I was looking at the '4th gen Maintenance Items' thread above and only saw OEM, Purolator and Hastings as possible coices for fuel filters. Well, when I call around, I get these choices:

AutoZone - Deutch (sp.?)
Kragen - Fram
Napa - Wix

and

Pep Boys - (Purolator)

What do you guys think of the First three? Does it matter? AutoZone's Deutch is by far the cheapest. The first three stores are very close to me and the dealership and PepBoys are a few towns North. So unless you guys say I must get a OEM or Purolator, I'd prefer to buy local. To me, you can't go wrong with Fram, right?



Secondly, as for PCV Valves, I did not see them listed in the Maintenance link. Here's what I came up with:

Autozone - Deutch
Kragen - Fram
Napa - Echlin
PepBoys - Purolator

Once again, are one of the first three listed o.k. or do you guys strongly recommend Puroloator or OEM?

Thanks a million guys.

 

hey, got your sc yet? i bet you can't wait.

 

Hey Cuma, how's it going? Yeah! It's finally all here. I got package 1/2 last Wed. then package 2/2 last Fri. So I almost started ths weekend but I have just a few more things to wrap up. Definitely this week durring the evenings and next weekend. Something pierced the box and caved in the K&N filter durring shipping but Stillen sent one directly to me the next day. Man, I'm so dumb, I was THIS close to changing my oil (as you can see above I'm doing a bunch of preventive maint. stuff) and it dawned on me, I change my oil by default when I install the SC!!! Man, I would have been ****ed to drain out 1 week old Mobile One. lol Talk to you soon.

-Josh

 

Do all the brands carry the larger (300Z) fuel filter as well? Might want to put one of those in as suggested in the sticky (I used the Purolator) and replace it less often. I doubt anyone has cracked open all of those different brands to do a comparison ... I'd guess that they were pretty similar.

 

That's what I used to say about their oil filters.
In any case, the Fram Fuel filter has a plastic top/stem for some reason. Haven't heard of problems with these though.

Personally, I would just get OEM. You don't have a dealer near you?

 

Purolator pcv's are very good, as is hastings. Fram is no good! For your fuel filter, i find that nissan's original is the best way to go. I change my every 7,500-8,000 miles regardless! My Pcv valve gets changed every 5,000 miles! 96se (since new) 161,260 miles, Amsoil 0w-30,Amsoil SDF-13 Oil filter. Amsoil ATF,Amsoil air filter, Redline "Water Wetter" Dunlop Sport SP 5000's. Good luck on your choices!

 

I usually get Bosch oil filter from Autozone coz the dealer is too far away. Filter costs me about $5 a piece. I think it's decent.

 

Thanks Stevey. Why do you say Fram is no good? 8,000 and 5,000 mi., huh? Jeez, you're not messing around! When you say Amsoil motor oil and trans fluid, do you mean synthetic? Lastly, what is "water wetter"? Thanks.

Thanks everyone.

 

No Sir, and i will tell you why. First fram although affordable is made of inferior elements. You may check this out via www.amsoil.com or search this site or any search engine for "oil filter study." Also i change my fuel filter quite often because some of these service stations fail to change their inline pump filters reguarly. This in turn allows a lot of Pig S**T sediment to be pumped into your machine, thus clogging your entire fuel system! The PCV Valve (Pepboys) is i think vitally important to change. Its only costs something like 4 bucks but could really mess up your engine if neglected.i just replace it at half of the specified time. When i drive my car i literally feather my gas pedal!!!!!! And yes these are 100%synthetic products. Water wetter (Pepboys) is a coolant additive that is put out by www.redlineoil.com it is an excellent product. Whereas it keeps your overall VQ operating temps down, also it has excellent protection properties for your entire cooling system and its components, i have used it for quite some time. Best Wishes!

