Looking at buying this for ~$1300, but it’s high mileage.
1999 Nissan Maxima SE Limited Edition

 

The 1999 has a lot more pollution controls on it than the 96 did. If you are doing the work yourself and the engine you are putting in is not a 99 engine, you will have to use the pollution sensors and stuff from the 99 engine.

Being a high mileage car, other things that will need to be serviced eventually are suspension parts such as wheel bearings, strut bearings. See if any of these things have been done, as well as stuff like tie rod ends, ball joints, etc.

 

^^ +1

Lots of pros and cons in this one. It does indeed look like a well-maintained vehicle.

Around here a nice 5 MT will bring $700 more than an automatic. That is IF you can find one.

Get ready to be in for around $2,000 in parts to bring back to top condition.

As Dennis pointed out, it will need a suspension rework. Unless the previous owner has already replaced these items, you will see the following repairs soon for a 300,000 engine.

1) Gaskets and O-Rings

2) Clutch Kit

3) Rear Main Seal (with a clutch kit)

4) Front Main Seal (possibly Front Crank Pulley)

5) Timing Chain Tensioner

6) Water Pump/Seal

7) Injector Service (O-rings and Screens)

8) EGR Valve Service and possible replacement

9) Radiator

10) Alternator

11) Belts

12) Hoses

You can have a lot of fun replacing these items and restoring the car.

 

 

o, and it's 1,700.00, not 1,300.00, unless you already talked to the seller and got the price knocked down. and, it's craig's list, i already don't trust it.

 

Agree. Unless the driver weighed less than 100 lbs, the perf leather driver seat and mileage don't square. Also, I don't see any peeling clear coat so it must have been garaged.

Could they have moved in seats from a wrecked lower mileage SEL sometime in the past?

If you do buy the car, take one of the keys to Home Depot or Ace Hardware and get a duplicate chip key made. Use the duplicate for daily driving. If you lose your only original chip key or the key fails to work, it can be expensive to get the keys and security system reset.

 

 

Looks like a great buy. I would buy it.

 

if you talked him down to 1,300.00, then i'd say get it. at that mileage that's a decent car for a one owner. i'd keep the 96 motor for a swap later on when the current engine starts to leak and have other issues, no need to break your back if the current motor is running good.

 

Ochrerare01 - looks like a good buy as others have said.

What is your plan to address the issues mentioned in the inspection report? Will you attempt to reseal yourself with the engine in the car, yourself after pulling the motor out - or pay someone else to do it?

Gotta fix those leaks before fixing the suspension otherwise the leaks will just eat it up again. That work is time consuming = expensive.

 

 

Hmm. Maybe it'd be easier if we knew what work the Service Records describe as having already been performed - and how long ago. Does the engine leak oil now? How much, and from where? Not to split hairs over a $1300 car - but just so you know what you're getting into.

For example - has it ever had a new water pump? That would mean the front timing cover and UOP (?) gaskets have been replaced. Those are difficult (not impossible) to replace with the motor still in the car.

When I say "motor out of the car" I only mean removing and re-installing to replace gaskets and such - not "changing motors", or moving away from "the original engine". If you have access to a lift that'd be the best way to go - knock it all out at once.

My 118k '98 i30 would leak a quart of oil a week (from the O-ring between the UOP and the block) if it was driven every day. The UOP gasket has never been replaced.

 

 

 

meet him in the middle and give him 1,400.00. i mean, i think it's worth the 1,500.00 to be honest, so, if he doesn't budge, give him the 1,500.00 and ask if when you do the title transfer can he say he sold it to you for 750.00. that'll save you a little money and he still gets his asking price.