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I removed the glove box and I can see the intake doors/arm/motor "actuator". They "don't move at all" when RECIRC is selected, nor during Step 3 of the Self Diagnosis procedure (reporting codes 38 & 39).
The motor looks like its secured with four screws taking a 7mm wrench. I can get my huge hand in there and touch all four screws - but that's not the same as swinging a ratchet on them. Or even a small crescent...
Appreciate any advice about how to actually affect this repair.
I see DennisMik working hard 7 years ago (below) - is his post #8 really the air intake motor I'm interested in? Is removing the dash really the only option?
from that 2011 post, I gather that DennisMik removed the air bag along with the dash proper. Yet mention is still made of a hacksaw blade being used for <something>...
In my thread, I was trying to replace the air mix door motor that sits above the car's ECU. The air mix door is what controls the temperature of the air that blows into the cabin.
reallywildstuff is referring to the air recirculate door motor that Nissan uses a different name for. I never had to replace one of these motors so I can't be 100% sure of how you do it, but I think you can take it off if you remove the glove box. You should use a 1/4" socket for tight places like this. You will probably need a u-joint and a couple of extensions.
Suggestion for re-assembly. Replace the Phillips head screws with hex head. Much easier to work with.
In my thread, I was trying to replace the air mix door motor that sits above the car's ECU. The air mix door is what controls the temperature of the air that blows into the cabin.
reallywildstuff is referring to the air recirculate door motor that Nissan uses a different name for. I never had to replace one of these motors so I can't be 100% sure of how you do it, but I think you can take it off if you remove the glove box. You should use a 1/4" socket for tight places like this. You will probably need a u-joint and a couple of extensions.
Suggestion for re-assembly. Replace the Phillips head screws with hex head. Much easier to work with.
I get it. Later on you were probably pissed to figure out that you can remove the air mix door by first removing the ECU - right?
PS the only reason I know anything about the ECU/motor issue at all is because of your very posts
Last edited by reallywildstuff; 08-15-2018 at 07:53 AM.
Reason: I sounded like an assh*le
I get it. Later on you were probably pissed to figure out that you can remove the air mix door by first removing the ECU - right?
Once I figured out I had to replace the air mix door motor, it looked like a fairly easy job once the ECU was removed. The only problem was that I couldn't get the ECU out. I asked how to do that here on the org and never got an answer. I kept trying to remove it, but no luck, so that's when I thought that removing the dash would be almost the same. That turned out to be bad thinking. Educational but bad thinking. Access to the motor screws was no different whether the dash was in or out. Sometime you live life, sometimes life kicks you in the butt.
Once I figured out I had to replace the air mix door motor, it looked like a fairly easy job once the ECU was removed. The only problem was that I couldn't get the ECU out. I asked how to do that here on the org and never got an answer. I kept trying to remove it, but no luck, so that's when I thought that removing the dash would be almost the same. That turned out to be bad thinking. Educational but bad thinking. Access to the motor screws was no different whether the dash was in or out. Sometime you live life, sometimes life kicks you in the butt.
Well gonna give my 2 cents. I have taken and or cut apart a 4th gen 100%
I know them too well. best way to take out ECU's 95-03 is to take out the radio ,climate area. Then any BCM or trans ECU . then i take the 2 bolts out with extensions . I can have a radio out in a few minutes,and or ECU.
INFINITI I30 1997-1999 NISSAN ALTIMA 2002-2006 NISSAN MAXIMA 1998-2008
If your ECU is held into place with JIS (phillips looking) screws, then it helps to use a JIS driver in an offset ratchet or file down a phillips to make your own.
Here's a diagram that will help. Looks like glove box removal is your best bet. Below is a video that shows how to remove the glove box (and other things)
in that video the guy is taking the evaporator box totally out of the car. I do NOT want to do that.
Does anyone know for certain whether taking the air bag out will facilitate easier replacement of the recirculate door motor (on top and to the left of the evap box)?
I realize there are no guarantees in life - I'm just looking for a hint. It's already on the back end of summer now and I wish I'd done this sooner - couldn't while I was driving it every day though. The temp in the center vent on "3 blades fan speed" is consistently 46 degrees less than "Ambient" - but there's a big difference between "Recirculate" and "Ambient" in Houston, TX.
I was looking at the 97 FSM, section HA. On page 113 is a drawing of the intake door motor. But an even better drawing is the one for the blower motor on page 112 that shows the relative positioning of the intake door motor. I no longer have the 97 Max, so I can't look at an actual car.
If you remove the glove box, I think you will see it. Whether you can touch it, I don't know.
I’m making a plan to finally get this done...BEFORE summer this time. I’ll remove the glovebox, maybe the air bag too. I’m pushing really positive waves about getting it done without removing the dash.
In the meantime - The blower motor has started to make more of a “clicking” noise than I find acceptable, especially at speeds less than “4 blades”. I think I’d like to replace the 22-year old blower motor at the same time I replace the recirculate motor.
Is there anything I’m missing besides “buy the motor and install it”? I figure probably “yes” but I’d love to hear your thoughts first.
The blower motor is almost simple. You don't need to remove the dash or airbag, just the glove box, However, once you get the blower motor pulled out of its opening, it won't come out because it is too big to drop down past the bottom re-enforcement bar for the glove box. You may be able to force it out, but if you can't, remove the kick panel and you will see a bolt that holds the end of that bar in place.
08-12-2018, 05:07 PM