 

Thanks again steve. A few more q.s for you, if you don't mind. Regarding Amsoil synthetic engine oil, I like to use 10-30. Well, it looks like they have a "SAE 10W-30 XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oil" and a "SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil". Which do I want and why?
Regarding Amsoil trans fluid, I just want "Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid", correct? All those "Powershift" options are for stick shifts, correct? Now about the Water Wetter. Do you add that to only water or a 50/50 mix? Last question: why Amsoil engine and trans fluids over Redline's? Thanks.

P.s. Where is the best place to buy this stuff?

 

Stay with OEM unless you are trying to solve a problem. OEM is nearly the same price if you order online.

 

The XL-7500 is very good, but i opt for the Amsoil's other 0/5/10w-30 weight simply because they have longer draining intervals. Specifically 0w-30 you get a hell of a lot of protection! The filters are excellent as well. Also i believe the properties and protection of these versus the XL-7500 is much more extensive (XL= 7,500 mile drains). Did you have the chance to view the specifications to each lubricate and make a comparision? Again the differences are the length of drain intervals. As for oil/tranny fluid amsoil and redline are superb, but amsoil is the originator, and always tends to go the extra mile for the consumer. They are in the lab/researching more then they are marketing. Their ATF fluid is excellent. As for the "water wetter" upon draining and flushing your coolant system, add the water wetter first. You can add this to a 50/50 mixture. Also you might want to invest into a Prestone back flushing kit (walmart) for no money, very practical and straight forward, an investment at best. Best wishes on your final selections. One other thing if you become a preferred customer, you will get a serious discount on your purchases from amsoil (around or about 25%). Again buy amsoil at www.amsoil.com redline water wetter at Pepboys. You can order amsoil over the phone (visa/mc) and it will be shipped to your door within 3-4 business days.

 

Steve, you are a wealth of info.!! Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions. I have one more (poor Steve). When changing the fuel filter, is it necessary to releive the fuel system of pressure (as stated in the Hanes, Chiltons and F.S.M.)? Last time, before I had those manuals, I didn't! And nothing bad seemed to happen. Thanks guys.

 

Yes, it makes the transition a lot more practical. You might want to invest into a short stubby phillips screw driver. Also while you are at it clean out the throttle body. I use Valvoline synthetic carb/intake spray cleaner (walmart) and some good cotton cloths (lint free). best wishes and good luck!

 

I am not sure whom posted the instructions on 4th gen fuel filter replacement but they mention replacing the phillips head 1/4" tube clamps (on top and bottom of fuel filter) with the socket / flat head type. Its then easier to get them back on and tighten. It was not fun my friend but take the time to buy the hose clamps before you start. Also, if you have a fstb, its harder to get to the PCV valve. Peace: e3 - got fat hands to boot!

 

Nothing was fun about trying to get at the fuel filter. But thats cause I have ABS too.

SuDZ

 

&&&& Thanks again.

P.s. Steve, can you shoot me a quick e-mail so I can add you to my 'address' book?
ptatohed@netzero.net
Thanks.

P.s.s. Last, last question. Why are you against Mobile 1?

 

I have nothing against Mobilone. It is readily available (walmart)and it is a excellent lubricant. However i believe Amsoil to be the better of the two. Amsoil researches/lab test their products numerous times, and there several independent labs/test that back up/document their findings/claims. I really don't want to start a "battle of the lubricants". They are much more research/lab folks than they are marketing wise. For further inquiry search this site and type in "amsoil api" i will forward you my e-mail address.

 

Well, per your advise, I went to PepBoys today and bought Redline's Water Weter. According to the back, the more water you have and the less anti-freeze you have, the cooler your engine runs. It even says it is most efficient with only water and the WaterWetter! However, it goes on to say that is for racing only and for street use, use at least 15% antifreeze. So my question is what percentage should I use? 15%? 50%? Something in the middle? I live in 'sunny' San Diego so cold winters are not a problem at all. What do you think? On the same topic, since I have to drain my coolant anyway for the SuperCharger install, I was wondering if you have a preference on coolants? Oh, I almost forgot, I picked up that Prestone 'Flush N Fill Kit' you mentioned. I also bought some Prestone 'Super Flush', is that good stuff? Thanks so much.

