It's finally my time to replace the water pump. I'm at the point of taking off the motor mount, and I'm not sure what to unscrew next. There are a number of posts on the subject floating around here, but none are completely clear.

I haven't taken off the two bolts/nut circled here, mainly because it got dark: http://s397.photobucket.com/user/Dbe...xcoiy.jpg.html

But it looks to me like I'm going to have to take out the two 17mm bolts underneath, one of which is in the area of the circle here (you can't really see it in the picture): http://s397.photobucket.com/user/Dbe...t5csc.jpg.html

Do I need to take off the two in the first picture? And do those two 17s have to come out? If so, how high can I lift the engine to get to them? And is there enough room to get a socket and breaker bar in there?

 

Here's a link to the instructions from the How To pages. I don't see the motor mount coming off in the instructions.

http://vqpower.com/v3/content/water-pump-replacement


Here's a picture of the timing cover so you can see the location of the motor mount next to the water pump cover.



Here's a picture of the tensioner and water pump looking behind the timing cover. Disregard the arrows.

 

I left the mount in place. Just work around it.


Not a fun project no matter what you do. A left handed friend would be nice.
Many of the bolts were done with my left hand.

 

I understand it can be done with the mount in place, but I learned long ago the value of creating space. It seems like taking the mount off will be less of a PITA than leaving it there. Besides, I've already got most of it done...

 

I had problems getting to the bolts in the mount, so I left the mount in place. It is kind of in the way for the tentioner, not a problem getting to the water pump.

I agree with th concept of removing parts that are in the way. If possible.....

 

I've been procrastinating on changing out the mount on the trans cover as well because I'm a little unsure about it.

I was told to place a hydraulic jack under the lower oil pan then unbolt the mount so you can jack up the engine at an angle for better access to lower bolts to remove the mount.

Sounds good and all, but where I'm stuck is that the axle angle seems like it would be pretty extreme~because my car is already on jack stands~and my guess is that the mounts on the crossmember would limit the amount of angle.
So guessing all mounts except the trans mount should be disconnected, but then you should probably use one of those fender braced engine supports to not leave just the jack supporting most of the engine weight.

What I was told plays out in my mind better if I either remove the axle<~don't want to do that~or I have the front end on the ground and then jack it up to avoid crazy axle angle/limits.

Obviously I could use some more insight as well.

 

No need to remove engine mount, just need to work around, be patient but there is enough space to remove and install water pump.

 

Wish someone would give instructions.

Even on pmohr's<~sp?~YouTube video of wp removal he says it makes the water pump job much less of a headache.

He also said he would make a video specifically to show how to take off that mount, but that never happened.

 

Korn did it on his 5th gen with some updated and highly detailed instructions which include removing the motor mount.......

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-all-de-k.html

 

The difficult part is not taking out and re-install water pump, it is to push chain tensioner piston back and hold it back with a pin, I cannot do it without loosen chain tensioner mounting bolts, even with bolts loosed, it is still difficult so I eventually took tenioner out, re-install is a PITA!

 

There are good instructions on you tube. One is three parts, the other four parts.

The tensioner needs to be removed entirely so that the chain can move. I stretched the spring in the tensioner slightly before I reinstalled the tensioner.

This is not a fun repair. Take your time, take breaks. No alcohol.
Too easy to make mistakes. A left handed friend who can wrench would be good to have around.

 

The 3rd step on the 4th post didn't explain anything, but removing the one center bolt off the mount.
Any of those show how to remove the whole mount?

 

I managed to remove the upper part of the mount, that gave me enough room to do the work. The bolts in the lower mount were hard to get to.

The tensioner installation is tricky, there is not much room.

I found this project to be more time consuming and tedious than I imagined. I can see why people pay a mechanic to do this. If you have the funds, do so.

This is not something you want to do in the evening if you want to drive to work the next day. Start early on Saturday, Finish Sunday evening. You will need to take lots of breaks, mostly to preserve your sanity.

The job it's self is not horrible, it's just dang awkward and frustrating.

 

I've been told it helps if you are double jointed and left handed. Ha!

However, I know a mechanic that says he made a special tool for removing/installing VQ30 tensioners. I think he can make the swap in less than 2 hours. I paid him roughly $300 to swap in a new tensioner on the I30 a few years ago.

That was one job that I just didn't want to tackle on a good running engine.

 

The tensioner was not too bad, but the pump was a bear.

I could do the job again in less time now. So sure, a left handed mechanic could make good money doing this chore.

Fortunately for those of us who use quality water pumps, this is the only time it will ever be done.