95 Maxima,what's the best plug?

 

The best plug is the NGK PFR5G-11. This is what Nissan recommended and no one can prove them wrong.

 

In general go with ngk. They are unquestionably the best for our car. But I can account for other plugs myself. I had autolites in my auto max and it drove just fine. In my current max I was suprised to find bosch plugs from the previous owner. Its common knowledge around here that bosch just don't go well with our vq30 engines so finding them in my car I was suprised as it ran fine.

The oem plugs used in our car are ngk platinums. I personally use ngk coppers because they are so damn cheap and run really well:

http://www.autozone.com/external-eng...?checkfit=true

 

Nothing wrong with the NGK 2647 (PFR5G-11), the OE double platinum. Denso also makes a good double platinum for these cars. Part number 3264)

There is also an iridium alternative NGK 7994 (IFR5E-11), that will last longer. And it's actually cheaper than the platinum, at least on Rock Auto.

My car has Denso 3395 iridium plugs, and they work fabulous. Just as good as NGK, but at a slightly better price. The previous owner used cheap G-Powers (NGK 7090)

Iridium isn't necessary on the 4th gen, since you can change them without removing the intake (since it has cutouts for easy access to the rear plugs/coils).

Now if you had a 5th gen, then you'd definitely want the longer life iridium offers, since on those cars you do need to remove the intake.

 

The best spark plug overall and is also recommended by nissan is the NGK PFR6G-11 which is a step colder from the pfr5g-11. I currently have it in my 97 maxima and it runs much better and smoother to me with this plug and overall its the better plug for frequent high revving and highway driving as stated by nissan.

 

And one more thing: DO NOT use anti-seize! Because NGK already gives ALL of their spark plugs a special plating from the factory.

This would also depend on driving conditions.

Nissan has the standard heat range PFR5G-11, and the colder 6G-11 you mention. But they also have a hotter option, the PFR4G-11

 

Just my opinion, but I'd stick with the stock heat range. The only reason why I run one step colder plugs and have them gapped down is because I'm boosted, otherwise I'd use the stock heat range.

 

I'd have to disagree with this. A little anti-sieze won't hurt, and could certainly help! Anti-sieze is a must in my opinion. Do you really want to deal with a stuck or broken spark plug? No thanks!!

 

Agreed ...

When fasteners (in this case a spark plug) are used in an unlike material (i.e. steel into aluminum or aluminum into steel) anti-sieze is always recommended.

 

NGK already applies one from the factory. OE NGK plugs are installed dry, without anti-seize, even the iridiums that are rated past 100k. They will not get stuck

Here is NGK's bulletin on anti-seize

 

Interesting information about anti-seize here. I definitely would use some had I not read the information here. I would think that using a bit, even if not necessary, couldn't hurt. However, I got to thinking that if the factory torque specs were designed for no anti-seize (although I looked at the FSM and it doesn't say anything about anti-seize), could torquing to spec with anti-seize actually overtighten the plug??

I have yet to change the plugs on my 95 as it only has 67k miles but figure I should do it soon. Question... do folks here use a torque wrench or just tighten till snug and then 1/4 more turn as recommended in the link from the Sticky? (Although I don't know when one determines it is "snug". Is that finger tight when one senses the metal gaskets seats and before turning with the wrench?)

I don't have a good torque wrench but maybe this is a good reason to get one. I'm nervous about working on an aluminum head. The torque spec is quite low for the plugs (14-22 lb) and I noted most torque wrenches have much higher lower ends and very high upper ends - but I did find this nice one on Snap-On. 5 - 75 ft lb range in 0.5 ft lb increments. Expensive, but comes with calibration. Good choice?

https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-I...e-P640959.aspx

Finally, with my experience on Toyota plugs, the parts counter always tells me they are "pre gapped" but I always find they are off a bit off and end up adjusting them. What are folks finding with the standard temp. PFR5G-11 plugs recommended here?

 

To agree with posts listed above. I've been using a small amount of copper anti-seize with NGK plugs in aluminum heads for years without issue. The plugs are always easy to remove.

Also, I've had great service from the NGK copper V-power plugs. Running older engines with way over 100,000 miles, I like to check on how plugs are burning and if there are any oil leak issues with the valve cover seals between 25,000 to 30,000 miles. After owning four 4th gens, I can practically change plugs on a VQ30 in my sleep.

Though I don't know if this is fact or fiction, I've read that copper plugs work well with older coils that may not be pushing the same level of spark as newer coils.

Personally, I would rather run low cost NGK copper v-powers and use the $$$ savings to replace old, tired, and lazy O2 sensors at approximately 100,000 mile intervals.

I just put in some new NTK O2 sensors on the latest 4th gen last weekend. Everybody who drives that car can tell the difference it made by "smoothing out" in town driving. It just runs better.

 

All of NGK's "laser" platinum and iridium plugs (including the PFR5G-11 on the Maxima) are pre-gapped. (the box will say "Laser Platinum" or "Laser Iridium", both of which consist solely of OE-spec plugs). Their cheaper plugs are not pre-gapped (G-Power, Iridium IX, and their copper plugs)

The factory spec is 14-22, so I used 18. That Snap-On is nice, but expensive. I use a Harbor Freight torque wrench that I got for $10. They frequently have a coupon for that price. The HF 3/8 goes from 5-80 lb-ft.

 

Used NGK and anti seize for 20 years and still purring