 

Regardless you can still reap the benefits of this excellent product. In addition to lower the temps to some degree (50/50 MIXTURE), it has excellent properties that protect the vital components of the cooling system its self, especially the water pump. Again i would still stay around the 60/40- 50/50, you still need some good amount of coolant especially since you have a s.c. But not too much that it hampers your flow throughout the cooling system.It is a good supportive aid. If you opt for cooler operations, i would invest in a B &M tranny and or engine oil cooler. Also its not made up of oily milky substances like a few other products on the market. Even a 10-15 drop in temps is a major plus. This all works for the tranny too! Whereas the cooler it runs the longer your fluid/tranny will last. There are so many variables that your vehicle can benefit by. I have used it for months and i travel! It has kept my cooling system running very efficiently. Oh when you get your Prestone "extended" anti-freeze (silver jugs) go to walmart, its a hell of a lot cheaper! Remember to use distill water when diluting your coolant (prevents mineral build up/clogging in radiator). Avoid tap and sring water! Use distill in your battery too! Oh and prestone super flush is cool! Also i would flush my cooling system every 6 months, you can't beat the costs and protection!

 

Again i would still stay around the 60/40- 50/50, you still need some good amount of coolant especially since you have a s.c. But not too much that it hampers your flow throughout the cooling system.It is a good supportive aid.

**** Will do, thanks for your opinion.




If you opt for cooler operations, i would invest in a B &M tranny and or engine oil cooler.

**** I just received my Hayden transmission cooler in the mail yesterday, ironically. You recommend an oil cooler too?






Also its not made up of oily milky substances like a few other products on the market. Even a 10-15 drop in temps is a major plus. This all works for the tranny too! Whereas the cooler it runs the longer your fluid/tranny will last. There are so many variables that your vehicle can benefit by. I have used it for months and i travel! It has kept my cooling system running very efficiently. Oh when you get your Prestone "extended" anti-freeze (silver jugs) go to walmart, its a hell of a lot cheaper!

**** I went today and only saw the yellow jugs. Do you mean that Dextral (sp.?) one with the silver jug and orange cap that talks about GM cars on it? That's what you recommend over the regular yellow? Why?




Remember to use distill water when diluting your coolant (prevents mineral build up/clogging in radiator). Avoid tap and sring water!

**** Really? Glad you said something. I always thought tap was fine. Even the directions say tap is fine. ?





Use distill in your battery too! Oh and prestone super flush is cool!

**** Good!



Also i would flush my cooling system every 6 months, you can't beat the costs and protection!

**** Sheesh, like I said before, you don't fool around!! That's a fraction of what our owner's manual says.



Hey, I'm sorry, I keep thinking of things to ask you! Just when I think I'm done, one more question pops in my head. What do you think of all those gas and oil additives. Ex. DuraLube, Slick 50, Prolong, etc.

And what about that '5-minute' motor flush stuff sold at Wal-Mart?

Thanks again man.

 

Anyway, back to the original topic of this thread! I installed my PCV valve and my fuel filter tonight. Dam, it's not easy! Something that would take 5 minutes if it were up high and easy to get to, ends up taking an hour! The screw on top of the fuel filter wasn't too bad. I left it facing into the open area last time so that was good. The bottom one, however, took longer but wasn't all that bad. What really sucked was getting the fricken hoses off the filter. Damn, my arms are all scratched up and my back hurts from leaning over for 25 minutes straight! lol. But I finally got the little bugger. I think I kind of figured out a system now. Start by undoing the top, then the filter can flop 90^ and the botom is easier to get to. Install is reverse. And even the PCV valve gave me a little battle. I had to remove the 10mm bolt holding down the hose although not Haynes, Chiltons nor FSM mentions it. And of course the FSB doesn't halp any. And it didn't want to come out! I had to use pliers and ruin the old PCV. Oh well, it's all done now and it feels good. Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

