Shrout1

Driving the car tonight and had several points where I had a near complete loss of power - usually while accelerating - followed by what felt like engine braking (no ignition or no fuel...) followed by the car ROARING back to life and rocketing me to speed since I had the accelerator down. It does this on and off consistently during the entire period of acceleration - I struggled up a hill on the way home and had to turn on my hazards.

It has done this intermittently for the past 300 miles or so but tonight was a whole new level. Pulling into my neighborhood I thought for sure it was going to stall out. It didn't...

It hasn't thrown a single code... not one. Clearly something is wrong, but I'd expect a code with this kind of misbehavior.

I have a 99 and I know they don't like aftermarket coils. I have a number of aftermarket coils in the car, but I'd imagine that it would throw a code if that was the cause. In the past it's almost always thrown a code after 1-2 stumbles.

I'd *prefer* not to spend $600 finding out if it's the coils by replacing them... Could it be a fuel injector??? It can't be the throttle position sensor because it doesn't matter what I do to the gas pedal.

I put new NGK sparkplugs in it 20,000 miles ago. I run premium in it all the time. Cleaned the throttle body 20,000 miles ago, no clue about the MAF - not throwing any codes. Ran fuel injector cleaner through it 20,000 miles ago - maybe time for more...

Sad day sad day... After all my axle and steering replacements she leaves me in the cold :P My wife is gonna drive a stake into this thing.

vqmaxman

I hate to break it to you, but if it's the 99 SE-L they are sensitive to the coils that you are going to use in this car. I have heard that the Hanshins or Mitsubishi coils what this vehicles are gonna respond with better. I would go with Mitsubishi for the 99 SE-L. If you haven't check on the MAF now is the time to do it. I have a feeling it's the coils,because in your post that you have stated here you have aftermarkets they are sensitive in the 99 SE-L. If it's not the coil check the MAF this would also not let you run the car run right, yet alone past 2500 rpms. Do you have any vaccum leaks or gaskets broken. loose or broken hoses check them out. I wouldn't worry about the injectors unless they have been messed with or the car has 160k when the injectors are starting to stumble.

Shrout1

Thanks!!

The car has 180k on it... I know it could be the coils I'm just surprised there's no code... will look into vacuum leaks!

KP11520

I have a 99 SE-L as well and the coil packs that I got from Napa, were and still are seamless with the remaining original 4. (almost 5 years and over 40K miles.) 206K Total.

Now when you did the work on the front suspension, did you remove the driver's side steering knuckle and have to remove the ABS sensor plug inside the wheel well? If you did, maybe you didn't reassemble the air filter box and MAF sensor and different vacuum tubes properly.

Just lobbing this over the fence in case it could be a possibility.

Man, DON"T gamble a penny on the lottery.....We already know about your luck. LOL I can say that cause that's mine too!

Misery loves company.

And your wife is still thinking Gas can dumped inside and a match (with your sofa on top) LOL

JvG

Sounds like a fuel starvation issue. Occurs only if you step on the gas. Fuel supply cannot keep up with demand, then does ok once demand goes back down.

How long since you replaced your fuel filter?

Shrout1

Fuel filter no clue - that might be it and it's cheap... love it. Fuel pump is only about 6 months old so perhaps that's the case.

That is *definitely* the next thing to do.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

If the fuel filter is old, replace it.

Same with the TPS ... if it's old, replace it and adjust.

Do some resistance testing on the coil packs. If any are bad, replace them.

Clean the MAF and if it's old consider replacing it. The units from Autozone have proven to be somewhat reliable and they include a LLT.

How's the exhaust smell?

Shrout1

The cat failed at like 170k so I don't know what I'm smelling. No inspections in my county (yeeehaw) and I don't feel like spending $800 to fix it. Or learning how to weld. Though learning how to weld would be cool...

How can I resistance test the coils? I hear they have to be under load to give reliable readings.

Also I cleaned the MAF at 160k and I hesitate to replace it, but if it's the problem then no choice. Last resort is MAF and then coils.

Shrout1

Left the sensor in place as I heard that they are super expensive and easy to break. Didn't do anything to the MAF or the air box But thank you for the suggestion!

Also I am leaving town for business and won't be back for at least a week - maybe two depending... so the anticipation is killing me. Lots of time to order parts!

KP11520

On my car, when the two coils went, they finally threw a code. Not always the case from what I understand though.

I agree with the other guys about fuel starvation (or the likes). Fuel Filter is your cheapest first stop, and doesn't throw a code. Nor does the fuel pump. Not sure about the MAF for definitive codes. Or other sensors that affect the gas/air mixture or throttling the injectors.

Does the Service Manual have a troubleshooting flow chart? Throwing parts at it gets costly and painful.

KP11520

I also have a 1999 Durango and when the battery died, it had to relearn how to balance all the functions to run properly. Never heard that for the Maxima though. Maybe it needs a few more miles?

ENJOY the Rental on your business trip! LOL NICE! And somebody else's headache!

Shrout1

Haha - yeah I had a harrowing drive to the airport this morning through the nor'easter that's ripping across the east coast. The only car they had left was a mirage G4 :P Tin can almost got blown into oncoming traffic a couple times.

