Would this mean that the fluid is not returning properly?

Good thing the "ultra" premium caliper only costed $34 plus $6 to ship the core back, but disappointed the problem did not resolve.

At least I got brand new pads installed while I was at it--though the old pads were only 50% gone.

Is replacing the hose the next step, and what is after that?

fyi my ABS is NOT functioning, but that should not make my brake caliper stick...

 

Yes, replace the hose next. They start to delaminate from the inside and act as a check valve.

 

Did you remove, clean and lube the guide pins before you stuck your new caliper on them?

 

Check to make sure the caliper isn't stuck, but it shouldn't if you put grease on it

Replace the hose next. In my experience it has usually been the hose that sticks, not the caliper. Like ^^^ said, when it breaks down it acts like a check valve. The fluid gets in behind the rubber liner and puts a bubble in it. Plenty of pressure pushing fluid downstream from the master cylinder, but there is nothing in the caliper that pushes the fluid back up past the clog. It will probably loosen up enough in an hour or two that it will roll, but the second you press the brakes again it will seize up.

Make sure to spray the **** out of it with PBblaster and use a tight fitting flare wrench on the brake line if it's rusty.

 

VERY IMPORTANT ! You may want to do this for a couple of days ahead of the repair, if you have the time. Otherwise, you can easily kink the brake line if it is rusty and weak. Then you turn an easy project into a hard/longer one.

 

Thanks for the tips peeps, I haven't gotten around to doing anything.....does the hose merely stay in place via clips, and that's the part that will be difficult to remove?

I think it has to be the hose....the situation improves when it's cold outside, or, when I don't stomp on the brakes. Both calipers floated fine when I put in new brake pads, and the pins were coated with anti-seize.....

Is this what I need?



Not having looked, I'm just wondering what's holding the non-banjo side in place....thanks fellas.

 

Yes. You probably wont need new clips though. They side in to a bracket to hold the line on. Take them out with pliers. The hard part will be getting the nut loose on the hardline behind the strut. If it's rusty it will round off if you aren't careful or kink the line. Use only a flare nut wrench. Use a regular wrench to get the size (I think it's 10mm) and go to autozone and get a flare wrench for $10.

Mine was too rusty and I had to splice in a new chunk of line. Hit the nut with PB blaster and scrape around the top of the nut with a razor blade or something to break the rust off where I drew an arrow in the picture. The nut is not connected to the line, so the nut should twist while the line stays stationary.

Of course this applies if the car is rusty. I've done hoses before on cars without rust that came right off on the first try.

picture is not from a maxima, I got if off google

 

FYI - If yours looks like his photo, I doubt very much if you'll get the brake line off without kinking the brake line. Hopefully, yours looks better !

 

Please tell me y'all wouldnt re use that line if you didnt kink it?? Lol..

 

I'm not having a warm and fuzzy feeling because my car does have a lot of rust....seriously, there is much less grabbing due to the cold weather....that's a plus....I mean I simply googled and found people being quoted $1700 to replace brake lines....car would be done at that point! lol

 

1700 might be the charge if oem brake lines were installed by the dealer, going by the book. Generic brake line and tools from your local parts store are not too costly. This project might take more time than parts cost. Spend your own time wrenching and saving money.

 

Definitely....my coworker said he did all the brake lines in his classic Land Cruiser....if it turned into the above, then I would simply have to accept the Maxima is no longer a daily driver and it would take as long as it takes to fix.....