Help identifying ignition coils 1999 se maxima
#1
Help identifying ignition coils 1999 se maxima
I bought a maxima off a guy he said he replaced 4 of the coils but didnt state if they were oem or after market ones.
Basically my Maxima came up as a miss fire and a p1320 when I did emissions About 90% sure I found the coil that was bad through process of elimination I bought a Oem coil to replace that one.
My problem is I need to find which of the other coils are oem ones in case I have a future problem with the p1320 code with the after market ones that were put in. So if any one has any suggestions on how to identify if there Hanshins/Mitsubishi coils which were the oem ones pretty sure hanshins are the oems on a 1999 maxima but either way they both will work with out triggering the computer for a p1320.
If I left out any information that might be needed just ask kinda new to this stuff.
Basically my Maxima came up as a miss fire and a p1320 when I did emissions About 90% sure I found the coil that was bad through process of elimination I bought a Oem coil to replace that one.
My problem is I need to find which of the other coils are oem ones in case I have a future problem with the p1320 code with the after market ones that were put in. So if any one has any suggestions on how to identify if there Hanshins/Mitsubishi coils which were the oem ones pretty sure hanshins are the oems on a 1999 maxima but either way they both will work with out triggering the computer for a p1320.
If I left out any information that might be needed just ask kinda new to this stuff.
Last edited by gpgoodpeeps; 03-10-2016 at 10:29 PM.
#2
It's really hard to find any Mitsubishi ignition coils as those are the best ones that had no issues where the hanshins are the ones that are defective and tend to die out faster. The hanshins were the coils that failed on the 99 maxima. Only use oem and nothing but oem otherwise any aftermarket coil will not work at all. The ones that are hanshins say mcp-1300 or mcp-1350 and also say HANSHIN on the coils itself. The Mitsubishi ones are sealed better than the HANSHIN which is why they don't fail as much and last longer.
#3
I would not worry as its A five min fix if one does go....plus they usually will go slowly and get worse so that will buy you more time and let you know its time......maybe few days max....when that cel starts flashing constantly ur time is up lol. Keep one front and one rear if you really wanna be safe I guess.
#5
Well when I go to buy some more from a the parts recylcler ill look into getting some Mitsubishi ones just trying to get rid of the miss and get it through smog for now after that Ill probably out right buy brand new. My local nissan dealer wanted 900 for a pack of 6 not sure if that included installation or not but seemed pretty high if you ask me even if it was for installation I can install all 6 of them in probably 45 minutes.
#8
I see new OEM coils run $91.12 each. You can get either Hanshin or Mitsubishi for that price.
http://www.orderinfinitiparts.com/pa...m?siteid=21500
I try to keep a couple of spare coils that I picked up at a junk yard for when a coil goes bad. If you can pick up a couple of OEMs from a salvage yard, that is a way to save a bunch of money.
If I had to replace coils tomorrow, I would get new Hitachi coils from Rock Auto for under $50.
http://www.orderinfinitiparts.com/pa...m?siteid=21500
I try to keep a couple of spare coils that I picked up at a junk yard for when a coil goes bad. If you can pick up a couple of OEMs from a salvage yard, that is a way to save a bunch of money.
If I had to replace coils tomorrow, I would get new Hitachi coils from Rock Auto for under $50.
#12
had flawless operation using these.
I did all 6 in 2014,, only had one with an issue. so put the other 5 i took out on the shelf in case one goes **** up in the future.
3 of each for 95-99
I did all 6 in 2014,, only had one with an issue. so put the other 5 i took out on the shelf in case one goes **** up in the future.
3 of each for 95-99
#13
I'm still trying to suss this out:
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-machine.html
#14
I wanted OEM ones cause I know a lot of after market ones resistances are off compared to the factory specs. When I bought my car it had 3 after market coils and had 3 oem, after I replaced one of my fire wall side OEM coils with another OEM coil and reset my ECU the light did not come back on after I drove it through a drive cycle and all systems passed emissions. The check engine light was a auto fail the first time but the paper said missfire which I already knew. So long story short you can get good aftermarket parts that wont trigger your ECU to turn on the CEL. Ill have to take a look at my front coils maybe get a brand for you guys.
I personally bought my replacement coil from a junkyard it cost me 25 bucks I know a lot of people will say you dont know how many miles are on the coil blah blah blah at the end of the day a part will fail at some point it could last 50k miles like some people report b4 a coil fail I have 2 oem coils with 154k miles on them running strong if a parts gonna go it will go. My best advice is if you have the money to buy a brand new OEM coil do it if not there are plenty of junkyard web sites I have seen OEM as low as 14 a coil not a bad price specially if your short on cash.
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts
I personally bought my replacement coil from a junkyard it cost me 25 bucks I know a lot of people will say you dont know how many miles are on the coil blah blah blah at the end of the day a part will fail at some point it could last 50k miles like some people report b4 a coil fail I have 2 oem coils with 154k miles on them running strong if a parts gonna go it will go. My best advice is if you have the money to buy a brand new OEM coil do it if not there are plenty of junkyard web sites I have seen OEM as low as 14 a coil not a bad price specially if your short on cash.
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts
Last edited by gpgoodpeeps; 03-22-2016 at 11:16 AM.
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