maxima297

This code just will not stay away. I don't know what it is. I've replaced the coils once, and swapped plugs and boots twice in the last 30k miles. At least once a day the car will crank longer than usual when starting, but still fires up the first time. My brain is fried with this one, someone please help me out?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Aftermarket coils are known to cause this code.

There's also a resistor taped into the wiring harness that could likely be it, but I'm not much help on the name as its slipping my mind at the moment.

maxima297

I avoid non-OEM as much as possible. The coils were OEM, ordered online because my job didn't have any in the warehouse.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

One of the components that plays a part in the P1320 code is the crankshaft sensor CKPS(REF). It is located at the crankshaft pulley. One of the symptoms of a bad CKPS(REF) is that you have to crank the engine longer in order to start the car.

Take it off and make sure the tip is clean and is not damaged. Check the resistance, it should be about 500 ohms.

maxima297

I'm really hoping it's not. I just replaced it about 6 months ago with an OEM CPS. I cleaned the entire area.

JvG

Your sensor might be ok, your wiring contacts not so much. Some corrosion between the wire and the connector can cause problems.


The computer measures electrical continuity and resistance. A bad connection means bogus information. The computer then makes decisions based on corrosion rather than what the sensor says.


Not sure this is your problem. The cure might involve soldering. You can learn to solder using scrap wire.

maxima297

That's what I'm worried about. The oil spills onto the wires at every oil change and god knows what gets on it whole driving. And I don't know the first thing about soldering haha I snip and shave wires and twist them with another wire. That's the extent of my electrical tampering.

JvG

Twisted wires in an area where moisture and road salt exist guarantees future problems.


No doubt you-tube has clips about soldering. Electrical solder is cheap.
soldering irons are available on craigslist, second hand stores and wally world.


Just another life skill to learn. One hour of practice is about all you need.

maxima297

As you can see, there seems to be a bit of unprotected wiring. Maybe it's just me. I don't know how they're supposed to look down here.

Sorry for the delay, this is the first moment I've been able to spare to even look under my car.

So anyways, you can see it's rather disgusting down there. What do I use to clean that off with and how do I know if there's a bad wire?

Starting the car is becoming more difficult. She cranks and sounds like she's about to turn over but something is stopping it. Sometimes feeding gas to it helps.

JvG

I clean stuff like that with plain old kerosene. Followed by brake cleaner. Brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner is pretty much the same thing. I pull the connector from the sensor, then clean the sensor with fine sandpaper. 600 grit.


Do you own a volt-ohm meter?


I test suspicious wires like that by removing just enough insulation from a wire some distance from the connector. set the VOM to ohms. this measures resistance. You want 0 ohms resistance.


Napa will carry cans of brush-on electrical insulation. It comes in a small can. Use it to seal off moisture from areas with bad insulation. Also used for repairing the wire after the probing I just mentioned.


You do have a mess there. It is quite possible that the repair method I suggested will solve your problem.

maxima297

I hope so.

I'll be back at Napa in 2 hours. Carl may have a voltmeter, I don't. But I can get the rest while I'm there. I'm just worried I'll be stuck with a dead car again, and right now it's our only vehicle.