Replaced alternator but now certain electronics won't work
#1
Replaced alternator but now certain electronics won't work
I have a friend's car I changed the alternator on, install went smooth I have done this at least 100 times, upon installation the brake and battery light went off from the dash but now here's the prob there's no power to the wipers,windows, Door locks or the blower Motor, and there no parking lamps, I checked every fuse and I changed out a few relays but still nothing
The car runs and drives but these electrical components have no power going to them, any ideas war this might be?
The car runs and drives but these electrical components have no power going to them, any ideas war this might be?
#2
First step would be to check the under-hood fuses (passenger side e-compartment fuse box) AND the under-hood relays (drivers side relay box).
Second, check all under-dash fuses.
Report back.
Second, check all under-dash fuses.
Report back.
#3
I did check them all including the ones in the engine bay by the battery the ones by the pass side relay box and the ones under the dash on the drivers side, all of them are good and I double checked this
#4
Ok so now I have also changed the circuit breakers on the inside of the car and still no results I have also changed the bcm and still no results
Any ideas wat else it can be?
Any ideas wat else it can be?
#7
This is too weird. I suppose this is a dumb question, but are you certain these things worked before you changed the alternator?
That 65 amp fusible link feeds other fuses and those secondary fuses feed the cigarette lighter, power mirrors, wipers, theft system, keyfob remote and the heater blower motor. Not fed by that fusible link are the wipers, the windows, door locks, tail lights, so it was somewhat of a shot in the dark.
So scratching my hemorrhoids (or was it my head?) some more, I looked at the next higher up fusible link that feeds that 65 amp one. This is the main fusible link on the positive battery terminal, 120 or 140 amps (cali cars/fed cars). Of course it feeds other fuses as well and these fuses do cover the windows, the tail lights, the battery light in the instrument cluster. It also covers more things than you mentioned, so I don't know if they work or not. These things are radiator fans, a/c control panel, radio memory, fog lights, horn, cruise control, and a few more things that most cars aren't equipped with.
So check that main fusible link. Maybe you'll get lucky.
That 65 amp fusible link feeds other fuses and those secondary fuses feed the cigarette lighter, power mirrors, wipers, theft system, keyfob remote and the heater blower motor. Not fed by that fusible link are the wipers, the windows, door locks, tail lights, so it was somewhat of a shot in the dark.
So scratching my hemorrhoids (or was it my head?) some more, I looked at the next higher up fusible link that feeds that 65 amp one. This is the main fusible link on the positive battery terminal, 120 or 140 amps (cali cars/fed cars). Of course it feeds other fuses as well and these fuses do cover the windows, the tail lights, the battery light in the instrument cluster. It also covers more things than you mentioned, so I don't know if they work or not. These things are radiator fans, a/c control panel, radio memory, fog lights, horn, cruise control, and a few more things that most cars aren't equipped with.
So check that main fusible link. Maybe you'll get lucky.
#8
Hey thanks for ur response
These r the things which don't work
Door locks windows, climate control, wipers parking lamps horn cruise control rad fans radio Battery light in the Cluster
So it actually might be this,
BTW the car runs and drives though incase that matters,
These r the things which don't work
Door locks windows, climate control, wipers parking lamps horn cruise control rad fans radio Battery light in the Cluster
So it actually might be this,
BTW the car runs and drives though incase that matters,
Last edited by maxfever1987; 08-01-2016 at 12:22 PM.
#11
#12
I did the same thing 2 years ago. Blew that 140A fuse when replacing the alternator. I learned from the experience that both cables need to be removed off the battery terminals when relacing the alternator. Not just the NEG cable!
#13
I didn't test this one with the tester since it was bolted in I got lazy honestly I didn't want to rip apart his fuse box for testing it, the others ones I did since they all just pull out,
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thekevinwright
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03-15-2016 08:51 PM