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Please help!!!!

Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:45 PM
  #1  
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Please help!!!!

Hey all . So Ive got an issue I cannot figure out at all. Three days ago I left my headlights on while at work . When I came out to start the car , the battery was completely dead . I then attempted to jumpstart my car and the cables caused a spark and a tiny fire on positive post . ( nothing was backwards ; positive / positive negative/negative ) I immediately pulled the cables off and noticed the exterior lights were all illuminated ; turn signal bulbs , taillights and headlights . After about a minute every light dimmed out. After thirty minutes a second vehicle and a different set of cables were used to try to jumpstart again . The car this time started almost immediately but died after a short period of time . I also noticed that the radio, windshield wipers , power seats , power windows , a/c , heater , Cluster back lights , and rear running lights were all not functioning . left the car overnight and purchased a new battery in the morning . The battery was put in and the car again fired right up . I also purchased a new alternator and had it installed . I was figuring that the alternator was not charging due to the battery going dead after a short period of time and power not being distributed to electronics . I again left the car overnight . The following day I drove the car to a local shop and on the way the car , towards the end of a 7 mile journey , acted as if it was going to die again . I barely made it to the shop . I also noticed a burnt rubber smell or something very close .The owner tested battery and I was told I had a faulty battery cell and it could be the source of my problems . The battery was again replaced with a new battery and the battery tested fine . Again, all electronics listed are failing . I took the car directly to Carquest to test the new alternator and was told it was putting out zero voltage and was bad . I then had the original alternator tested , which tested good . Again , I went back to the shop and had them change my alternator back to original . AGAIN , the electronics failed !!! I left the shop agitated and drove the car home (7 miles .) On the way here my battery light was illuminated as well as my Brake light but everything ran strong with no misses or problems . I then checked the Accessory relay under the dash and switched it with my Horn 3 under hood . Nothing happened with electronics once again . Ive ordered a new 140aFL alternator fuse under hood which will be here Thursday. I really don't know what else to do and at 65 and hour for labor ive ran out of money . Hopefully this fusible link will be the trick. Could this also be the ignition switch ? Please if anyone has had these same issues assist. Ive ran out of answers .
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:54 PM
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Your situation sucks, typically if your brake and battery light come on its your alternator. Did you use aftermarket alternator? If so you could have gotten a dud.
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 10:03 PM
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[QUOTE=lux97Max;9102634]Your situation sucks, typically if your brake and battery light come on its your alternator. Did you use aftermarket alternator? Yes , I also had it checked twice , once by the mechanic and once by Carquest and both told me it was good .
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 10:07 PM
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[QUOTE=rossp06;9102639]
Originally Posted by lux97Max
Your situation sucks, typically if your brake and battery light come on its your alternator. Did you use aftermarket alternator? Yes , I also had it checked twice , once by the mechanic and once by Carquest and both told me it was good .
. Definently sucks. Especially when things are testing out as good and then these issues come again- after all these labor cost . It's testing 12.2 output at the alternator at idle , which I understand as good .
Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:35 AM
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[QUOTE=rossp06;9102641]
Originally Posted by rossp06
. Definently sucks. Especially when things are testing out as good and then these issues come again- after all these labor cost . It's testing 12.2 output at the alternator at idle , which I understand as good .
12.2V is NOT GOOD at all.

ALT should be at 14V or so when idling. Replace it.
Old Apr 6, 2016 | 05:07 AM
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I wonder if you have two problems. Have you walked in the back to see if your brake lights are on all the time? Then couple that with a bad ignition switch and that MIGHT describe your problem, but further examination might be required. If the brake lights are always on that's a simple fix with a dime glued to the brake pedal. Ignition switch is a simple fix. Your Alt. needs to be putting out 13.7 and above. I have a new Nissan Alt (Got free from Nissan, installed, from an old TSB) and it puts out 14.4.
Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:14 PM
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 10:48 AM
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Wizard, he used TWO words, and punctuation!!!!

Still though.

People, we do not have to help.

We would like to have a brief discription of the issue.

Some of us know certain things we have learned about and experienced our selves. We can share that information.

Other issues which we have not encountered yet, not so much.

While still other things, such as the inner workings of our automatic transmissions, would be the land of mystery for myself.
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