Also, the fuel filter symptoms look dead on the problem I'm having. It happens to be one of the things I didn't replace - that list grows shorter and shorter by the day... lol. Attached a screenshot of the symptoms from my phone According to the internet anyway.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

My question wasn't related to a catalytic converter.

It was related to a possible injector failure.

Does your exhaust smell like raw fuel?

Here are some basics on testing your coil packs

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Test-...5702258/g.html

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

One or two bad injectors wouldn't cause a complete loss of power, so I'd rule those out for the time being.

I'd say it's one of the following 3 things. FPR, MAF, or coilpacks. All 3 can be stubborn and not throw codes...

Shrout1

Fair enough! No it doesn't, more like rotten eggs - sulfuric.

And thanks for the link!

I'm sure I've read it on these boards somewhere, but why does the 99 hate aftermarket coils so much?

DBear

I had a similar problem though not quite as frequent. It turned out to be a bad MAF. I'm not sure, but I don't think it threw a code. I'd suggest cleaning it first, then maybe look for one at the junkyard. You can also try soldering the contacts inside.

JoshG

Mine didn't throw a code and it ended up being the coils, 9 months later.. no problems.

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

at least on my 95 having injectors fail never threw a code.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

+1 on the MAF

You can do the resistance test to check it if you have an ohm meter, otherwise I'd just buy a used one from a junkyard. I paid $20 for one and it fixed the engine cut-out problem I had. Resoldering your current one is an option but more effort (especially resealing).

Also another hint, when you cleaned the throttle body, double check that the wiring to the MAF is fully plugged in and not crimped by a tie down strap. There is a potential that the circuit between the ECU and MAF is compromised.

Good luck.

CS_AR

I try to keep a good working spare MAF around to rule out suspect issues. I've collected mine from junk yards. So I buy one, take it home, clean it and test it. If it works, I keep it. If it doesn't, I take it back. The spare MAF has saved me a lot of headaches over the years.

For the FPR, I always replace it like a maintenance item when I do a mid-life refresh on used 4th gens that I purchase with mileage over 150,000. So far, I've always used the Intermotor brand FPR without issue

Because I proactively replace the FPR, I haven't experienced the symptoms from a bad one. I guess I've been lucky in that regard.

For coils, I keep spare OEMs that I collect from a junk yard. I may have had one suspect coil failure over 7 years and four 4th gens. I can usually swap in a spare on a suspect cylinder and rule a bad coil without having to take out NDS1 to run a power balance test.

I may be wrong, but I think the reason I haven't had many coil issues is from my use of NGK Copper v-power spark plugs. Although I change plugs every 24,000 miles using lower cost copper plugs, the copper plug is a great electrical conductor that I have read gets along very well with older coils.

So I could have weak coils and not notice it because the copper NGK v-power plugs are throwing a great spark.

Shrout1

Ok so... Fuel filter wasn't the thing. Swapped it for a new ACDelco and no change at all.

If it was the MAF wouldn't I get a p0100? Would I have a rough idle? This only happens when I step on the gas. Car seems to idle fine.

I Cleaned the MAF about 20k miles ago when I was diagnosing a problem with the coils.

Either way, are aftermarket MAFs all junk? Autozone has a few options ranging from $150-$200. There is also a thread about trying to reflowing the solder and / or bypassing some part of the circuitboard on the MAF.

What is the best way to find a part in a junkyard? Nearest junkyard is about an hour away... I've only been once, about a decade ago, with a friend.

My dilemna drags on...

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Typically yes, they're crap.

However, I and several others are running this one and I, personally, have not had any problems yet.

Autozone Part Number: DL-6010 | $140.99

It's new (not manufactured) and includes a lifetime warranty.

I'm, personally, not keen on replacing an 18 year old part with another 18 year old part, so take your best shot at the salvage yard.

If you're Duralast part fails in 4 - 6 months, take it back for another new one.

When you're "U-Pull-It" piece fails in 4 - 6 months throw it in the trash and go hunting for and purchase another one.

Shrout1

Turbolink - thanks! How long have you been running yours?

Also should I see a code if my MAF is failing? Any good / cheap OBD2 scanners that can help me verify that the MAF is failing by looking at it while driving?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

I think I've had mine installed for just about a year now.

My MAF malfunction did not generate a DTC.

Shrout1

Good to know. Did you stall at idle? I think the MAF is the obvious next step. I will try to clean it first before replacing it.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

No stalling.

My primary symptom was a crazy irratic idle bouncing/hunting b/t ~200 and 1000 RPM first thing in the morning, about 5 to 7 minutes into my morning commute and lasted for about 20 sec. or until I blipped and throttle ...

Startup --> 1 to 2 min. warmup --> drive no greater 15-20 mph for ~ .5mi. --> stop light --> symptom.

Happened nearly every morning like clockwork.

No DTC.

I cleaned the OE MAF a couple of times which remedied the situation for a period, but the symptom always returned.

I initially thought it was the ECT but that sensor was quite new and the with change-out of the MAF, the symptom resolved.

