Infinite resistance between pin 2 and ground. Resistor is back in indefinitely.
When you test resistance between harness pin 2 and battery ground, does it matter if the knock sensor is bolted in? and whether the car's running or not? (i.e. could you try it with it laying out of the car/away from its mount spot). I tried out another at Advance Auto before buying it or bolting it in and I still got infinite resistance
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 06:04 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by uttadms31
When you test resistance between harness pin 2 and battery ground, does it matter if the knock sensor is bolted in? and whether the car's running or not? (i.e. could you try it with it laying out of the car/away from its mount spot). I tried out another at Advance Auto before buying it or bolting it in and I still got infinite resistance
I tested it on the bench.
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 08:07 PM
  #64  
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Guys, knock sensor is one of the vital sensors in the car. It effects power output and fuel mileage. No resistors if you cant afford one from the dealer buy one off ebay, you'll get a dud here and there but you will most of the time get a decent knock sensor and change the harness aswell. Seriously its not that hard. If you do the resistor mod you have to become your motor's knock sensors and in all honesty just let the ECU sort out detecting knock and save yourself the trouble.
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 11:09 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
Guys, knock sensor is one of the vital sensors in the car. It effects power output and fuel mileage. No resistors if you cant afford one from the dealer buy one off ebay, you'll get a dud here and there but you will most of the time get a decent knock sensor and change the harness aswell. Seriously its not that hard. If you do the resistor mod you have to become your motor's knock sensors and in all honesty just let the ECU sort out detecting knock and save yourself the trouble.
Thank you for your concern, but btdt.
I'd rather not have a sketchy sensor that robs me of power when it dies at 10,000 miles. I can use my ears and adjust my right foot if need be.
Old Apr 22, 2015 | 06:20 AM
  #66  
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lol how is a knock sensor sketchy? Sometimes i do wonder about you guys its not like Nissan was stupid putting a knock sensor on the car. On top of that most knock sensors even ebay ones last upwards of 100K, the resistor mod is honestly just pure laziness.
Old Apr 22, 2015 | 07:24 AM
  #67  
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One my previous 4th, I replaced a KS the .ORG way....bloody knuckles and a lot of cuss words later, i had my powah back lol
Old Apr 22, 2015 | 07:35 AM
  #68  
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i'll be honest here guys, i'd like to see a dyno with a resistor mod, and one with a knock sensor. i'll bet the knock sensor is the smoother drive, but would like to see how the resistor works as well.
Old Apr 27, 2015 | 07:01 AM
  #69  
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Just replace my KS over the wknd. Took me 45min or so and what a PITA!!
Old Apr 30, 2015 | 06:25 PM
  #70  
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You should really change out this sensor. When mine went, the car began to run like crap. I had my son who has smaller hands help me, and it took no time to change it. Once changed, my Max ran great with plenty of power, no hesitation, etc. Take the time and change it out.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 02:08 PM
  #71  
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Update to ks replacement

well, took it to a new mechanic i found recently and it took him 2 hours cause he's not real familiar with my car and he said it was a ***** getting it back in, kept dropping the bolt inside the block. $100.00 cash imo is not bad, whether it took him 2 hours or not i think that was money well spent. 1 less thing to fix. so 119.99 for the sensor and labor, awesome.

Last edited by max ride 41; Aug 5, 2015 at 02:10 PM.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 05:28 PM
  #72  
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I installed a fairly cheap knock sensor from Amazon. it has lasted for three years now. Yes, it was a pita to install.

I run the car on premium. Quite a difference in power when the knock sensor works.

I suppose the resistor could fool the computer. As long as you run premium your car probably do fine. Suppose you loan the car to a friend, or a spouse. They will cheap out and fill with regular. They go for a drive in the mountains on a hot day. The car would knock like an SOB. Engine damage results.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 08:25 PM
  #73  
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i flinched when this guys son drove off in my max after dropping me off this morning. know one drives my max but me except into the garage. i was kinda like, "wtf" i had to drop his kid off after it was done as well? i figured the money he saved me from going elsewhere and he backs up his work was worth it.
Old Jul 8, 2019 | 09:39 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
After he said that, you should have popped your hood, pointed to it, and said, "Really?!!"

He must of been think 99 CA spec...

On the other hand, why do you keep getting quotes? I know you can do this yourself.
How do you get around all that linkage?
Old Jul 9, 2019 | 08:49 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Podgorski
How do you get around all that linkage?
On 99 CA spec Maximas, it's too difficult to get around the linkage IMO. Gotta take the long road and remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. Easy job, just takes a few hours.
Old Jul 9, 2019 | 10:45 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
On 99 CA spec Maximas, it's too difficult to get around the linkage IMO. Gotta take the long road and remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. Easy job, just takes a few hours.
Years ago, I was able with some creativity to get the Knock Sensor out of my 99 Cali emissions. Boy did I get Beotch slapped trying to get the new one back in and I'm pretty creative. AND.... I didn't happen to have a 4 year old with good dexterity handy to thread it in. Probably get charged with child abuse.

Parked in a Coop parking lot, major work was discouraged. Off to the mechanic! OUCH!
Old Sep 22, 2019 | 02:34 PM
  #77  
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With engine light on . can't pass emissions . how do you have a faulty knock sender

Originally Posted by max ride 41
i'm showing a code for one but the cars running fine. the service guy at my local dealer ( who was a nissan tech for 23 years ) says he only replaced 1 in all the nissans he worked on over that time period.

he agrees it retards the timing, but says the sensor is a ghost code, ( we all know that ) and is not necessary to replace. i left a knock sensor code go for 3 years, and to be honest the car ran exactly the same way after i replaced it.

i always wondered what the purpose was, and it seems like a waste of time for it to be there. did all those old datsuns have them? no, so what's their reasoning behind the knock sensor on our cars and others as well?? discuss

p.s btw, i know this guy and he's legit. trust his opinion 95% of the time over op's
Jjjj
Old Sep 22, 2019 | 04:08 PM
  #78  
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The knock sensor code does not turn the check engine light on. If the check engine light is on, there is something else going on. Take the car to an auto parts store and ask them to read the codes for you. Not allowed in California and Maine. In those states, you have to go to an auto repair shop and pay for it.
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