Radio shuts off when car starts - question
#1
Radio shuts off when car starts - question
A new issue has developed On the 99 Maxima SE 5-MT where the radio shuts off then the car starts.
Background
Roughly two years ago a premium car audio company installed a Kenwood system with sub-woofer amp to replace the original non-Bose basic AM/FM radio. The installation company used a Nissan kit for a plug-and-play type installation. The company was famous for doing quality installations. From what I can see they did a nice job. I paid a premium price for the installation and I have been happy with any installations this company performed on the Maxima and other cars. No complaints from me or anyone else that I know that used that car audio company.
Issue
This week my son reported the stereo stopped working. No power to the unit. So we removed and checked all fuses and no blown fuses were found.
While I was sitting in the car trying to figure out the issue, I turned the ignition switch to the "on" position and the radio started working. The antenna extended like normal. So I though all is good again. Reseating the fuses must have resolved the issue. Next I hit the starter and the car starts as normal but the radio shuts off. Basically the radio will not work while the car is running but it works fine with the ignition in the on position.
Could this be the start of ignition switch failure?
I plan to get a charging system health check just in case there is some system drop that occurs after the car starts. The alternator and battery were replaced roughly 18 months ago. The car starts quickly and runs great. No dimming lights or any outward symptoms of a charging problem are present at this time.
Unfortunately, the company could not compete with BestBuy prices and went out of business a few months ago. I was sad to see them go. The nearest full service car audio store (excluding BestBuy) is roughly 45 miles away. Since the unit works when the switch is on, I'm sure a car audio company will tell me this is a problem with the car and not the unit.
If anyone has seen or experienced a similar problem, thank you in advance for your ideas and items to check or replace.
Background
Roughly two years ago a premium car audio company installed a Kenwood system with sub-woofer amp to replace the original non-Bose basic AM/FM radio. The installation company used a Nissan kit for a plug-and-play type installation. The company was famous for doing quality installations. From what I can see they did a nice job. I paid a premium price for the installation and I have been happy with any installations this company performed on the Maxima and other cars. No complaints from me or anyone else that I know that used that car audio company.
Issue
This week my son reported the stereo stopped working. No power to the unit. So we removed and checked all fuses and no blown fuses were found.
While I was sitting in the car trying to figure out the issue, I turned the ignition switch to the "on" position and the radio started working. The antenna extended like normal. So I though all is good again. Reseating the fuses must have resolved the issue. Next I hit the starter and the car starts as normal but the radio shuts off. Basically the radio will not work while the car is running but it works fine with the ignition in the on position.
Could this be the start of ignition switch failure?
I plan to get a charging system health check just in case there is some system drop that occurs after the car starts. The alternator and battery were replaced roughly 18 months ago. The car starts quickly and runs great. No dimming lights or any outward symptoms of a charging problem are present at this time.
Unfortunately, the company could not compete with BestBuy prices and went out of business a few months ago. I was sad to see them go. The nearest full service car audio store (excluding BestBuy) is roughly 45 miles away. Since the unit works when the switch is on, I'm sure a car audio company will tell me this is a problem with the car and not the unit.
If anyone has seen or experienced a similar problem, thank you in advance for your ideas and items to check or replace.
#3
I may decide the replace the ignition switch as preventative maintenance. Since this is a beloved 99 model, I need to keep the ignition system healthy.
#4
The only thing the radio needs is power and a ground.
I don't think ground is your issue. There is no difference in the ground between running and not running as the ground does not go through any kind of switch or fuse.
The power comes through the ignition switch when in the ON or ACCESSORY positions. Since the ON position is the same whether the car is running or not, is there any difference? Yes, there is.
When you first put the key in the ignition switch and turn it to the on position, the switch contacts are rotating in a clockwise direction. When you start the car, the radio loses power as most things are shutdown so maximum battery power can go the the starter. One the car is started, the key returns to the ON position. But this time the rotation is counter-clockwise.
Perhaps the ignition switch is not returning far enough from the START position. This could be slop in the switch the edge of the contact has burned away. Maybe wiggling the key around might make contact if the ignition switch is the problem.
I am skeptical on the ignition switch being the problem because a lot of other things in the car get their power from the ignition switch. The accessory relay is one of them. If this relay doesn't get its power, one of the things that won't work are your windshield wipers. Do they work when the radio doesn't? The same fuse that powers the radio powers the clock display. When the radio doesn't work, is the clock display on?
This definitely is not your standard type problem.
I don't think ground is your issue. There is no difference in the ground between running and not running as the ground does not go through any kind of switch or fuse.
The power comes through the ignition switch when in the ON or ACCESSORY positions. Since the ON position is the same whether the car is running or not, is there any difference? Yes, there is.
When you first put the key in the ignition switch and turn it to the on position, the switch contacts are rotating in a clockwise direction. When you start the car, the radio loses power as most things are shutdown so maximum battery power can go the the starter. One the car is started, the key returns to the ON position. But this time the rotation is counter-clockwise.
Perhaps the ignition switch is not returning far enough from the START position. This could be slop in the switch the edge of the contact has burned away. Maybe wiggling the key around might make contact if the ignition switch is the problem.
I am skeptical on the ignition switch being the problem because a lot of other things in the car get their power from the ignition switch. The accessory relay is one of them. If this relay doesn't get its power, one of the things that won't work are your windshield wipers. Do they work when the radio doesn't? The same fuse that powers the radio powers the clock display. When the radio doesn't work, is the clock display on?
