reallywildstuff

my pilot took the car to church (no issues) then was on the way to the next port of call when the car "suddenly started shaking with a lot of exhaust". They brought it back to the barn instead of soldiering on (thank God).

WTF is wrong with this car?

It was difficult to start - had to floor it to get it running. Running like a turd because its missing (?). Rev it up, shakes badly (missing), revs come down down down below 400, maybe it dies, maybe it comes back to idle.

Video of the exhaust here (catalyst-smelling puffs on smoke in time):



i've tried to keep this car up (new fuel pump, six new coils, JECS MAF clean no debris in the filter). It was running pretty good - except of course for the massive oil leak above the oil pressure sender (oil level is religiously maintained)

The foremost maintenance item that has NOT been done is: "rebuild injectors". Could a failed pintle cap be causing this issue ?

Advice appreciated.

Rit

iTrader: (3)

White exhaust is usually from burning anti-freeze, and a good way for anti-freeze to get into the engine is from a blown head gasket. Anti-freeze is very abrasive in the cylinders, so I would not run it very much until you are sure what the problem is, and fixed - if it is a bad head gasket. You can check cylinder compression to explore further.

reallywildstuff

Thank you.

The exhaust doesn't smell like antifreeze...

JvG

This is how an injector with a bad pintil cap acts.

Or if the fuel pressure regulator goes bad.

Remove the vaccuum hose to the fpr. Is there gas in it?

The hard to start is because there is a fuel pressure leak.

These cars commonly have injector issues at this age. Blown head gaskets are seldom a problem unless the cooling system has not been maintained.

maximaxi

What kind of coils did you get? Is the CEL on? Did you check the codes?

You probably do need fuel injectors. If you do, get Beck/Arnley, Bosch, or Hitachi injectors. All are the reboxed actual OE injectors. They do not come with O-rings, so you will need to buy them separately. Get the Beck/Arnley O-rings. Again, these are the actual OE O-rings. You will need a package for each injector, so if you replace all 6 injectors, you will need 6 packages of O-rings.

The screws will strip, so you will need to replace them. The Hillman #4402 screws are popular replacement screws for the injectors.

reallywildstuff

I will check the FPR. It was replaced alongside the fuel pump.

They were the expensive kind of coils (NGK - I wrote a post about it here). No codes attendant with this issue. Intermittent codes for a long while now re: "O2 sensor" (all three also new) that prevent the ECU from reporting "Ready" for emissions test.

"My BIL's best friend" works for Injector RX in Sugarland, TX. I had thought I would run them down there for rebuild just on general principle...I wonder if I will need to purchase extra O-rings anyhow...?

I'm gonna want to replace the aft valve cover (so, both) when I do this, aren't I? What brand should I get of those?

Thanks

maximaxi

If you get your injectors to be rebuilt, they will replace the O-rings during the rebuild, so you would not have to purchase them yourself.

For the valve cover gasket, get either Mahle/Victor Reinz or Beck/Arnley. You will also want a new plenum gasket. Get the Beck/Arnley plenum gasket. It may also be worth your while to clean out the EGR guide tube, which is easier to do with the intake off.

reallywildstuff

Thank you. I had previously done the EGR guide tube as well.

JvG

I had my injectors rebuilt by Injector RX.
Same company.

They did a great job. Very fast turn around times.
​​​​​​
They provide all the o rings.

CS_AR

I vote for an injector service. Sooner or later the o-rings and pintle caps go out and the leaks start.

JvG

In my humble opinion, anyone who wants to drive these cars for a few years might as well replace or service all of the injectors as soon as possible.
Might as well work in the valve covers, the egr system, and look ay the knock sensor too.
Because all of these items WILL fail soon.

Might as well accept that fact, and deal with it at your convenience. Because if you dont, you will have to do it at the cars convience.

​​​​

KP11520

Thank you Gentlemen!


My education is constantly ongoing thanks to you!


@209K it's time the Fuel Injectors get renewed and everything associated, brought back to top functioning.

reallywildstuff

I'm buying parts from Rock Auto. Do I need anything else?

So far I have all Beck Arnley:

0347808 - plenum gasket
0361579 - valve cover

I replaced the TB gasket recently (and you don't even have to separate it at all, right?) and I am not going to remove the lower intake...so I don't need the bigger kit #0376118, right?

