Idler pulley nut got rounded - what thread size to replace?
08-07-2017, 12:30 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 30
Idler pulley nut got rounded - what thread size to replace?
Background:
I spilled coolant all over the drive belts and alternator when replacing the radiator and thermostat. The belts squealed for a few days, and then the battery started frequently dying. The voltage at the battery (new Exide 24FX) reads the same whether the car is off or on. So, I went to remove the alternator belt to remove the alternator, and the idler pulley nut got rounded.
Does anybody know what what the specifications of this nut are? Im going to go to a mechanic and see if he can cut it off and replace it for me.
FSM-MA10 doesn't mention much about the nut.
Pic related.
I spilled coolant all over the drive belts and alternator when replacing the radiator and thermostat. The belts squealed for a few days, and then the battery started frequently dying. The voltage at the battery (new Exide 24FX) reads the same whether the car is off or on. So, I went to remove the alternator belt to remove the alternator, and the idler pulley nut got rounded.
Does anybody know what what the specifications of this nut are? Im going to go to a mechanic and see if he can cut it off and replace it for me.
FSM-MA10 doesn't mention much about the nut.
Pic related.
Last edited by uFluidics; 08-07-2017 at 12:33 PM.
08-07-2017, 04:41 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Jersey
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Found this over in the 6th gen threads:
https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...read-size.html
I'll assume this is the right info for now; worst case, I'll use a nut I have from my old rear struts.
Just replaced one last week. It is an M10-1.25 flat faced flange nut. You won't find it at your local hardware store but you should be able to get one from a decent auto store, I found mine at Canadian Tire and I think it was a pack of 4.
If it's rounded, get yourself a 14mm Grip-Tite wrench and save yourself considerable frustration, you're not getting a socket in there...
If it's rounded, get yourself a 14mm Grip-Tite wrench and save yourself considerable frustration, you're not getting a socket in there...
I'll assume this is the right info for now; worst case, I'll use a nut I have from my old rear struts.
08-07-2017, 07:02 PM
#3
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,566
This is what I bought for exactly that bolt (and the P/S lock bolt as well):
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-12...FVcMNwodIQ4Fww
Hope this helps!
And it might be a good idea if you get it loose to take off the whole assembly and freshen it up for many more years of reliable service. It shouldn't be hard. It's a simple mechanism.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-12...FVcMNwodIQ4Fww
Hope this helps!
And it might be a good idea if you get it loose to take off the whole assembly and freshen it up for many more years of reliable service. It shouldn't be hard. It's a simple mechanism.
Last edited by KP11520; 08-07-2017 at 07:04 PM.
08-11-2017, 08:58 AM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 30
I ended up going to AutoZone and getting a set of the Duralast Grip Drive wrenches to tackle the nut. Put a pvc pipe on top of it for leverage and it came loose very easily. Replaced it with a M10x1.25 Flange Nut (I picked up a set of 4 at Pepboys).
The AC belt still squeals loudly on start-up, and it's already pretty tight. I might have to take the belt off and clean the pulleys (maybe even refresh/replace the idler pulley as suggested).
KP, I'm going to buy that tool you mentioned, because I had zero luck getting the PS belt off.
The AC belt still squeals loudly on start-up, and it's already pretty tight. I might have to take the belt off and clean the pulleys (maybe even refresh/replace the idler pulley as suggested).
KP, I'm going to buy that tool you mentioned, because I had zero luck getting the PS belt off.
Last edited by uFluidics; 08-11-2017 at 09:02 AM.
08-11-2017, 12:04 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,566
Yeah, I couldn't budge mine either. It's too tight and on an angle to use a ratchet. That wrench made it easy. I did extend it with a 3/4" ID copper pipe with the end slightly hammered to an oval shape.
Good luck with that and replace both belts and your front seal while you're in there that deep.
Good luck with that and replace both belts and your front seal while you're in there that deep.