This definitely is not your standard type problem.
#5
There are 2 accessory wires on the ignition switch. The primary one powers the HVAC among other things, the secondary powers the radio and windshield wipers among other things...
If the windshield wipers are working while the radio is not, then the ignition switch is not causing the problem.
If the windshield wipers are working while the radio is not, then the ignition switch is not causing the problem.
#6
Hey I'm the home of non-standard problems. Ha!
The wipers, HVAC, clock, radio, power antenna and everything else works with the key in the ACC and ON position. As soon as I start the car only the radio shuts off and the antenna retracts. Wipers and everything else stays on. I tried shaking the key and turning it toward ACC with the car running without any change.
Also, my son reports the radio and antenna powered up for a few seconds after he pulled into the school parking lot yesterday. So something caused it to come alive for about 15 seconds while it was running but quickly powered it down.
Another thought is with the 18" wheels, low profile tires, AGX struts, springs, and other mods to "tighten up" the suspension it now rides like a buckboard wagon. So as it "shakes rattles and rolls" down the road I wonder if there could be some wire fatigue that developed from all the shock treatment it receives on a daily basis.
The wipers, HVAC, clock, radio, power antenna and everything else works with the key in the ACC and ON position. As soon as I start the car only the radio shuts off and the antenna retracts. Wipers and everything else stays on. I tried shaking the key and turning it toward ACC with the car running without any change.
Also, my son reports the radio and antenna powered up for a few seconds after he pulled into the school parking lot yesterday. So something caused it to come alive for about 15 seconds while it was running but quickly powered it down.
Another thought is with the 18" wheels, low profile tires, AGX struts, springs, and other mods to "tighten up" the suspension it now rides like a buckboard wagon. So as it "shakes rattles and rolls" down the road I wonder if there could be some wire fatigue that developed from all the shock treatment it receives on a daily basis.
Last edited by CS_AR; 04-22-2015 at 08:20 PM.
#7
Since the clock is still on when the engine is running, that rules out the ignition switch.
The next thing to do is see if there is 12 volts at the radio connector. That would be pin 10 located in the larger of the 2 connectors. It is a blue/black stripe wire in one of the corners.
I suspect that you will have 12 volts there. I now think the radio has the problem. I'm thinking that a defective component in the radio's voltage regulator is shutting down at the higher voltage level of the alternator charging.
The next thing to do is see if there is 12 volts at the radio connector. That would be pin 10 located in the larger of the 2 connectors. It is a blue/black stripe wire in one of the corners.
I suspect that you will have 12 volts there. I now think the radio has the problem. I'm thinking that a defective component in the radio's voltage regulator is shutting down at the higher voltage level of the alternator charging.
#8
Since the clock is still on when the engine is running, that rules out the ignition switch.
The next thing to do is see if there is 12 volts at the radio connector. That would be pin 10 located in the larger of the 2 connectors. It is a blue/black stripe wire in one of the corners.
I suspect that you will have 12 volts there. I now think the radio has the problem. I'm thinking that a defective component in the radio's voltage regulator is shutting down at the higher voltage level of the alternator charging.
The next thing to do is see if there is 12 volts at the radio connector. That would be pin 10 located in the larger of the 2 connectors. It is a blue/black stripe wire in one of the corners.
I suspect that you will have 12 volts there. I now think the radio has the problem. I'm thinking that a defective component in the radio's voltage regulator is shutting down at the higher voltage level of the alternator charging.
#9
Thanks everybody for the suggestions.
This is turning out to be the radio. I drove the car to Advance Auto this morning and got a charging system health check.
Charging:
No load 14.350 @ 2.2A
Full load 14.270 @ 4.4A
Battery:
12.72V
681 CCA rated at 700
Temp 69F
Cranking: 10.82V
217.4A
Time: 625mS
The radio turns on and off as I hit bumps on the road. I can wiggle the face plate and slap the side of the console and cause it to turn off and on. I think some circuitry inside the removable face place is the culprit.
This is turning out to be the radio. I drove the car to Advance Auto this morning and got a charging system health check.
Charging:
No load 14.350 @ 2.2A
Full load 14.270 @ 4.4A
Battery:
12.72V
681 CCA rated at 700
Temp 69F
Cranking: 10.82V
217.4A
Time: 625mS
The radio turns on and off as I hit bumps on the road. I can wiggle the face plate and slap the side of the console and cause it to turn off and on. I think some circuitry inside the removable face place is the culprit.
#11
If it has a removable face, you might be able to clean the contacts to make it work. I have done that to several units. Rubbing alcohol and a q tip on both sides of the brass colored contacts.
I think removable faces, and especially units where the face flips down to eject discs, are more prone to have screen problems. Like anybody is going to take their radio face in with them every night.
I think removable faces, and especially units where the face flips down to eject discs, are more prone to have screen problems. Like anybody is going to take their radio face in with them every night.
#12
I know this is old but I just put in a power acoustic 710 b in my 79 camaro and was having the same problem....... it is driving me nucking futs. turns out it was just speaker came unplugged and grounding out. It only happens when car is running!!!!!!! I too spent days on this and trouble shooting every thing. easy fix and did not even think of it . came here to see if you resolved the problem and to get advice. I thought it was my radio too.
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