-Josh

 

What ever you do stay the heck away from prolong, slick 50 stp and similar oil additives! They are all foolishness/junk. Go to any search engine (yahoo) and check the federal trade commission (lawsuits) (earlier recommendation). Just use a good synthetic oil such as amsoil, redline and or mobil1 and don't (www.amsoil.com www.redlineoil.com www.mobilone.com )add a thing thereafter, you don't need to. You will disturb the chemical balance that a good synthetic oil will give your VQ! I recommended the Prestone extended life in the silver jug because you have a s.c. Usually conventional anti-freeze contains phosphates and silicates (spelling) which tend to be a bit harsh to water pump seals. Whereas your extended life wouldn't. Its just a lot more protection. The Prestone yellow jug is good too but the Prestone silver jug has more protection. It is a good chance they were sold out, because Walmart carries it.Oh and avoid the 5 minute engine flush, because these cleansers can be very harsh and strip away special coatings/protective finishes inside your motor to name a few! Synthetic oil cleans as it protects. Just change it a little more frequently. I presently have 7500 miles on my Amsoil 0W-30 and it is clear/honey colored and grit free! However i am about to dump it for some fresh amsoil 0W-30 and a new Amsoil SDF-13 oil filter. Finally the oil cooler is optional, however you may want to consider one whereas you have a S.C.And the fact that you reside on the west coast (no winter issues). Start another thread regarding "oil coolers" to gather other insight from many of the other members.And or do a search of this sites archives. www.prestone.com Oh and gas additives such as Valvoline Syn-Power fuel injection cleaner (once a week) is good and Valvoline fuel system cleaner (monthly) www.valvoline.com Chevron is also excellent!Good Luck!

 

Steve, you've provided some excellent council here and I agree with 99% of what you've said, but even allowing for the fact that you obviously follow a meticulous preventative maintenenance schedule, I have to take exception to the above advice.

Using fuel system cleaning agents too frequently can actually cause an accellerated amount of chemical wear/deterioration of rubber sealing surfaces throughout the fuel system, which can eventually lead to premature failure of these parts.

Unless you're driving 3,000+ miles in a week, use of fuel system cleaners "once a week" is not only overkill, but bad for your fuel system, in the long run.

Again, excellent advice, otherwise - not trying to "get your goat," I swear.

 

i specifically stated that i use a fuel "injection" cleaner once a week (16 oz), and a "fuel system cleaner" once a month. I drive 1,000 miles per a week "MINIMUM" 99.9% is highway driving. That is roughly 3 tankfuls of gasoline (60 gallons) in one week!I truly respect your correspondence. But the "fuel injection cleaners" are not as overly concentrated as the "Fuel System cleaners" They are 2 seperate products, one strictly for an extensive over all fuel system cleaning, and one for intakes/injectors. I have been doing this since the car was new (161,500)and never had a problem. Additionally they specifically state that they are safe for 02 sensors and cats (vitally important). Again i truly respect your opinions, and i don't feel that you are trying to get my goat in any way. The dangers come primarily from products such as gasohols, stp, etc, that contain "alcohol" and or inferior ingredients. The products that i use help keep out moisture, gas-line freeze and maintain efficiency. Look into "Chevron fuel injection/fuel system cleaners", their injector cleaner is good for 1,000 miles, and their fuel system cleaners for 3,000 miles.Had i been using one bottle per a tankful then that would be to the extreme, but a mere 12-16oz for 60 plus gallons is nothing.Finally for every set of plugs (OEM NGK Platinums) that i have ever replaced, they always have a very light tint of brown on them (normal operation), no carbon, oil, crust, rich mixtures, and or any other negative fouling symptoms on them (grateful). Also the tip of the tail pipe to my car is clean and does not exhibit and or indicate carbon issues. Have a good weekend! BEST REGARDS

 

Was my PCV valve supposed to have some oil on/in it? I don't recall that from last time...

