replacing knock sensor, dealer says, "waste of time"
Here's a funny video on a KS change. My oldest son wears a size medium glove so he can reach right under the intake to start the KS bolt.
Nissan Maxima knock sensor,- trouble code P0325- 4th generation Maxima - YouTube
Nissan Maxima knock sensor,- trouble code P0325- 4th generation Maxima - YouTube
Ha! I think that's about how old my son was when we changed out the ks.
Don't over tighten the ks it can crack and all the work is down the drain. The ks has to be centered and directly in the middle not tilted left or right,because the reading will be off.
I'm fairly certain I didn't tighten it enough to crack. And it is straight. The problem is I'm getting infinite (overload) resistance when I measure from either prong of the harness connector to the battery negative terminal. My old bad sensor gave the same reading, and that one had 235k miles on it.
I'm fairly certain I didn't tighten it enough to crack. And it is straight. The problem is I'm getting infinite (overload) resistance when I measure from either prong of the harness connector to the battery negative terminal. My old bad sensor gave the same reading, and that one had 235k miles on it.
But 1) I'm still getting infinite resistance when I use an ohmeter connected also to the negative battery terminal, and 2) I've noticed no gains in power or fuel economy. Old one was cracked bad so I knew it had to be replaced
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/max...sensor-4g.html
I just checked an old one that I keep in the workshop that is roughly 25 years old. On my Ohm meter's 20M setting it reads .54.
Last edited by CS_AR; Apr 5, 2015 at 08:27 AM.
I take it you are using the approach in the link to test for resistance?
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/max...sensor-4g.html
I just checked an old one that I keep in the workshop that is roughly 25 years old. On my Ohm meter's 20M setting it reads .54.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/max...sensor-4g.html
I just checked an old one that I keep in the workshop that is roughly 25 years old. On my Ohm meter's 20M setting it reads .54.
Yes I'm using the procedures from that link. Here's the link for my multimeter...its supposed to be able to auto range up to the 550 kOhms area while on the Resistance/Ohms setting.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA
.
Yes I'm using the procedures from that link. Here's the link for my multimeter...its supposed to be able to auto range up to the 550 kOhms area while on the Resistance/Ohms setting.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Au.../dp/B000EVYGZA
Yes I'm using the procedures from that link. Here's the link for my multimeter...its supposed to be able to auto range up to the 550 kOhms area while on the Resistance/Ohms setting.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Au.../dp/B000EVYGZA
Do you know anyone with a multi-meter you can borrow that has a manual megOhm setting?
It has been roughly 5 years ago but I remember buying a medium priced multi-meter from Wal-Mart that I could not get to work properly. I ended up getting a slightly less sophisticated model from Lowe's that cost a little more that has never failed.
Do you know anyone with a multi-meter you can borrow that has a manual megOhm setting?
Do you know anyone with a multi-meter you can borrow that has a manual megOhm setting?
Here's something I would do to verify the multi-meter if I was in doubt about getting a good reading. There is a parts store near me that I frequent that would let me take a measurement on a new KS without purchasing it. The KS is a common part that was used on many different models in the 1990s so a parts store of any size should have one in stock. I would verify the reading on a new KS to test the multi-meter.
The $10 ebay KS I installed 2 years ago is dead, tested with Infinite resistance between pin 2 and ground. Resistor is back in indefinitely.
Last edited by asand1; Apr 19, 2015 at 05:39 PM.
When you test resistance between harness pin 2 and battery ground, does it matter if the knock sensor is bolted in? and whether the car's running or not? (i.e. could you try it with it laying out of the car/away from its mount spot). I tried out another at Advance Auto before buying it or bolting it in and I still got infinite resistance
When you test resistance between harness pin 2 and battery ground, does it matter if the knock sensor is bolted in? and whether the car's running or not? (i.e. could you try it with it laying out of the car/away from its mount spot). I tried out another at Advance Auto before buying it or bolting it in and I still got infinite resistance
Guys, knock sensor is one of the vital sensors in the car. It effects power output and fuel mileage. No resistors if you cant afford one from the dealer buy one off ebay, you'll get a dud here and there but you will most of the time get a decent knock sensor and change the harness aswell. Seriously its not that hard. If you do the resistor mod you have to become your motor's knock sensors and in all honesty just let the ECU sort out detecting knock and save yourself the trouble.
