idler pulley woes
#1
idler pulley woes
So I managed to destroy the tensioner as a last step on my alternator replacement. I have a spare and all the pulley parts AND the correct order they are installed in HOWEVER I have a technique question:
How does one actually load the idler pulley washers, bushings, pulley, covers etc onto the threaded pulley shaft whilst simultaneously keeping the (sliding, "keyed") pulley shaft bolt fully extended through the bracket? As you know if the pulley shaft bolt isn't oriented properly it won't slide correctly, and the pulley alignment will be off.
I can't seem to wedge the pulley past the frame rail and place it onto the shaft without cocking the shaft (TWSS!) such that the shaft is no longer fully extending through the bracket. Once that happens and the pulley is on the shaft there isn't enough threaded shaft snout poking past the pulley face to install the outer cover and nut.
Should the shaft be "high", "medium", or "low" on the bracket in order to replace the pulley hardware?
Is it possible to install the fully-loaded bracket and pulley assembly as one giant piece?
How does one actually load the idler pulley washers, bushings, pulley, covers etc onto the threaded pulley shaft whilst simultaneously keeping the (sliding, "keyed") pulley shaft bolt fully extended through the bracket? As you know if the pulley shaft bolt isn't oriented properly it won't slide correctly, and the pulley alignment will be off.
I can't seem to wedge the pulley past the frame rail and place it onto the shaft without cocking the shaft (TWSS!) such that the shaft is no longer fully extending through the bracket. Once that happens and the pulley is on the shaft there isn't enough threaded shaft snout poking past the pulley face to install the outer cover and nut.
Should the shaft be "high", "medium", or "low" on the bracket in order to replace the pulley hardware?
Is it possible to install the fully-loaded bracket and pulley assembly as one giant piece?
#2
I've slid the idle pulley pivot bolt via the bracket with ease to get it reassembled with the washers, nuts, spacer and tensioner rod. Having small hands has it's advantages.
Here's a diagram of the setup
Here's a diagram of the setup
#4
It is definitely a lot easier to just take the whole bracket off.
I read here about people putting their exploded units back together in a parking lot without removing the bracket...I guess if the tension rod was still loaded right this might work. I couldn't do it.
Fixed now.
I read here about people putting their exploded units back together in a parking lot without removing the bracket...I guess if the tension rod was still loaded right this might work. I couldn't do it.
Fixed now.
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Ben2003GLE
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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04-07-2016 03:10 AM