Re: Screws - these, right? I need Qty: 12 - right ?


EGR tube and knock sensor = already done within last 10k.

Will I need a new EGR guide tube gasket ?

JvG

You will need to disturb or move the egr -to-uim tube in oEder to remove the uim. So yes, you need both gaskets.

reallywildstuff

Im sorry JeffVanGundy I can't keep up. You're talking about the top and bottom of the EGR guide tube, correct? Do you have the part numbers ?

reallywildstuff

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...g-dummies.html

Lower EGR guide tube gasket part # 14722-38u02
Upper EGR guide tube gasket part # 14722-38u01

maximaxi

Those are the correct screws. You do need 12 screws for all 6 injectors.

Yes, get the EGR guide tube gasket. You might as well replace it since you're taking it off again. It's only a few dollars, and you might lose it during the whole process.

reallywildstuff

I ended up ordering M5-0.8x20mm (longer) screws + M5 lock washers from Home Depot, based on this post - I hope they'll be OK

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-tailpipe.html

reallywildstuff

I got the upper plenum off.

I can now see lots of parts that will need replacing that I've previously only read about. I will keep looking for Part Numbers for these until I find them all:

- blow by hose - Nissan 11826 ?

- PCV hose - Nissan 11826+A + 2x 11826EA ?

- forward VC to airbox - Nissan 11823 + 2x 11823E ?

- final hose in blow by assembly Nissan 11826+B + 2x 11826EA ?

- the PCV valve (upper left hand corner, rear valve cover) came apart when I went to remove the hose, it had blue plastic and a spring on the inside - Standard Motor V332 ?

- valve cover grommets for above - Beck Arnley 0396457 ?

- rubber fuel hose under plenum between front and back fuel rails - is this Nissan 16441MB (L=110) + 2x 17524E ?

- rubber fuel hose inlet side - is this Nissan 16441 MA (L=110) + 2x 17524E ?

- coolant hose on lower back of upper plenum - is this Nissan 14056NB and/or 14056NA + 4x 14056A ?

- Fuel Injector Insulator Kit - is this Fel Pro ES71045 ?

any part numbers, threads, or additional parts suggestions appreciated

FYI orderinfintiparts.com is offline at this moment...

maximaxi

You do not need the official Nissan hoses. I brought my old hoses to Advance Auto, and they cut me generic hoses of the same size from a giant roll. I think it's something like $2-3 a foot.

The grommets are already included with the valve cover gasket.

JvG

I replaced all my coolant hoses with ones made by Gates. Gates has a website which you can use to find Gates part numbers for every hose.

Once I knew the parts numbers, I went to the Amazon website. The hoses cost about 80 bucks a few years ago.

reallywildstuff

I think the BeckArnley 0361579 includes the spark plug seals and the bolt grommets.

But I was instead talking about (for example) the grommet that receives the PCV valve.

maximaxi

Sorry, I misunderstood.

Here is the OEM PCV grommet for $5

reallywildstuff

Filing the tip off a #2 Phillips works -Super-

The 20mm cap screws I bought are "too long". Maybe the half of them would cinch down without touching the rail - but it'd be like zero clearance and I'm not down with that.

Planet Houston HD and Lowes don't stock these. I have ordered again from HD delivered to store.

reallywildstuff

Got the injectors out. 4 pintle caps and 6 o-rings in hand. 1 Pintle cap (#3) unaccounted for, and one fell down #2. Oh well - right?

The lower plenum is "right there for the taking", and everything around it is filthy. Am I making a mistake by NOT replacing that gasket (along with valve covers) at this time? Possible to screw something up with that that otherwise wouldn't be? I have to order more parts anyways...

I started poking around and discovered "phenolic spacers". Is that something I want to consider fo this daily driver?

maximaxi

Yes, you are making a mistake by NOT replacing the plenum gasket. Especially if you still have to order other parts anyway.

You know how big of a job it is just to get as far as you have regarding pulling the intake. So you might as well replace it.

JvG

The pintil cap for #3 might have caused the smoking condition.

