When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I replaced TPS and adjusted with feeler gauges, but still doesn't drive 100% correct
I finally replaced the TPS on my 96 I30 (automatic transmission, California emissions)
I used a Delphi SS10495, a reboxed OEM TPS, along with those Hillman screws from the Home Depot.
TSB NTB99-053b states that the CTPS should have continuity with a .012-in feeler gauge, and no continuity with a .016-in feeler gauge, when engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I was able to get these results.
However, it still doesn't quite drive 100% correct. Sometimes, the rpm drops to idle speed, about 700 rpm, when going 20-25 mph, and acts a little funny in similar ways.
And sometimes, the O/D OFF light will blink at startup.
I also tried the reset procedure on page EC-96 of the 1996 I30 service manual from the Nicoclub page. That procedure is to warm up the engine, turn the car off, wait at least 5 seconds, disconnect the TPS connector (the brown one), wait at least 5 seconds, start the engine (with the TPS still disconnected), wait at least 5 seconds in N (neutral), then reconnect the TPS while it's still running.
After doing this, idle was about 500 rpm with the TPS connector off, but went to 700 rpm after I reconnected it, which is correct.
The TPS itself is staying in place just fine. I still get continuity at .012, and none at .016 at operating temp.
What else can I do? Should I just buy a TPS from the 97+ cars? (TSB NTB98-024a says to do this) Nissan part number mentioned in the TSB is 22620-3M200, but has since been superseded by 22620-4M510
The TPS is a variable resistor (potentiometer). It could possibly have a bad spot that equates to the 20 - 25 mph position. Use your ohmmeter and monitor the TPS as you SLOWLY move the throttle.
Another possibility is that your throttle body may need cleaning. Take off the MAF and look.
It seems now my EGR is clogged (P0400 code). I bought a brand new guide tube because cleaning it seems too time-consuming and difficult to clean, and the new tube was only $33
The EGR clogging may be contributing to the TPS issues, especially in regards to the idle, and the code just started triggering now even though it may have started long before.
In addition, it's jerking like it did with the old TPS. However, I don't think this can be attributed to the EGR. The jerking is worst when cold, and rarely happens when warm (ambient temp, not engine temp)
If I replace the TPS again, I'm going to use the later version for the 97+ cars. At least it won't be so difficult this time since I have the new screws.
However, it still doesn't quite drive 100% correct. Sometimes, the rpm drops to idle speed, about 700 rpm, when going 20-25 mph, and acts a little funny in similar ways.
And sometimes, the O/D OFF light will blink at startup.
What led you to believe the TPS is the problem? Is the check engine light on? A bad TPS will not cause the car to drop down to 700 RPM while at speed. It sounds like there is something going on with your transmission.
I bought the newer updated TPS. I will install it over the weekend. Beck/Arnley 158-0709. $55 from Rock Auto. Made in Japan and is the reboxed OEM TPS for the 97+ 4th gen.
Beck/Arnley included a set of screws for the TPS, but I'm not going to use them, as I'm sticking with the hex-head Hillman screws I already put on. The Hillmans are slightly longer than the OEM screws.
Originally Posted by schmellyfart
What led you to believe the TPS is the problem? Is the check engine light on? A bad TPS will not cause the car to drop down to 700 RPM while at speed. It sounds like there is something going on with your transmission.
codes P0120, P0731/P0732/P0733, P1705, common codes to happen when the TPS is no good, and TPS failure is very common on these cars, and my car stalled all the time before I replaced it, and now it never stalls with the new TPS, and has not stalled once since replacing the TPS.
The CEL does come on occasionally, but not nearly as often as it used to come on. But it does still throw the codes, but no CEL most of the time.
The new TPS has not stalled, and the rpm drop is less common, but does still occur with the new TPS, and I have gotten codes P0120 and P073x (but no P1705 since installing the new TPS)
The transmissions on these cars are relatively bulletproof, plus it's had regular fluid changes, and the ATF is still nice and red like it should be.
maximaxi, good luck with this and perfect timing. I got a P1705 code today as well!
As long as OEM is available, unless everybody tells me it's a waste, I'm going to order a Nissan replacement! And if it is a waste, which is the best alternative part. Then I'll research the swap.
Got it with a P0160 code as well. That'll be it's own thread.
How did you find out about it being 100%? I want to get one for a 96 Maxima. Rockauto has a different Beck/Arnley one for the 96 year. Yours (I see) is for a 97.
