maxima297

When I bought the car in January, it had 82k and the clutch felt pretty stiff. The first 2 weeks driving it was utter hell. The pedal kept sticking to the floor. I assumed it was from sitting in a garage for so long. My bf has been driving stick over 20 years and even he said the clutch was rough. It would give me trouble shifting into 4th, even with the pedal pushed to the floor, and would make this awful grinding noise, and I'd have to retry the shift, losing momentum. Now it's doing the grinding in 2nd and 3rd as well.....but there's not much power loss associated with the lower 3 gears as there is with the 4th and 5th.

The clutch kit came today, just waiting on the flywheel. I know in 5th Gen there's some timing thing that needs to be done on the flywheel. Is this the case with 4th Gen as well?

JvG

The clutch is operated hydraulically. Master and slave cylinder. The lines in between were designed by an idiot. Needlessly complicated, and difficult to bleed. Many people, including myself have replaced this mess with a one piece stainless steel line. Once that is replaced the system is much easier to deal with. It is available on Amazon.com.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Agreed with the hydro lines are designed by a moron.

I took the 5th generation parts and installed in my 96. No timing issue with the 2000 Maxima flywheel. Only clutch and brake pedal needed to be a 4th gen.

I don't know about the 5.5 gen manual trans tho.

maxima297

I think I have all the parts I need now. Pilot bearing was included in the clutch kit. Are there any special tools I'll need to get the job done? My bf is already freaking out about doing this. I think I have more faith in the simplicity of this job than he does. He's worried we're gonna ruin the transaxle.

JvG

You will need a clutch centering tool. they are made of plastic. I'm sure that NAPA
has them.

Also get some sandpaper. You will need to sand the engine and transmission at the mating surface. This is done so that the starter gets enough current.

You will want a floor jack to handle the weight. Also the usual sockets and open end wrenches.

I'd look at youtube videos and read all you can about clutch work on this forum.
Use other people's experiences as your guide. Remember that someone here will be able to help you when the time comes.



Since I have not done

maxima297

We have just about every socket/wrench we could possibly need (this isn't my first foray into mechanical work lol) and a coworker from my night job is loaning us his tranny jack. I've got tons of sandpaper (I'm doing body work on the hood and passenger rocker panel). What grit should I use for where the engine and Trans meet?

JvG

I would use 200 grit or close to that.

I suggest taking as many pictures as you can before you take things apart. Especially the linkages.
This step could be useful when the time comes to put things back together.

You might want to replace the output shaft bearing seals if that is where your leaks occur.
Try to move the output shafts up and down before you remove them. If there is more than a little bit of motion, perhaps you have worn output bearings. That's when the transmission shop might be needed.

I understand why your boyfriend is worried. Remind him that you are not working on the transmission it's self, other than perhaps a seal or two.

Not too long ago the internet did not exist. All we had was a Haynes manual.
Repairs still got done. Now you have specific help for your particular car.
You are doing work that most folks would not dare to do themselves.

You CAN do this!

maxima297

I'm pretty confident I can do this. I mainly want him with me in case we have to run to Napa for something. I picked up both axle seals this morning, because I know one of them is leaking fluid. 200 grit I've got. My main concern is the linkage. The set of videos I watched on YouTube were of a guy who not only did this job in his sandals, but did the linkage wrong and didn't have 3rd gear when he was done. I plan to take pictures and also because I know there's a million bolts, I'm going to have ziploc bags to put them in and label so that I don't have that guy's problem at the end, with a handful of bolts that seem to have no home.

I don't know of any transmission shops around us. I used to know a guy, but he left the area years ago. Here's to hoping I don't need one.

JvG

This job will have more than one phase.
The first order of business is taking everything apart.
Please do not be in a hurry to get it done in one day.
Take a break after the tear down. Rest, evaluate the situation, or if a transmission shop is needed. Come back to the project rested.
You can put things back together better the next day.

I know you have transportation issues. Rent a car if you must, but take your time with this project.

The project is not just physical. It is mental as well. Mostly regarding attitude control. Walk away from the car for a while.
You will do better work when you return.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Instead of ziploc bags, use a fishing tackle organizer. You can use a permanent sharpie marker to write where the bolts came from. When done, use alcohol to wipe the writing away.

maxima297

In an ideal world, that's what I would do. However we have a 36 hour window to get this done. We both have to work on Sunday and his jeep is now inoperable. Also, neither of us has a credit card so renting a vehicle is out of the question. I will definitely take breaks, but this has to be done by 6pm Saturday.

maxima297

The clutch kit I ordered comes with a plastic alignment tool, which is nice because I don't feel like hunting down every Napa store in Onondaga county for their universal alignment tool.

How long after driving does it take for the tranny to cool down enough to get started? We'll be out for about an hour first thing in the morning, 95% highway driving.

JvG

You could work on getting the drives shafts ready to remove as well as the linkages while the engine and transmission cools. You will need to drain the transmission oil. A quick way is to remove the vehicle speed sensor. It is plastic, about 1 1/2 inches around. Held in by one bolt.

You might consider refilling with Redline synthetic for easier shifting in winter.
Use only oil with a gl 4 rating. Do NOT use gl 5. That stuff will ruin the transmission.

maxima297

I'm assuming not the same as the neutral safety switch? I've broken 2 of those trying to change it.

I've been using valvoline 80-90.