Guys, knock sensor is one of the vital sensors in the car. It effects power output and fuel mileage. No resistors if you cant afford one from the dealer buy one off ebay, you'll get a dud here and there but you will most of the time get a decent knock sensor and change the harness aswell. Seriously its not that hard. If you do the resistor mod you have to become your motor's knock sensors and in all honesty just let the ECU sort out detecting knock and save yourself the trouble.
I'd rather not have a sketchy sensor that robs me of power when it dies at 10,000 miles. I can use my ears and adjust my right foot if need be.
lol how is a knock sensor sketchy? Sometimes i do wonder about you guys its not like Nissan was stupid putting a knock sensor on the car. On top of that most knock sensors even ebay ones last upwards of 100K, the resistor mod is honestly just pure laziness.
i'll be honest here guys, i'd like to see a dyno with a resistor mod, and one with a knock sensor. i'll bet the knock sensor is the smoother drive, but would like to see how the resistor works as well.
You should really change out this sensor. When mine went, the car began to run like crap. I had my son who has smaller hands help me, and it took no time to change it. Once changed, my Max ran great with plenty of power, no hesitation, etc. Take the time and change it out.
Update to ks replacement
well, took it to a new mechanic i found recently and it took him 2 hours cause he's not real familiar with my car and he said it was a ***** getting it back in, kept dropping the bolt inside the block. $100.00 cash imo is not bad, whether it took him 2 hours or not i think that was money well spent. 1 less thing to fix. so 119.99 for the sensor and labor, awesome.
Last edited by max ride 41; Aug 5, 2015 at 02:10 PM.
I installed a fairly cheap knock sensor from Amazon. it has lasted for three years now. Yes, it was a pita to install.
I run the car on premium. Quite a difference in power when the knock sensor works.
I suppose the resistor could fool the computer. As long as you run premium your car probably do fine. Suppose you loan the car to a friend, or a spouse. They will cheap out and fill with regular. They go for a drive in the mountains on a hot day. The car would knock like an SOB. Engine damage results.
I run the car on premium. Quite a difference in power when the knock sensor works.
I suppose the resistor could fool the computer. As long as you run premium your car probably do fine. Suppose you loan the car to a friend, or a spouse. They will cheap out and fill with regular. They go for a drive in the mountains on a hot day. The car would knock like an SOB. Engine damage results.
i flinched when this guys son drove off in my max after dropping me off this morning. know one drives my max but me except into the garage. i was kinda like, "wtf" i had to drop his kid off after it was done as well? i figured the money he saved me from going elsewhere and he backs up his work was worth it.
Parked in a Coop parking lot, major work was discouraged. Off to the mechanic! OUCH!
With engine light on . can't pass emissions . how do you have a faulty knock sender
i'm showing a code for one but the cars running fine. the service guy at my local dealer ( who was a nissan tech for 23 years ) says he only replaced 1 in all the nissans he worked on over that time period.
he agrees it retards the timing, but says the sensor is a ghost code, ( we all know that ) and is not necessary to replace. i left a knock sensor code go for 3 years, and to be honest the car ran exactly the same way after i replaced it.
i always wondered what the purpose was, and it seems like a waste of time for it to be there. did all those old datsuns have them? no, so what's their reasoning behind the knock sensor on our cars and others as well?? discuss
p.s btw, i know this guy and he's legit. trust his opinion 95% of the time over op's
he agrees it retards the timing, but says the sensor is a ghost code, ( we all know that ) and is not necessary to replace. i left a knock sensor code go for 3 years, and to be honest the car ran exactly the same way after i replaced it.
i always wondered what the purpose was, and it seems like a waste of time for it to be there. did all those old datsuns have them? no, so what's their reasoning behind the knock sensor on our cars and others as well?? discuss
p.s btw, i know this guy and he's legit. trust his opinion 95% of the time over op's
The knock sensor code does not turn the check engine light on. If the check engine light is on, there is something else going on. Take the car to an auto parts store and ask them to read the codes for you. Not allowed in California and Maine. In those states, you have to go to an auto repair shop and pay for it.
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