 

I just changed mine 15 mins. ago - it had oil on the end too. Unless we've both got a problem, I think you're alright.

 

its perfectly normal to have oil residue in your pcv valve.The problem becomes expensive and harmful once that little valve becomes clogged and doesn't get replaced regularly, it could really harm your VQ! I change mine every 5,000 miles. Purolator is very good (pepboys). Check out this link from chevron as you may already know? Texaco and Chevron are one giant entity. check out this link regarding their fuel additives. Hey ptatohed, i went to walmart today and i did not see any more prestone extended life anti-freeze, however the Halvoline Texaco version is very good, its only about $6.00 per gallon. Now check out this link: http://www.chevron.com/proserv/nafl/...t/fueladd.shtm

 

Wow, you are obviously a die hard Amsoil fan. I have a question though, you plug Amsoil a lot, but you recommend Prestone coolant and Chevron fuel system cleaner? What drives your reasoning behind that? Do you feel the products Amsoil offers in these categories are inferior, cost too much, or have you had any bad experiences with them? Just curious.

 

If you decide you want to go with Amsoil products I am offering them to org people at dealer cost, or if you want to sign up as a preferred customer like Steve mentioned I can help guid you through the process. Feel free to e-mail me through my profile or contact me through my website, listed below.

 

Link didn't work Stevey.

 

Thanks iwanna. I appreciate that. Your webpage looks nice, good job. Well, I am starting the supercharger install today so, out of convenience I bought Mobile One and Fram one last time for the oil change and Prestone coolant per Steve's advice for the coolant. So, in 3,000 mi, yes I will want to get Amsoil motor oil. However, I will be in the market soon for Amsoil transmission fluid. I will e-mail you thanks for the offer.

 

My comments were made in reference to the types of fuel-injector/fuel-system cleaners widely available to most people through their local auto-stores, or discount stores (and that the vast majority of people would buy).

Many of these products ARE inferior and contain ingredients that if used according to your service schedule, [could] cause the problems I stated. Thanks for clarifying the "types" of products you would use in your fuel-system service schedule.

Btw, Chevron is a marketing company, first & foremost. (you only have to watch their TV ads in So. Cal. to know this) Their primary goal is to sell their product to you, and as much of it as possible. So when they define the "use intervals," you can bet that these are skewed in the direction of optimizing their sales. (Perhaps less so than a company like Amsoil, which, far from a marketing giant, seems more dedicated to simply producing the best products possible).

For this reason alone, I would put Nissan's word on additives & cleaners into consideration ahead of Chevron's.

Marketing myths: example- the "3,000 mile" oil-change interval (historically promoted by everyone who has had a $take in oil & filter sales), but which has been debunked in numerous independent laboratory oil studies.

Don't believe everything you read. Everyone should do their own research - & most importantly, always CONSIDER THE SOURCE!

 