JvG

Nope. the VSS, or vehicle speed sensor has a wire running to it. It is towards the front of the transmission when you look at it from the drivers side. I had to change the VSS
one time. A huge flood of oil came out.


Loosen the bolt, then pull the sensor slowly. Hold it in some with your fingers to control the flow of oil in to your container.

maxima297

Any suggestions for what I should use to support the engine with?

JvG

I would read how other people have done this job. Perhaps you could wedge something between the engine and the frame?


Put a small sheet of plywood under the oil pan to distribute the weight of the engine, then place some firewood between that plywood and the ground? Perhaps a bottle jack under the plywood would be the way to go.


I have read that the oil pan is pretty easy to crush. Having removed the oil pan I can tell you that the metal is rather thin.


I like how you are thinking ahead. This will make the job go more quickly.

maxima297

The axle isn't coming out....if I can't get the axle out, I'm going to have to send it to a shop.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Which? Driver or passenger?

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Driver said may require you to gently push the axle back into the transmission, then quickly and sternly pull the axle out of the trans.

If not, carefully use a prybar.

JvG

The shafts appear to be held in by a snap ring. It will take some force or prying to compress the snap ring. It should come out then.


I imagine that it will also take some force to press them back in.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Yes, driver side axle is held in by a snap ring.

I put a little amount of grease to center the snap ring, then carefully reinstall. Works like a charm.

JvG

Ef9, thanks for your response. I'm trying to help with this issue. I have not done this myself.
Since you have been there, and done that, you could be more helpful than I can.

JvG

Ef9, thanks for your response. I'm trying to help with this issue. I have not done this myself.
Since you have been there, and done that, you could be more helpful than I can.

maxima297

Sadly, we gave up. Now I can't get my clutch to come off the floor. The guys are trying to bleed it but they've been at it for half an hour now and there's only slight pressure.

Rit

iTrader: (3)

Is the clutch fluid reservoir filled up with brake fluid ? If so, they the same process that is used from bleeding a brake cylinder is used here. Should not be difficult.

maxima297

Yes it is. We've bled the slave and master. Is there a particular way of doing this? We know there's air in the line somewhere but don't really know wtf we're doing

JvG

Buy enough brake line ...
Copper/nickel to attach to the master cylinder, then to the slave cylinder.

Bypass all the crap nissan cursed us with. I warned you about this.

Where are you on this project? What has been done, what is left to do

ef9

iTrader: (8)

I transferred that rats nest of the hydro clutch line from a 2000 Maxima into my 1996.

Came out I put a tiny puncture in the line and it was impossible to bleed.

I purchased the one piece stainless steel braided clutch hydraulic line and was able to bleed it.

I have two different Mityvac systems to bleed those lines. A tiny hole can stop your progress.

If you want to call me, PM me thru this board and I can give you my cell number.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

I have swapped many axles out of my 1996. I just recently changed the boots on both of my axles and it took me 5 hrs from start to finish. Would've been shorter if I bought new/reman axles. But I am short on cash so had to do it the cheaper way.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Don't waste your time bleading a bad clutch. It needs to get replaced. A worn clutch can get hot enough to cook the diaphragm spring, and the pressure plate will not push the pedal back up. Use a prybar on the driver side axle, and unbolt the three 12 or 13mm bolts from the passenger side carrier bearing. Either get it done or write the car off. Those are your two options.

JvG

Asand1, I believe the op is in the middle of the 36 hour window they had to get the entire project done. The op seemed competent.
The next communication was how to get the shafts loose, followed by how to bleed the clutch. I'm assuming the questions follow the normal flow of problems.

It would be helpful if the op would check in to let us know what is going on.

maxima297

My apologies, sleep and food were necessary.

We got as far as trying to remove the driver side axle. It wouldn't come out on either end. We even tried disconnecting the tierod, strut and lca to move the hub out with the axle. No go. I stupidly went underneath hoping to disconnect the axle at the boot, forgetting it's just a boot holding grease around the axle. So I gave up and had the guys put the wheels back together. Also, in the process of removing the wheel mount, I was trying to disconnect the clutch hose, where the damper is, I didn't take the screw all the way out but it did leak some. I screwed it back in and then when I reassembled the battery and air intake areas, tried to start the car. She starts, but even in neutral will stall out unless you keep the clutch planted to the floor. I can start it in any gear but I cannot shift it.

maxima297

If I could have gotten the axle off, the rest of the project would have gone smoothly. I think. I'm rather upset about this.

maxima297

One of the motor mount bolts has, or rather had, a ground attached. The ground was insanely fragile and almost completely detached from whatever wire it was attached to. When I removed the bolt holding it to the motor mount, it the ground came apart. Will that affect anything?

Finally got the car to shift, tho its rather rough. I have to feed it gas in order to start and when I try to drive it, she sputters badly.

maxima297

P1320 is back. All coils and plugs are relatively brand new, only about 13k old.

maxima297

P0100, 105 and 110, even with sensors plugged in. Not sure why. It's running rich and stalling a lot. The sputtering starts at 2400rpms and I can't Rev it any higher than that.

JvG

You mentioned a possible bad ground. What happens when a battery jumper cable is attached to a bolt on the engine and the other side directly to the negative battery terminal?

maxima297

Erm....as in take the positive clamp and put it on the bolt on the engine? Just trying to make sure I understand what you're saying.

JvG

I'm suggesting establishing a temporary known ground,then see what happens.