How did you find out about it being 100%? I want to get one for a 96 Maxima. Rockauto has a different Beck/Arnley one for the 96 year. Yours (I see) is for a 97.
So tell me what's this continuity at 0.012 and feeler gauge thing about?
I'm dumb..... founded!
I thought it was swap out the switch by removing the two screws and two connector plugs, reverse paying attention to the lever engaging in the slot and leave snug but loose enough to adjust to 700 RPMs warmed up.(auto Cali spec) Then tighten the screws.
So tell me what's this continuity at 0.012 and feeler gauge thing about?
I'm dumb..... founded!
I thought it was swap out the switch by removing the two screws and two connector plugs, reverse paying attention to the lever engaging in the slot and leave snug but loose enough to adjust to 700 RPMs warmed up.(auto Cali spec) Then tighten the screws.
Thanks again!
The feeler gauge procedure is described in TSB NTB99-053b
Originally Posted by slowmanvns
How did you find out about it being 100%? I want to get one for a 96 Maxima. Rockauto has a different Beck/Arnley one for the 96 year. Yours (I see) is for a 97.
I know it's 100% because it has the exact same markings as an OEM TPS, made in Japan by Unisia Jecs.
Unisia Jecs was a joint venture between Nissan and Bosch. Nissan wanted access to Bosch's engine management expertise, and Bosch wanted access to the Japanese market. Jecs was later bought out by Hitachi, who still owns them to this day.
My car is also a 96, and the original replacement TPS I bought was the original 95-96 version, but it is still no good. Nissan released a TSB for a new "countermeasure" TPS, and the new part number is the same part number that Nissan specifies for the 97+ cars. For that reason, you should still use the 97+ TPS anyway, even though yours is a 96.
Thank you for the heads up on that TSB. I have a 1999 and I know some things changed as they were ramping up for the 5th Gens.
It seems 99's aren't included.
Strange, because it's the same part number and throttle body.
Even though your 99 may not be listed in the TSB, the feeler gauge method should still work. Like you said, it's the same part number, same throttle body, same TPS, etc.
I was also having a stall issue and replacing the TPS fixed the problem. The shop where my car is diagnosed the problem. Not sure what TPS they used since im on a 3.5 swap on my 97 but ill find out.
Thanks, Maxi. I will get the one for the 97 year even tho I have a 96. A mechanic also found a bad ground wire that may have been related to my stalling issues.
Original TPS needs to come out so the new one can go in.....
What screws are holding it in? #2 JIS?
Looks like it's time to bite the bullet and get a set, including a stubby!
Thanks!
Yeah I think they're some JIS, but they'll be stripped anyway, so you'll have to follow this removal process:
1) dremel the first screw head off
2) put a flathead screwdriver between the old TPS and the throttle body
3) hit the screwdriver with a hammer, then pull the handle of the screwdriver towards the throttle body
4) hit the back of the TPS (side facing the throttle body) with a hammer until it starts breaking off
5) unscrew what's left of the old TPS from the throttle body. You do this by rotating the remnants of the TPS, what's still attached to the throttle body (mostly the part immediately surrounding the screw that's still on the throttle body)
NOTE: Step 5 may or may not be necessary, depending on your results from step 4
When installing the new throttle body, DO NOT use the screws that came with it! Because those are just the same OEM screws that will strip again! Instead, use the Hillman hex-head screws; they use a 5mm allen key
Yeah I think they're some JIS, but they'll be stripped anyway, so you'll have to follow this removal process:
1) dremel the first screw head off
2) put a flathead screwdriver between the old TPS and the throttle body
3) hit the screwdriver with a hammer, then pull the handle of the screwdriver towards the throttle body
4) hit the back of the TPS (side facing the throttle body) with a hammer until it starts breaking off
5) unscrew what's left of the old TPS from the throttle body. You do this by rotating the remnants of the TPS, what's still attached to the throttle body (mostly the part immediately surrounding the screw that's still on the throttle body)
NOTE: Step 5 may or may not be necessary, depending on your results from step 4
When installing the new throttle body, DO NOT use the screws that came with it! Because those are just the same OEM screws that will strip again! Instead, use the Hillman hex-head screws; they use a 5mm allen key
OUCH!
Wow, thank you for this! Who would've ever thought replacing a TPS would be right on Par with doing a Hip Replacement! LOL
A little anti-seize compound as well! Like everything I do on this car!