Thats is why i research everything that i use. Chevron is a fairly good product, i use their gas additive products over amsoil "ONLY" because they are readily available and have worked for my VQ. I am a strong advocate and user of amsoil products, and i will continue to be. But when it comes to anti-freeze and or gas additives there are a few fairly reputable selections on the market, prestone, Redline, Chevron being a few of them. Put it this way i find that one could benefit from several good quality products that are on the market, once they are proven to be reputable (decipher the B.S.). All companies have a marketing plan (competitive scheme), some just go to the extreme.Amsoil being the very least of them (extreme lab/research). I believe one should first investigate the company's background for false claims and unworthy products (lawsuits etc). The Federal trade commission is a good place to start! A lot of nissan dealers (not all) are full of PIG SH*T . Dealers in general! They are a bunch of rip off artists! Beware for some of their products (lubricants etc) come from some of the very same inferior sources that you may be trying to avoid on the general market! Only thing is its labeled "Nissan Corp" Hence don't believe everything that dealers and or their affiliates tell and or sell you! Their primary money (bread and butter) comes from all of the services provided to previous customers who brought new/used vehicles from them. You also have to take in account that the dealer would love for your VQ to f**K UP so they can charge you crazy labor rates just to look at it, and then say oh you may need this or that (milk the clock experts)but we need more time to, well you know go figure. The Nissan ATF test on this site is just one in the many B.S. claims made by nissan, whereas test have been shown that their ATF Fluid was only good for 30,000 miles, but that kept touting that it was good for 60,000 miles hmmmm (hence future repairs $$$$)!!! A company's biggest concern is an "educated consumer". And believe me i fully understand the docile sheep like mentality that a lot of these dealers and or slop sh*t companies try to enstill upon the consumer!I brought my car brand new 6 years ago, and i have been using Chevron and Valvoline fuel injector/system cleaner products (12-16 oz for 60 gallons+ of fuel) for years without incident. My VQ performance and or components have never been affected. In fact the car runs better than it did when i had 25,000 miles on it! I can start up on the coldest of mornings with one crank, and upon warm up (very smooth silk like acceleration) (literally)experience feathering my gas pedal from that point on. Further my spark plugs have always showed normal use, so if crap and or excessive gas additive usage is being fed to my machine the spark plugs would be one of the first such indicators, wouldn't they? It is the products such as dry gas, gasohol,stp, and or other inferior additives that contain alcohol and or other horrific ingredients in them or that do not specify their effects on cats/02 sensors. "Excessive" would be on the relm of 1-2 bottles per each tankful. Dealership labor in the general northeastern corridor is up to 87.00 per an hour! 96SE Auto 162,169 miles Your opinions are appreciated and well respected Best Regards! Go Pats Go Pats !!!!!!

 

Not on PCV Valves or Fuel filters but I thought I'd ask here since we got into preventative maintanence in general so much on this thread. Do you guys ever take off your oil pan for cleaning? If yes, how often? What would one use to clean it? Would the gasket need to be replaced? Thanks so much guys.

 

No i never have, but if you do i would plan on having plenty of lint free rags/paper towels, and a can of good brake cleaner non CFC'S. Also a good gasket sealant and plenty room. You might as well go to the dealer and pick up the gasket. Also cover up all exposed areas, whereas dust, sand and or other unwanted matter may wisk up inside the lower portion of the engine. Good Luck

 

Yeah, I don't know why I thought of it. I guess I just figured since the car has been on jacks for days now due to the charger install and I already have the oil out and that is where all the oil drains to and sits whenever your car is parked. So, why not clean it? Good idea or unnec.?



Whatever happened to that magnet craze some 5+ years back? They sold magnets for the oil pan and I even had one for the end of my oil filter! ... Until Wal-Mart lost it that is. The theory being it held any little metal shavings/particles that were in the oil to the bottom of the oil pan and/or the bottom of the oil filter. The marketing even showed a cross-section of a filter with all the metal at the tip! Was this just a gimmick?

 

If you use a good quality oil and change it and the filters before any sludge builds up, you shouldn't have any need to clean the oil pan. If you drop the pan and there is a lot of sludge on the bottom, chnaces are some of your oil passages through out the engine are clogged some as well. To clean those, you would need to run an engine flush through it. Unless you have a really high mileage and neglected engine, I seriously doubt this would be a problem for you though.

 

I have high mileage (126) but certainly not neglected. Should I even bother to 'drop' (is that the official term?) the pan? Thanks.

 

Personally, I wouldn't bother. There are actually two parts to the oil pan. The upper and lower. The lower one is fairly easy, but the upper pan is more involved because you are dealing with the oil pump housing, oil pressure switch and crankshaft position sensors. Don't even attempt to do either of them without a manual. There is a loosening/tightening sequence that needs to be adhered to. Like I said, I think taking this apart and cleaning it is more trouble than it's worth. If there isn't a sludge problem in the system, taking everyhting apart and putting it back together again can cause more problems than it solves. My .02