Regarding the cap which you said fell into the engine, I'd say that it would get sucked through an intake valve. Since it's plastic, it will burn without casing issues.

I was concerned about dropping stuff into the lower intake manifold. So I taped it over while I was doing all the side projects which should be done at this time.

reallywildstuff

EDIT: Next day, yeah still can't figure out how to present a columned list of things in a post. "Increase Indent" doesn't do it.

I compiled the list below of parts that I've already ordered so that others may benefit. All of this in addition to the injector rebuild. The items marked "DISCONTINUED" include:

two pieces of fuel hose - probably easy to size
crankcase ventilation hose - what size to buy ?

I could have/should have bought the bigger Beck Arnley UIM and LIM gasket set to begin with - this would have been one part number (not shown here) and included a TB gasket

This forum doesn't do .csv or "tabs" worth a flip - so all the stuff below runs together badly, sorry.

--------------------------
On Hand
TB Gasket
IACV Gasket

Home Depot
Hillman 4402 bolts
Hillman M5 lock washers

RockAuto

BECK ARNLEY 376018 intake manifold gaskets same as 1403538U00
STANDARD V332 PCV valve
GATES 28474 heater hose / "pipe 1 to pipe 3 cut to fit" ??
GATES 18262 TB to intake manifold same as 14056NA
GATES 19755 heater hose outlet / "heater to tee-1" same as 9241040U00
BECK ARNLEY 0347808 plenum gasket
BECK ARNLEY 0361579 valve cover
MAHLE G31677 tube to TB same as 14722-38U02
MAHLE G31678 tube to plenum same as 14719-38U01



InfinitPartsDeal
Crankcase Ventilation
11826+B hardline to intake 1182631U12 DISCONTINUED
11826+A pcv to hardline 1182631U13
Qty: 4 11823EA clamps for above Package of Qty: 10 16439-42L0B superseded from 16439-42L00 ON ORDER
11823 hose forward VC to airbox 1182331U00
Qty: 2 11823E clamps for forward vc to airbox 16439-10B0A superseded from 16439-V5001
11826 between valve covers - no clamps used 11826-31U0A superseded from 11826-31U00
15255 oil fill cap 15255-1P103
11810C PCV grommet 11812-41B00

Coolant Hoses
14056NB coolant loop behind 1405631U03 ON ORDER
14056NA tb to intake coolant 14056-31U05
14056NC another hose 1405631U04
14056N 1405631U01
14055 1405531U00
Qty: 8 14056 clamps 1643966S00
Qty: 2 21069F clamps for 14055 1643926E0A
Qty: 2 21409 O-Rings 21049-ZL80A superseded from 21049-31U00 ON ORDER

FUEL HOSES
16441MB in between fuel rails 16441-31U02 DISCONTINUED
16441MA supply 16441-31U03
16441M return MuliSuperSession superseded from 01995-00021 DISCONTINUED
Qty: 6 17524E clamps 16439-16E00
Qty: 4 17520J spacer 17522-10V00 ON ORDER
Qty: 6 16603G insulator - injector 16636-72P00 ON ORDER

reallywildstuff

I ended up with bulk:

Gates 4219BF 5/16" fuel injection hose, for the Discontinued pieces between the fuel rails and downstream of the FPR

and

Gates 4219XL 3/8" Fuel line PVC/EEC, for the Discontinued crankcase ventilation piece

reallywildstuff

CS_AR

Congratulations

KP11520

Actually..... THANK YOU for providing fresh and easy to follow tracks with a parts list, for those of us who are right behind you!


Enjoy the ride!

JvG

Congratulations!

One thought.....

You mentioned that the crank case ventilation system was not operational. This means that the crankcase was under pressure from blow by past the piston rings. The pressure would force it's way past the seals.

Is possible that the leaks might not be as bad now.

reallywildstuff

Pictures for your amusement:


Before1

Before2

20 years in the hole

front bank before

front bank after

lots of stuff








the scene of the crime

pile of dirt

all the parts replaced

JoshG

This is exactly what im experiencing.. Same smoke and beat rhythm what fixed the issue? Mine smell's like strong fuel.

CS_AR

CONGRATULATIONS! Great job! Thank you for the parts list. That will come in handy for many members.

reallywildstuff