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I have not had to chase a leak. I have pulled headliners and sun roof assemblies.
You might have luck removing just enough to get a peek above the head liner. Remove the A pillar, grab handle, sun visors, and map light.
What I can't figure out is if the sun visor clips can be removed without breaking them.
To get it out of the car I may have gone over board with removing stuff...
Take out all the seats, rubber door trim, A, B, C pillars, grab handles, sun visors, and lighting. The headliner has some funky clips, some are like industrial hook and loop others are metal which hook in at a certain angle.
There was just enough room to pull it out a rear door.
You old enough to remember Dr Smith on the original Lost in Space series?
Ohhhh The Pain!
Thank you as always! Despite the pain. LOL
Originally Posted by JSutter
I have not had to chase a leak. I have pulled headliners and sun roof assemblies.
You might have luck removing just enough to get a peek above the head liner. Remove the A pillar, grab handle, sun visors, and map light.
What I can't figure out is if the sun visor clips can be removed without breaking them.
To get it out of the car I may have gone over board with removing stuff...
Take out all the seats, rubber door trim, A, B, C pillars, grab handles, sun visors, and lighting. The headliner has some funky clips, some are like industrial hook and loop others are metal which hook in at a certain angle.
There was just enough room to pull it out a rear door.
If you still have a leak, the tube might have clogged from above or below.
However, it's also possible that salt spray found its way through the steel tube which I assume is welded to the roof. Rust-through at that location would cause a leak. So give that area a look see while you areally exploring. Possibly some JB Weld and some paint might last quite a while.
I like the Dr Smith refference.
I had to replace the rear valve cover gasket recently.
I'm 6'3. Our car's engine in quite low. So Oh The Pain in my back muscles.
I'm thinking along the lines of somehow rust rot. As I poured a liter of water into the rain gutter channel on the passenger side, it moved out quickly (Front drain tube wide open fast) and I was quickly standing in most of it, less what dripped on the mat.
I don't see screws for the A Pillar plastic cover. Can I legally use dynamite? LOL Please Please Please!
About your back.... I know this woman who has really STRONG hands as she's in NICE shape: A tall guy, a rear valve cover gasket success and a happy ending! LOL
Originally Posted by JvG
If you still have a leak, the tube might have clogged from above or below.
However, it's also possible that salt spray found its way through the steel tube which I assume is welded to the roof. Rust-through at that location would cause a leak. So give that area a look see while you areally exploring. Possibly some JB Weld and some paint might last quite a while.
I like the Dr Smith refference.
I had to replace the rear valve cover gasket recently.
I'm 6'3. Our car's engine in quite low. So Oh The Pain in my back muscles.
So after JSutter's reality dose, I decided to Just do it! Sounds like a good idea for a sneaker commercial. Or a good time with someone attractive. Nuff said! (JvG)
Even though JS said to pull the seats and all 4 door rubber trim seals, I left them alone, removed everything and only slid the center pillars down far enough to not impede lowering the headliner. This headliner IMO was done brilliantly and metal backed. Only damage was one leg on the sun-visor holder clip, but the break was past the hook area that the screw will spread, so it should stay in like it was. (96409-15U02) Looks like Infinity might have some of their version at a dealer or two. Just not sure if it's the same color as our's. Cross that bridge when I get there. LOL
So.... This is what took 2+ hours to pull the headliner to find:
Thank you JS!
It wasn't going to fix itself ever and I wasn't happy with the musty smell of WET! SS hose clamps on all 4. Not getting hosed (literally) like this again....EVER!
Last edited by KP11520; 05-17-2019 at 07:25 AM.
Reason: Add Picture
and I'm thinking about applying it to the underside of the roof sheet metal where there's enough clearance (80 mils thick). Nothing like luxury car quiet in a rattle trap LOL
I'm glad you didn't go removing everything. I only did that to dye my liner and do some weight reduction but I digress.
That will be after wrapping up from the top down. I have to replace the carpet. Gaping hole on driver's floor. And I'll put the Noico sound deadening under as well.
Now if I could only reupholster everything to BETTER than new with more luxury support... and ready for this..... supple leather. LOL I'll fix the drivers seat belt retraction setup while there as well.
I have a bunch of this https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadeni...gateway&sr=8-3 and I'm thinking about applying it to the underside of the roof sheet metal where there's enough clearance (80 mils thick). Nothing like luxury car quiet in a rattle trap LOL
Any of you guys do this?
AND, while I'm up there, anybody ever lube the motor and linkage? Mine squeals when it's opened up or down when it can't go any further.And it seems the glass is lower than the roof slightly when closed fully.
AND, while I'm up there, anybody ever lube the motor and linkage? Mine squeals when it's opened up or down when it can't go any further.And it seems the glass is lower than the roof slightly when closed fully.
I'm all ears. Kinda like SETI.
One might clean off the old nasty grease and imbedded grit from the mechanism.
Replace with a proper grease.
I'd use white lithim grease. But I'll also claim ignorance regarding what the official greasee might be.
One might clean off the old nasty grease and imbedded grit from the mechanism.
Replace with a proper grease.
I'd use white lithim grease. But I'll also claim ignorance regarding what the official greasee might be.
Looks like I'm going to have to drop the whole thing to have access toall the places is question. The grease that I can see looks more like a dark honey wheel bearing type grease, but dirty. But if I do, I can find out why the back of the moon roof seems to be somewhere around an 1/8" lower than the front. More fun and games, especially in Spring (rain) and maybe waiting for parts. I'm definitely going to have to refresh where they used contact cement to affix the headliner. Another BIG little job! LOL
Below is the drain hoses with CLAMPS. How could they leave these out? Underkill!
Remove the black plastic trim on the shorts sides of the glass. They have plastic phillips screw fasteners. You'll see how the glass mounts, there may be shims in there already, just add more.
Remove the black plastic trim on the shorts sides of the glass. They have plastic phillips screw fasteners. You'll see how the glass mounts, there may be shims in there already, just add more.
So I investigated what JSutter was referring to about shims on the sun/moonroof. It seems the back drops a bit eventually and the car/wind noise increases as a result.
Here's a post from another site but for 5th Gens and is 100% applicable to our 4th Gens. Same shim too which are still available @ $7.50 each plus shipping.Used to be .65 cents.
05-15-2019, 02:24 PM
