I have searched with nothing I found similar to my issue...after car sits for about 20 min or so its really hard to start...no codes to speak of except random misfire...which is weird...new plugs and coils...when I start it you can feel the misfire...but then smooths out...changed fuel filter...put 300Zx filter on...didn't help any....I'm thinking regulator or pump...any ideas

 

The ECTS can cause hard starting in cooler weather. Get an OBD code reader that can display the water temperature which is what the ECTS is telling the ECU. Do it when the engine is cold. The reading should essentially be the outside air temperature.

Have you checked/replaced the crankshaft sensor?

 

Have you checked/replaced the crankshaft sensor?[/QUOTE]

Haven't changed crank sensor...when it starts it has a miss...but then smooths out...guess I'll replace it tomorrow

 

You didn't search too hard. There are 1,235,798 threads on hard starts relating to cold starts and warm starts. Bad ECTS, fuel pump, FPR, poor transmission grounding, leaking injectors which is flooding your engine (and could be the cause of your misfire) etc.

 

Looks like you have a low fuel pressure problem. The first thing you must change is the fuel pressure regulator and then go for the fuel pump that way you ruled out one potential problem and then if that doesn't work check your fuel injectors which have o-rings that are held by Pintle caps and the Pintle cap becomes really brittle and breaks after high mileage which will cause misfires and fuel pressure to leak down into the Pistons because the o-ring is not being able to hold the pressure.

 

Ok...just checked the ECTS..showed 70 degrees..and the temp outside is 57...given that the coolant is somewhat insulated by that housing I'm assuming that checks out ok...I'll replace the FPR today and see if that helps...I'll keep this updated as the day goes...

 

not to tell you to throw parts at it...but the fuel pump is kind of easy to change out and not too expensive...thats where i'd start but id look about diagnosis procedures first

 

I have a donor car I'm taking parts off of...no cost to me...just the time as I work in a factory at night...and remodel homes during the day.

Pretty sure I've narrowed it down to a bad injector on the #1 cylinder...got cylinder 1 misfire code...changed coil and plug (it was covered in gas) still misfiring and strong odor of gas from exhaust...pulled all the plugs and the rest look fine to me...maybe a little lean...ran it took #1 out covered in gas again...bad injector I hope

 

Ding ding ding ding ding, I think we have a winner!

 

Ok...injector pintle cap and o ring destroyed pretty much...now I have a p0403 code that won't let engine rev above 3000 rpm...ughhhh...will pcv valve cause egr code?

 

Why do you think the pcv would throw an egr code?

 

Pcv is vaccum...I broke the pcv valve...then the code came up...I can't rev past 2800...if I clear the code its fine....

 

So replace the pcv valve, and report back.

 

Going to when I get home....from what I have read...our egr system runs on vacuum....I.e. Monifold vacuum....if this doesn't work...I'll take it apart...

 

take a look at the cluster of ground wires bolted on the chasis (behind the passenger headlight). Once had a 97 that was starting like crap because the ground wires were all corroded.

 

Through my own stupidity....I found the cause of my egr code...plug that's on top of TB wasn't plugged in all the way...bam! Code gone....also changed pcv valve with new hose...idle is smooth as silk...hesitation is gone...I can feel the difference in the car...pulls very hard now..thanks everybody!

 

Thanks for telling us the outcome!


You re-traced your steps, checked wiring and vacuum connections, replaced a broken pcv. and success.


If I have a new problem after a repair, it is usually due to something I just did.


We all live and learn. You saved lots of bucks by figuring this out for yourself.

 

Indeed, but let's not forget that the original issue was due to a bad injector.

 

True that.....

It's gotten to the the point that the pintile caps are often suspect. Age of the car does that.

Generally a good idea. to have the injectors serviced when ever the uim is removed for some other reason.