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Alternator Failure Qs ...

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Old May 9, 2015 | 11:33 AM
  #1  
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Alternator Failure Qs ...

So, if my original alternator fails, resulting in the brake and battery idiot lights and I replace it with a defective Reman'ed unit, would I not be getting the brake and battery idiot lights again?
Old May 9, 2015 | 12:26 PM
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Here you go this is the best deal around for an original Nissan maxima oem genuine alternator from ebay for only 190.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-1999-Nissan-Maxima-Alternator-Generator-OEM-NEW-Genuine-2310M-0L706R-/321745076465?vxp=mtr
Old May 9, 2015 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink
So, if my original alternator fails, resulting in the brake and battery idiot lights and I replace it with a defective Reman'ed unit, would I not be getting the brake and battery idiot lights again?
you should yes, but possibly not, happened to my buddies 3.5 altima, lights didn't come on the second time but it was a bad reman'd alt

I love my A32
Old May 9, 2015 | 02:13 PM
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if you get a bad reman alt the ABS, brake, etc lights will remain on. if you get a good new or reman alt or put in a good used one, the lights should be out
Old May 10, 2015 | 05:48 AM
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Does a wood chuck chuck wood ?
Old May 10, 2015 | 06:25 AM
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Alternators are one of those things where going OEM is

Aftermarket is very risky.
Old May 11, 2015 | 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dwapenyi
Alternators are one of those things where going OEM is

Aftermarket is very risky.
Yep ... seems to be the case.

I'm a dumb-a**

I did quite a bit of poking a podding over the past weekend.

The alternator is either producing no (as in zero) charge or the charge is not getting to the battery.

With the car running and with a load placed on the battery I'm at battery voltage at best with a slow trend towards the negative.

I also checked voltage drop on the (+) side and got 0.02v which, based on my understanding, is fully acceptable.

I also have continuity b/t the alternator charging post and the (+) battery terminal, which tells me there's no short in the charging cable.

I'm convinced it's either a piece of sh*t reman'd alternator (i.e. literally defective out of the box) or a failure in the ECU that won't trigger the alternator to charge ... I can't really think how ECU damage would have happened based on the condition of the car and the fact that even with all of the work I've done on it lately, I never messed with the starting/charging system at all.

I'll pull the alternator ... a-friggin-gain ... and see how it tests out.

I'm really really hoping that that's the issue.

Last edited by Turbobink; May 11, 2015 at 04:50 AM.
Old May 11, 2015 | 05:08 AM
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The ECU is not connected to the Alternator.....it just pumps out electricity all the time....stabilized by an internal regulator.
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