Shrout1

Hmmm my symptoms aren't exactly the same, but they are similar...

Just cleaned the MAF, had to start the car three times before it continued to run. And that's after letting the MAF dry for 10 minutes after using CRC Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner.

Idle was odd - rough and bouncing between 1000 and 1200 RPMs. I took the car for a quick test drive around the neighborhood and the symptoms were exactly the same, a complete loss of power on some acceleration and then a sudden burst of power right when it seemed about to stall.

Generally blipping the throttle fixes it.

I hate to spend big bucks on something that I'm not 100% certain on, but I'm not sure what else to blame. Vacuum leak??

Shrout1

Ok so I found this thread: A-1 Cardone Remanufactured MAF's?

And it seems that the folks in it were quite happy with A1 Cardone remanufactured MAFs. (link to Cardone site included)

Also, RockAuto has it for like $70... Seems too good to be true, especially considering the fact that the folks in that thread were paying $200. No demand anymore?

EDIT: Not too good to be true! O'Reilly's is selling the same exact part number for $200!!! Lol I can't even believe this crap.

JvG

Rather than spend the big bucks, buy a couple of mafs from a junkyard. Like others have said.

You could always solder some contacts inside the maf. This is pretty much what a rebuilt maf would be. I saw instructions somewhere in this forum, or use your imagination.

Often the problem is due to a cracked or failed solder joint. Just like on our speedometer. Re heating and melting the solder can fix the problem.

Shrout1

Well $70 isn't big bucks in my book for something that usually costs $600. The reviews on the Cardone are the most positive I've seen for an aftermarket, so I'm going to give it a try. Hopefully the new MAF will fix the issue... I'm considering not sending back the core and instead trying to see if I can fix the oem MAF... I'm not handy with a soldering iron so I'd need some help from a friend. We'll see!

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

You're going on two weeks with this problem, and multiple org members have recommended a MAF replacement. That advice is very sound based on the experience of those submitting. If you want to keep looking at other solutions, that's your prerogative, but you aren't likely to get too much more input until you actually do what others have recommended. If you can't get to a junkyard for a cheap MAF, how about E-bay or Craigslist? I think OEM, even 18 years old, is still the best way to go. Junkyard is the cheapest solution (excluding travel and time).

Frankly, I'm looking forward to you saying your problem has been resolved by ...doing xyz.

Good luck.

Shrout1

Lol thanks! I was away on business until last Saturday The first chance I had to actually work on the car was Sunday night. I like to start with the cheap stuff and go to the more expensive. Fuel filter, etc.

I ordered another MAF last night per my last post Just waiting for it to show up. Thanks for the advice!

Shrout1

Ok put in the new MAF and this happened:


No start... I reinstalled the original MAF and still no start:


So now she's just dead...

And there's also my blow-by hose that is totally cracked and might be causing a vacuum leak...



Open to any suggestions.

KP11520

If you do decide to burn it with the sofa tied on top, I want to swap some parts from mine with yours and I'll even pay for the gasoline! .

Somebody will know where to start. Hang in there. I hope you have time! Or a cheap rental!

vqmaxman

Did you forget to plug the harness back into the Maf. The coils are they all plugged in. The fuel filter you replaced is the fuel hose freely flowing with fuel. What type tranny your car is auto,manual. If auto is the pnp switch locking in so you can start the car in park. Post us a clip on the engine bay area and what type of maf your using.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

Double check you have power to the MAF.

Shrout1

Harness: Grey and green clip locked back into place on the MAF - both on the new and the OEM after reinstall.

Coils: No change since they've been reinstalled / OEM coils. All were working
previously and I haven't touched them.

Fuel: Pump whine can be heard (not in the video) when key is turned to accessory and I replaced the fuel filter in the start of this thread - new hose and all. Fuel pump has about 5k miles on it - it died last October.

MAF - Tried now with both original OEM (may be failing) and A1 Cardone Remanufactured.

Transmission: 5 speed manual. Clutch and brake must be engaged for starter to fire. Had clutch and brake depressed while making video.

Here is an OLD video of the car two days ago, idling / being revved (audio ain't great):


After switching the MAF and putting the OEM MAF back in the car no longer starts.

Shrout1

Lol! Yeah I think I'm committed to this car :P If my wife gets an account on the forum though you might have a car burning party on your hands

I bought this car specifically for the purpose of learning a bit about automotive mechanics, so it's a third car for us. Also wanted to learn how to drive stick. We have a 2012 Mustang and 2004 Pontiac Vibe. Those keep trooping on so this guy has been sitting, unused, since the beginning of January.

The list of things I have replaced on this car grows by the day... Ahhhhh Nissan...

KP11520

I remember something about these newer 99's having an issue if you try to start it and it won't start more than 5 times or so, with the door open, the ignition locking out.

Might have been CS_AR who went through it. Hopefully not the case. I think it was a hassle to get fixed.

If so, I'm going to need your wife's email address to get this party started! LOL

Good luck!

vqmaxman

Put the new maf in and see what happens from there. I noticed you got 180k on the clock so the fuel injectors go bad around 160k depends in the car and owner. Infact find the problem and keep posting.