I finally installed the new TPS, and it drives great, except the OD OFF light blinks 16 times when I first start the car.
However, I did have to set the TPS so it's turned about 70-80% to the right. The multimeter shows continuity with the .012 feeler gauge, and no continuity with the .016 feeler.
I thought it was supposed to be closer to the middle in terms of adjustment, and maybe it is, given the OD light blinking on, but the car otherwise drives ok.
The only concern I have is for inspection, as I don;t want any codes to pop up.
Also, I may have an EGR clog. Could this affect my TPS reading and adjustment?
I bought the newer updated TPS. I will install it over the weekend. Beck/Arnley 158-0709. $55 from Rock Auto. Made in Japan and is the reboxed OEM TPS for the 97+ 4th gen.
Beck/Arnley included a set of screws for the TPS, but I'm not going to use them, as I'm sticking with the hex-head Hillman screws I already put on. The Hillmans are slightly longer than the OEM screws.
codes P0120, P0731/P0732/P0733, P1705, common codes to happen when the TPS is no good, and TPS failure is very common on these cars, and my car stalled all the time before I replaced it, and now it never stalls with the new TPS, and has not stalled once since replacing the TPS.
The CEL does come on occasionally, but not nearly as often as it used to come on. But it does still throw the codes, but no CEL most of the time.
The new TPS has not stalled, and the rpm drop is less common, but does still occur with the new TPS, and I have gotten codes P0120 and P073x (but no P1705 since installing the new TPS)
The transmissions on these cars are relatively bulletproof, plus it's had regular fluid changes, and the ATF is still nice and red like it should be.
That's funny I just adjusted mine and installed SS Allen head bolts...That phillips screw head is for the birds...Also the thread originator mentioned using a felling gauge ???? WTF are you doing? Get your VOM and follow the MM instructions...It's easy and straight forward....You'll enjoy that improved throttle response and lightning quick down shifts once you get it sent up right....Especially the A/T guys.... The A/T and TPS are tied together (Load Meter)....
Cmax, you are bringing back memories of adjustng the TPS on a 1973 fuel injected Volvo I had maybe 20 years ago. Yes, it was done with a vom. I adjusted till the needle swung from infinity to 0 ohms. Then I turned the TPS a tiny bit so that it was at infinity ar idle, but the tinest movement of the throttle would swing the needle to 0 ohms.
This setting told the ecu when the engine was at idle, and also the instant I pressed on the gas pedal.
if the adjustment is off, the throttle will open, allowing more air into the intake manifold. But the computer will not know that anything happened until it gets a signal from the mis adjusted tps.
Well there are two items assembled in one body a TPS and a Throttle Switch...If viewed looking at the screw heads the positions are as follows: TPS (Right) and the Throttle Switch (Left)... pins 1, 2, 3 (TPS) and pins 4, 5, 6 (Throttle Switch). TPS check- measuring between pin 2 & 3 with throttle closed .5K ohms, 4.0K WOT, and when opened slowly the resistance should increase smoothly from .5K to 4.0 ohms...The Throttle Switch when measured between pin 5 & 6 @ closed throttle there should be continuity and "NO" continuity @ WOT....
I bought the newer updated TPS. I will install it over the weekend. Beck/Arnley 158-0709. $55 from Rock Auto. Made in Japan and is the reboxed OEM TPS for the 97+ 4th gen.
Beck/Arnley included a set of screws for the TPS, but I'm not going to use them, as I'm sticking with the hex-head Hillman screws I already put on. The Hillmans are slightly longer than the OEM screws.
codes P0120, P0731/P0732/P0733, P1705, common codes to happen when the TPS is no good, and TPS failure is very common on these cars, and my car stalled all the time before I replaced it, and now it never stalls with the new TPS, and has not stalled once since replacing the TPS.
The CEL does come on occasionally, but not nearly as often as it used to come on. But it does still throw the codes, but no CEL most of the time.
The new TPS has not stalled, and the rpm drop is less common, but does still occur with the new TPS, and I have gotten codes P0120 and P073x (but no P1705 since installing the new TPS)
The transmissions on these cars are relatively bulletproof, plus it's had regular fluid changes, and the ATF is still nice and red like it should be.
Good to know - I've (accidentally) ran without a TPS connected at all which causes the car to behave differently than you had described.
07-30-2017, 07:52 AM
